Intake manifold question

Can you fit a quarter drive wobble socket down on the manifold nuts with the injectors in place?

I pulled the injectors out before taking the manifold off and now I have the intake on the bench and I am thinking to put the injectors back in before putting the manifold back on the car.

Can this be done?

 

then
Dave, my manifold is still sitting on the bench, I read somewhere that it is easier to install the injectors on the bench then put the whole thing back on the car and work around to install the nuts.

 

I always take mine off with injectors at the same time. Be careful don't lose any of the many little fasteners. The hole on the top of the bell housing has a way of attracting them into the clutch area. Make sure and plug it first. Don't ask me how I know.

 

Dave, I never remember or write down what I do. I look at stuff and just go at it. But in general I like good visual and physical access so my most likely approach would be to put the intake in and then the FI. The job is always faster with better access and is less painful on my old back. Raising the car about 6" helps me too. But if I took the mani off with FI on then I would probably install the same way, but I kinda think I pull the rails for access.

Dale, I have a special 10mm 1/4 drive socket with a magnet epoxied in it just for this job. Mani nuts get "magnet off and magnet on" so you never drop one. I buy cheapo harbor freight tools to make things out of like the magnet 10mm or I'll heat a wrench with oxy/acetylene and bend to shape I need then bath in kasenit and quench to make a hardened custom shaped wrench. I won't destroy a good snap-on or USAG tool that way.

 

I’ve removed the manifold a few times and while I’m sure there are some low profile sockets I’m not aware of, my 10mm magnetic socket will not fit with the fuel rails in place.

 

Thanks guys, I'll put the injectors in (they're at Mr Injector now) and try to fit my socket in there on the bench. The difficulty is connecting the injectors to the wire harness. A couple of the wires are a bit short. If I can't fit the socket I'll just have to put manifold on then the injectors.

 

I there any way to reproduce a set of wiring for injectors without costing arms and legs? as you see in the picture it is so harden and rigid that I am afraid it cracks and fall apart.
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Fatbillybob, sorry I haven't met you but if I were still living in SoCal I probably would have by now. I've learned a lot from your posts and really appreciate them here as I've always done all of my own Ferrari work (used to live in SoCal and ran a 275 GTB at Riverside and Ontario back in the day). Sold that car and snagged a used 550 for a modern day sort of replacement several years ago. I've had the manifold (and I take it off with the injectors still on it) many times and yep, made some custom 10mm tools (with magnets and locking socket to extension connections so nothing can go wrong----. I haven't tested my skills on taking the manifold on and off for a few years as I finally got most everything under there sorted for now.

 

Sark, Dave Helms used to make injector harnesses for our cars and he used premium grade silicone insulated wire that should never harden up. He did require the buyer to provide him the 7 conductor circular electrical connectors from the old harnesses, as they're apparently become unobtanium from suppliers.

 

Thanks for reply,
John I contacted him and he is not doing anymore, not much demand.

 

I beta tested Dave Helms harness. It was extremely good but not real special in the sense there is not much to it. When you take apart the Ferrari harness you will cry at what a POS it is. Before the helms harness I just bought milspec wire from mcmaster carr same as when I rebuilt my fusebox. I then just rewired the harness and put new pins in the connectors and some new boots I got from Helms and viola new harness. You can get the boot now from the place we can now source the pins. Moser I think...

I did not have a length problem with the OE harness...maybe just lucky.

I also have john's cop's. I really like them and will never go back to wires. When you have good electronics and clean injectors and good spark these car just purrrrrr

 

Thanks Carl,
https://www.mouser.com/Wire-Cable/Wire-Protection-Management/Cable-Boots/_/N-apvlc

 

Hi Dave:

I just did this job, on a major service. I found it best to remove the fuel rails, then you have relatively easy access to the 24 nuts holding the plenum down.
I packed the injector holes with shop grade paper towel. The ultimate problem of course is that it takes 2 people to lift the plenum safely. Well perhaps a Gorilla could do it one handed...

BTW I did the belt service, replaced the under plenum hose, and water pump, and fluids. All in it was $850 in parts, labor of course, was free. Oh and the shock
fix is the best same for the FHP steering mod.

Cheers

Mark

 

Those Maranello Skunkworks guys are pretty handy to have around.

 

I've search and searched for that 7 pin round connector with no luck. The injector end is no problem, readily available they'r Junior Power Timer (JPT) connectors.
anywhere from $3.00 to $15.00

 

I found the perfect replacement lock nut for the intake manifold. The nylon in the nyloc nuts can see temperatures up to 500 degrees, I suspect their locking ability at those temperatures.

I found a yellow zinc plated, flanged prevailing torque locking nut that is the correct size, available from Belmetric for $0.27/ea

Prevailing torque nuts prevent against vibration loosening. The design of this all metal non-circular hex drive nut provides resistance when tightened down on a bolt thread. The friction between the threads of the nut and the bolt increases the amount of force needed to tighten (and lock) the assembly into place.

https://www.belmetric.com/coarse-c-3_54_950/ntl6ylw-conical-lock-flange-nut-yellow-zinc-p-192.html

Another note RE: intake Manifolds, If you replace the two side cover and center cover gaskets be sure to re-torque after several heat cycles.
Mine were all finger tight and I suspect this may have caused a gasket blowout.

 

Dave great, the Ferrari part number 159601 the nuts for manifold is now superseded to 228265 which is nylon lock style to prevent loosening, at the end you are the winner from Bell metric , it is cheaper per nut and you buy the exact number needed.

 

Personally, I hate prevailing torque nuts and never use them unless I must. These prevailing torques are all over the Ford mustang and are not needed 99% of the time. All they do is make it harder and take longer for me to get those damn things off. YUK!

 

Call Mouser if you haven't. what is wrong with them

 

I don’t need any right now, I was looking for you.
Did you find them at Mouser?

 

Helms has the pins for those connectors but not the connector itself. I have never looked for the pins or the bodies on mouser.

 

When I searched for those connectors years ago, I went to the OEM and they were discontinued. Newer & much better options exist in the market if you're willing to redo the car side end too. That'll make it impossible to return it to stock, but who would want to? It's a mod that'll never be seen and it's a definite improvement over stock.

 

No, I didn't look for it.

 

It sounds crazy, but an engine hoist is very helpful for removing and replacing the plenum. It’s not about the weight; rather the awkwardness of what you have to lean over and lift from. Engine hoists are also cheaper than friends, who expect beer and libations after helping! Harbor Freight offers a cheap engine hoist that works quite well, and worth it for this job alone...


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