R-Tuned, the same company that made the composite engine bay panel and the composite center console covers discussed earlier in the thread. You may want to follow the rest of this discussion before you make any decision.
I used a cutting wheel to connect the corners by cutting the sides of the opening. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I used a small sanding drum on a Dremel tool to smooth out the edge of the opening. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Blue painter's tape to create the template for the notch that provides clearance for the F430 hood latch. Titanium bolts already test-fitted. A Dremel tool is a life-saver for this type of small, precision fabrication work. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I worked in crash safety for a domestic OEM. While computational crash testing is extensively used, modal (physical) crash testing is still a big part of safety programs. Interactions between components in the physical world are still difficult to model with 100% certainty, therefor no one is going to certify based solely on computational testing. The legal stakes are too high.
Because the new hood was designed for a RHD car, the hood vents to the cabin air filter intake were on the wrong side. I marked off a template for the vent openings on the correct side, using more blue tape. Image Unavailable, Please Login
The corners have been drilled to round them and remove any stress risers. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I totally agree. Physical crash testing will be around for awhile as the 'final exam'. Government regulators will keep mandating it until the science improves, the software improves, and there's a LOT more data. But once you have a complete car and all its parts that have been through computational and modal crash testing, it's easier to reverse-engineer individual parts with a high degree of confidence. CAE and FEA enable an engineer to run a part through a large number of load cases, that was just not possible even 15 years ago.
After the tape is removed, there is still some finishing work to be done. Image Unavailable, Please Login
The next task is to install windshield washers in the new hood. Here's a shot of the OEM hood where the fluid feed line enters the hood, and one of the washer nozzles un-clipped from the hood. Image Unavailable, Please Login
The new hood did not have an entry port for the windshield washer hose, so a port needs to be drilled for a grommet sized for the rubber hose to the nozzles. Image Unavailable, Please Login
A countersink bit is great for drilling holes for rubber grommets. It drills a very clean hole in composites, like carbon fiber and fiberglass. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Here's the hole drilled with the counter-sink bit, and the grommet for the hole. The bit cuts very clean. Image Unavailable, Please Login
RBM are using Ti bolts for your front anti roll bar ? I really like what you are doing, I started a couple months ago installing Ti fasteners every where it has been a big lesson. Wanted to replace steering axel hub and brake calipers was advised of sheering would not be safe. Worried about my front anti roll having installed 8mm hex head blots maybe sheering ?
The grommet for the windshield washer hose fitted to the hole, perfectly sized. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I have racing drop links on my anti-roll bars with Ti hardware connecting the links to the bars. The bolts are specially made to clear the tie rod ends as they rotate. I have not changed the hardware the attaches the anti-roll bars to the chassis. The bolts hold the clamps that hold the bars. The bars are loaded in torsion, and if they are applying any load to the chassis, it is a slight bending load, most of which is applied to the clamps. There should be very little load on the bolts, so you should be fine, if you used the appropriate Ti grade bolts, as discussed earlier in the thread.
Please post a pic of your drop links . I have been thinking of doing the same . I assume they are length adjustable so they can be set on a flat patch with no preload on the roll bar ?
The OEM windshield washing system has a combined splitter/check valve in the line to the nozzles in the hood. Two key functions required for proper operation of the washers is balancing pressure between the nozzles, and keeping the lines charged with fluid to prevent delays when the driver hits the button. The new system will have to have the same features. Also note the clips that hold the valve and hoses in place. Image Unavailable, Please Login