Anyone have a summary of removing dash to replace radio?

Hi Nico,
If you have a factory camera you will need both as the connect 2 does not “talk fluently” to the canbus controller which in turn gives the rear camera a mind of its own coming on and staying on or not come on at all erratically.
The Pioneer unican addresses this but does not have a speed sensor so your sat nav positioning will not be accurate so you simply just wire up the speed sensor connections of the connect 2 canbus.
You need the connect 2 for the plug and play connectors though.

I hope that makes sense.
Also i fitted a pioneer bc8 camera for the front view DON’T YOU BUY ONE they are of dubious quality and cannot be switched to show lines or image reversal, I swapped it out with a cheapo Chinese one superior image and quality, can show lines and be reversed image to show normal view for the front camera- brilliant it also (totally by chance) looks identical to the front “bullet” parking sensors, i will upload a picture tomorrow morning.

Cheers Andrew

 

Andrew... this is all so very helpful and I am extremely grateful!

So pleased you mentioned the camera's, I was going to order one this evening for the rear only! Would you be willing to share the details of the Chinese version you found. Could this Chinese one also be used on the rear?

Thanks again for being such a helpful enthusiast!

 

HI Nico,
Here you go, it can be used for both front and rear amazing picture quality - knocks the spots of the Pioneer unit and less than a 1/4 of the price! Image Unavailable, Please Login
I also fitted a box of tricks that turns the front camera on automatically on starting the engine for 5 seconds so you can see the very front of the car, when you select reverse the camera as usual shows the rear view for as long as reverse is selected but when you engage 1st gear the front camera automatically activates for 5 seconds great when parking up as the moment you select reverse it switches view to rear then the front for five seconds before returning back to what ever State your stereo was previously (On ,off, playing music, apple car play etc,)

Cheers Andrew

 

Hi Andrew, This is so useful! Thanks again for your support.

I am very nearly done now with my install, the only wiring issue I am having is the fact the pioneer unit will not turn off / on with ignition. It is constantly powered on once all plugged in and connected. I know I am pushing my luck here, but don't suppose you came across this issue at all?

 

Hi Nico
Easy fix mate, you have crossed the switched live and constant live feeds simply revers the wires, FYI i took my constant live feed from the hazard warning switch
Cheers Andrew

 

Thanks for the rapid reply! I did try switching the red and yellow bullet connectors, but the unit wouldn't power up properly. It was pulsing on / off and would not stay on long enough to get passed the loading screen?

It seems both my yellow and red (from the connect2 box) are supplying power constantly? Really odd!

Did you come across the 'Phantom Power' connector? Mine is not being used now, I am going to check if there is a switched live in there?

 

As Andrew says there are usually two power leads in the harness ... one is switched and the other is constant, for the station memory, etc.

However, the unit retains power for a few minutes after you shut the car off, or at least it does on the California T, you can see the volume knob glowing for a few minutes. Perhaps that's why the Pioneer is staying on after you take the key out.

 

You need to source The constant live and a switched live (ignition key activated) remember that the switched live stays live until you open the door (drivers) or after 5 minutes Without opening the door.

 

Hi Nico
It would be a very bad idea to start probing the phantom lead it could mess up the canbus module (£1325 to replace) it is supplying data only to the vga display

Cheers Andrew

 

Guys...thank you both for these really sensible suggestions. This is really embarrassing to admit so please go easy on me... I was doing ALL this from the passenger seat! I don't even know why? It was just the closest door to my garage!

I am now wondering if all this would have been cured by opening and closing the drivers door as Andrew has mentioned!

What a plonker! Let me try again in the morning and report back my findings! I'd be delighted if by opening the drivers door as if to exit the car, this would be the signal needed to kill power to the radio!

Thanks again to you both for highlighting my stupidity!

 

Hi Nico,
No such thing as being stupid if you are not aware mate, its a learning curve, the only problem is with this suck it and see investigating it can get very expensive very quickly as Ferrari are demons on parts prices.
GOLDEN RULE. IF NOT SURE, ALWAYS ASK BEFORE HAVING A GO.

Cheers Andrew

 

That's very kind, and such wise words. I am truly grateful! Standby for an update tomorrow!

Where are you based Andrew, I'd love a proper look around your car, there are some really great things you've done from the pics I have seen!

 

Hi Nico,
Fingers crossed that everything is good and operator error is the culprit
I am based for the most part in Cheshire at the moment due to the Covid outbreak, i reside in Portugal and Spain in normal times commuting Into the uk every week or so, once the travel restrictions are lifted i will be driving my California back home .

Cheers Andrew

 

What a great lifestyle!

Just a quick update for anyone following this post... I tried again today (this time from the drivers seat) and sadly it didn't actually make any difference.

It would appear my problem is I do not have a switched live feed with ignition. Well, if I do... I cannot find it! I tested every pin in the plug for the original radio, with nothing else plugged into it... I could only find the main yellow power. No switched ignition, certainly not 12v. It is driving me mad!

Andrew, you said you use the hazard switch for 'constant live' . You didn't happen to mean 'switched live' did you?

 

Hi Nico,
No the live from the hazards is constant, the other live appears to be constant as in it stays on when the ignition switch is turned off BUT it does go dead after 5 minutes of being turned off OR it immediately goes dead when the drivers door is opened.
Your so close to sorting this, i can feel your frustration, perseverance will ultimately pay off

 

Ha ha! Thats for the encouragement!

Maybe tomorrow I will take the keys out and leave it for 5 mins, see if it does turn off... if it does... this still doesn't seem like a sensible option, it means the radio would still be playing whilst the car is unattended for up to 5 mins?

I wonder if this is an internal setting that can be adjusted if plugged into a proper Ferrari diagnostic system?

On another note, I am so impressed by the Connect2 modules and all the other units you kindly recommended! Other than this live issue, it really is plug and play! Your research has paid off massively for all us other owners!

My back up plan is a 'piggy back fuse' on something that is a switched ignition live, i'm thinking cigarette lighter!

Thanks again for all the help Andrew.

 

Hi Nico,
If wired right the radio will shut off when you open the drivers door to exit.
I personally wouldn’t bother with checking an internal setting, If that’s a possibility then Ferrari will charge you through the nose for the privilege, the cigarette lighter is a good choice as i used this to power my wireless charger, the center console dial and the footwell mood Lights.

 

If you've powered all this, should be plenty of current for the head unit too?

Can you remember where this fuse is located? Drivers side by OBD? Passenger footwell or centre console on transmission tunnel? There are so many!

 

You will not have switched power coming from the OEM harness. Radio on an off on the OEM unit is triggered by a message on the CAN bus. Either the unican or connect2 box should decode the message of the bus and provide that switched power. Note that the switched power is just a signal. The main power draw to the radio is through the permanent supply. Unfortunately the Unican module I got seems faulty (it will not sync) and I'm still waiting on the connect2 box. I think if that doesn't work, I'll resort to trying to find switched power from the fuse box.

 

Hi Nico,
The cigarette lighter is rated at 15 amps so has plenty of spare juice to power the accessories I have fitted (3.4A combined).
As you only need a switched live then it will perform the task with no problem as the actual stereo will not be drawing any current.
I ran a wire to the armrest and “ pig tailed” directly into the connector as not to cause damage to the wire.
Cheers Andrew

 

This actually makes a lot of sense, and explains why I couldn't find a 'switched live'

Thanks for the explaination! Perhaps it is an issue with the connect2 module! I've email the company I bought it from, lets see if they can advise accordingly...

 

Hi Nico,
You Clearly have a gremlin, after a long think about what your experiencing (i had a gremlin to but that was the dammed camera not following canbus protocol remedied by fitting the unican) i would put the switched live feed from the cigar lighter (2minute disassembly job) and this will do the trick as the only thing you need the connect 2 canbus to achieve is steering wheel button control.
Tell us how you got on.
Cheers Andrew

 

My Connect 2 arrived and I'm having the same problem as Nico. Power is always live. It does work for steering wheel controls. Not sure on speed pulse / etc. I suspect running power from the cigarette lighter might be tough, in particular getting the wire from the lighter to the stereo. I'll have an explore tomorrow and see if I can find switched power from somewhere else.

 

Hi Da Eagle
Dismantlement of the arm rest and routing the wire will take 10 minutes (and that is being careful and taking your time).
Tuck the cable up the side of the leather and carpet there is plenty of room and that negates removing the black velvet coin tray under the bridge.
Cheers Andrew

 

Finally done. A bit of nightmare waiting for parts to arrive, getting parts that don't work, wrong parts, etc, etc. Thanks Andrew for your help along the way. Now some advice for others doing this:

1) Don't do it. Or at least know what you're getting into. I've changed the radio on many cars and this is on another level difficulty wise. From getting the right parts to disassembly to reassembly to getting the radio lined up, it's tough work.
2) See below for the full parts list I used. Note that I don't have any cameras so that may simplify things a little.
3) Start disassembly by removing the plastic caps on the ends of the dash. You will likely need to remove some of the weather stripping on the door sill. When disassembling, try to stick the screws back in the holes they came from. There are an insane number of them.
4) Check for hidden screws. Once the ends of the dash are removed, there's one under the weather stripping on the passenger side. There are 3 very hard to access on the drivers side above the parking brake (you will likely need to remove the steering wheel shroud to get to it). There's one joining the trim under the steering wheel to the trim containing the hazard switch. Finally there are two on the trip surrounding the radio up very high.
5) Watch for the temp sensor (grille under steering wheel). Most people seem to break theirs though mine made it out ok. For be the trim on the front broke but that was easy to superglue back in place.
6) Be careful removing the hazard switch. It pops out (not the pastic surround, just the switch itself). There's a very short cable connected to a pcb on the back of it that could break very easily.
7) Avoid something with a motorized display. This will not function if you have the aluminium surround. It doesn't bother me but if I did it again, I would choose something else. Check that the face will fit through the surround (before purchasing a head unit if possible) as it is an insanely tight fit.
8) I needed to cut away some of the plastic at the top of the head unit to get a good fit (just a couple of mm). You will also likely need cut the top of the OEM mounting cage (good tin snips will do). You will likely need to modify the mounting brackets. I has to cut some side tabs and some top and bottom tabs off to get it to fit. You will likely need to modify the way that it mounts. Some spacers did the trick for me.
9) Use some fabric tape to wrap the wire and bring them up through the bottom of the mounting cage. There's plenty of room below the cage (behind the climate controls) where you can stick your wiring and any black boxes you have. You can buy an adapter (see below) to use the OEM GPS antennae. I'm getting excellent coverage with mine (locks instantly in a downstairs garage with the door closed). This saves having to find somewhere to mount the antenna.
10) Remove the top of the binnacle by popping the back up and pulling it forward. You can easily route the wire for the microphone around though the back. This mounted nicely without the bracket and sits nicely between the taco and speedo. There's one screw you will need to remove and the cable should slide past nicely.
11) The kit I mentioned below will not provide accessory power. I had to pull this from the center console. There's a 3 pin connector not connected to anything with a black and white wire leading to it. This is a ground and a +12v. Pull the pin and make the connection there. With a bit of effort, you can get the cable out the side and run it under the center console trim. There is a screw in one spot you will want to try to work it over if possible. The only downside is that the ignition needs to be on for this circuit to get power. The ISO to Pioneer harness is missing a pin or two. You can move those from the cable provided with the headunit and transplant them. Using this adapter meant only 3 wires need to be joined. Everything else was plug and play.
12) Reassemble and fit the radio and upper part of the dash after an initial test. You may want to route the USB cables through the glovebox first. I had some difficulty getting the thicker end through the holes it needed to go through. Once done, go for a 20minute drive. Choose some bumpy roads. Do some hard acceleration and braking. Drive using Android Audio or Apple Car Play for 10 or 15 minutes. Make sure the connection is stable. One of the USB cables my head unit came with did not like my android device but it only cut out after 10 minutes or so. Swapping the cables fixed it. Drive with the radio off for a bit and make sure there are no (new) rattles coming from that area of the car.
13) Reassemble everything else. The hazard switch trim piece is probably the most difficult to fit. The wire is not very long. I freed this from the factory cable ties to get a little more reach. The glove box would be easier with 2 people but can be done on your own.

Parts List:
https://connects2.co.uk/Product/ProductItem/CTSCH00C
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00133VQWE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XPDVER2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HLD42ZM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Car-Stereo-Radio-ISO-Wiring-Harness-Connector-16-Pin-PI100-For-Pioneer-2003-2018/371831598

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