F12 CCM disc brakes cooling system failure and car wouldn’t start | FerrariChat

F12 CCM disc brakes cooling system failure and car wouldn’t start

Discussion in 'F12/812' started by GTEE3, May 25, 2020.

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  1. GTEE3

    GTEE3 Rookie

    Dec 1, 2019
    25
    Champaign, IL
    Full Name:
    Chia-Hao Lin
    Was gonna drive my 2014 F12 this morning but the car wouldn’t crank at all with a CCM brake cooling failure warning on the dash, the right flap is stuck in the open position.

    I know there’re a few people who have experienced this issue on the forum but mine seems to be the first that wouldn’t start at all.
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  2. Il Co-Pilota

    Il Co-Pilota F1 Veteran

    May 29, 2019
    6,023
    Hopefully some place nice.
    Full Name:
    A.B
    Just a quick question. Is your battery okay? A guy up here had that issue and it was solved by changing the battery. You could also try a hard reset if your battery is okay. Leave the battery disconnected for +10 min and reconnect. Then follow the steps in the owners manual for when the battery has been disconnected.

    It may not be the fix, but it is worth a try before taking it to the doctor.

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    ewright likes this.
  3. GTEE3

    GTEE3 Rookie

    Dec 1, 2019
    25
    Champaign, IL
    Full Name:
    Chia-Hao Lin
    I think the battery is fine, I’ve been leaving it on trickle charge mostly. The car has been able to start every time. I’ll give your method a try, thank!
     
  4. GTEE3

    GTEE3 Rookie

    Dec 1, 2019
    25
    Champaign, IL
    Full Name:
    Chia-Hao Lin
    Tried disconnecting and reconnecting the battery twice already, waited over an hour before reconnecting for the second attempt. Didn’t work, it shows 11-12 volts before starting, I don’t know if that’s too low.
     
  5. otakki

    otakki Formula 3

    Mar 24, 2016
    1,624
    Don't really understand the logic of not allowing the car to start with the flap stuck open. If it is stuck, it might make some sense...
     
  6. Il Co-Pilota

    Il Co-Pilota F1 Veteran

    May 29, 2019
    6,023
    Hopefully some place nice.
    Full Name:
    A.B
    Between 11 and 12 is way too low for a fully charged battery. It should read 12.6v minimum or above. Not sure how you get an "uneven" reading off of it? What does a multimeter show when you put that on?
     
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  7. GTEE3

    GTEE3 Rookie

    Dec 1, 2019
    25
    Champaign, IL
    Full Name:
    Chia-Hao Lin
    Forgot to update the situation. Continental Autosport found that the starter motor went bad (they told me it’s due to age), and the ground strap was corroded, replaced them and the car had no issue.


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  8. Solid State

    Solid State F1 Veteran
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    Feb 4, 2014
    9,639
    Full Name:
    Maximus Decimus Meridius
    I don't believe the simultaneous failure of the starter and the cable going to it. Its one or the other and a 2014 model year is way too young for the starter to go bad. Not sure what that has to do with the failure of a cooling duct flap either. There was definitely a control issue of the cooling flap and the car would not start so I would have guessed a bad battery or ground. The 11 volts is a give away to electrical/battery issues. Either way glad that yours is back in shape.
     

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