I changed the coolant & flushed it early Spring. I thought these are auto-bleeding systems. I did have an issue a number of years ago where I thought it was the Rad temp sensor but it turned out to be air in the system. I forget how I got it out. The other day after months of running fine, while at a light, I'm watching the temp climb way too high. I dont hear the radiator kicking on. I make it home just fine. Coolant level is fine. Here it is about a week later & I just threw her up in the air, pulled the fender lining. Ran her to normal temps & still no fan. jumped 12V to the fan - it came on. I jumpered the upper temp sensor. Fan kicked on. Dang, upper sensor. I've read these fail often. I cautiously open it to swap it with the old one I had. Almost no water came out and no hissing from air escaping. Fine. I put the old one in, add coolant to the tank (in case) and fire the car up. 3 min later when it's back to normal temp, the fan kicks on. So I'll toss the newer sensor into water & see if she tests ok. But it does make me think the system isn't self bleeding right. where's there a thread on a better way to bleed the system. Of course, from another thread I found the coolant reservoir hose was almost closed and I replaced it when it cracked. Perhaps the other hose is swollen shut. But I would have thought air would get through to purge. Anyway, if someone can point me in the right direction of a better air bleed? thanks.
I can only tell you what I do Just start the car with the reservoir off idle for 5 min until water gets very warm to touch. Shut off and repeat 2 to 3 times Do not forget to turn heater on to circulate through there as well.
One step that I take on any car, is to take note of how much coolant or oil etc I removed and be sure to replace the same amount.
My Ferrari dealer told me about this one: Use Redline "Water Wetter". Worked for me. I've done 3 coolant changes and never had a problem.
Water reduces surface tension which helps eliminate microscopic bubbles stuck to the surface of the cooling theoretically causing the car to run a bit cooler and more efficiently but it doesn't remove trapped air bubbles which is what this sounds like. Be sure to run the heater on high the heater pump is up front in the boot. Bubbles flow uphill so back end up helps a bit. After driving before cooling down the sysyem is pressurized so crack the bleed valves on the firewall behknd the passenger to bleed air. Usually takes a few drives doing that. Wear thick gloves it's hot. Sent using FerrariChat.com mobile app
You may have started a small leak from one of the clamps and where there is a leak air will be vacuumed in causing low pressure not allowing your thermostat to open at the right temp check the clamps and the hoses
stumbled on this link: https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/posts/138106575/ and here's a pic of my other self-bleeder hose diameter. it was replaced because it sprung a leak. this was the easy one to replace https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/posts/146966137/ I'll see if I can replace the other one tomorrow.
Ordered new silicone hoses from GT Car Parts. Figured why fool around - do them both. As noted in another thread, move the P/S reservoir out of the way & it's easy to change them. The newer one I put on developed a crack in it. it was leaking air, but not coolant. The older one I snipped in 1/2 to see if it was as constricting as the other I had already replaced. Nope. it looked good. But anyway, took her for a spin, the air flushed out of the system & the rad fans kicked on like they are suppose to. so far, so good.
