Proper installation of Sway Bars . Help! | FerrariChat

Proper installation of Sway Bars . Help!

Discussion in '308/328' started by Nuno Andrade, Oct 17, 2020.

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  1. Nuno Andrade

    Nuno Andrade Karting

    Aug 24, 2019
    154
    Houston
    Full Name:
    Nuno Andrade
    I have recently redone all my bushings and sway bar restoration. Although I thought that sway bars was straight forward, it is becoming a small puzzle. This are the questions that I have for both .... by the way my car is a 83 GTS QV US

    Front Sway Bar

    1- I red in multiple places that the diagram shows the nut pressing the sway bar against the A-arm but in fact it should be the bolt instead. Is this correct?...or it’s the nut (#11) as per diagram?

    2- what are the correct torques for the nuts that hold the drop links to sway bar and a-arm #11 and #29

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    Rear Sway Bar

    my car has 2 different types of washers for the rear....total of 4 flat washer and 2 cup washer

    1- has the previous owner lost 2 cup washers, or indeed the GTS only uses 1 on each side?

    2- the diagram is not clear on what are cup washers and flat washers. Can someone explain where to use the flat washers and the cup washer?

    2- what are the correct torques for the nuts that hold the drop links to sway bar and a-arm

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  2. miketuason

    miketuason F1 World Champ
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    Feb 24, 2006
    15,517
    Cerritos, CA.
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    Mike
    If you notice the front sway bar is connected to the top of the drop link
    And the rear sway bar is connected to the bottom of the drop link.
     
  3. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
    Consultant

    Nov 29, 2001
    12,661
    San Carlos, CA
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    Mitchell Le
    Items 30 are cup washers installed with the cone pointing toward the bushings.
     
  4. Nuno Andrade

    Nuno Andrade Karting

    Aug 24, 2019
    154
    Houston
    Full Name:
    Nuno Andrade
    Thanks for the reply. I was looking in the diagrams and #32 is ferrari.part 108913....and it looks to me that is the cupped washer


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  5. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Jan 11, 2001
    25,035
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
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    Steve Magnusson
    The 1983 US 308QV SPC shows that item 30 for GTS should be 4 flat washers and 4 cup washers -- looks like you are just missing 2 of the cup washers. (Don't just look at the SPC figure -- also read the SPC text describing item 30.)
     
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  6. Nuno Andrade

    Nuno Andrade Karting

    Aug 24, 2019
    154
    Houston
    Full Name:
    Nuno Andrade
    By any chance do you know if 32 is installed with the cone pointing towards the silent block?


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  7. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Jan 11, 2001
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    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
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    Steve Magnusson
    I'll have to confess that I really can't recall for sure, even though my ex-308 used the same #32 washer and I did replace those silent blocks, but I would install them with the cone pointing towards the silent block as I believe the design purpose of that large chamfer on #32 is to prevent the outer metal sleeve of the silent block from contacting #32 when the silent block rubber is under extreme deflection/distortion.
     
  8. Nuno Andrade

    Nuno Andrade Karting

    Aug 24, 2019
    154
    Houston
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    Nuno Andrade
    I’m inclined to do the same. Just interesting why they didn’t adapt those to the front as well. The nut in direct contact with the silent block doesn’t sound right....I think that is why some people are mentioning that at the front the silent block should be pressed against the a-arm by the bolt head instead of the nut ...so basically opposite to what the diagram is telling us. Have you heard about that before?


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  9. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Jan 11, 2001
    25,035
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
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    Steve Magnusson
    Whether you use the nut or the bolt head against the silent block at the front, I don't think it makes any difference as the hex sizes are the same (aren't they?).

    (I no longer have an example to look at so this is just my speculation: )

    At the rear, I think you need the #32 between the A-arm as a spacer because the square mount piece is larger that the outer metal sleeve of the silent block; whereas, at the front, the round mount piece on the A-arm is small enough to not contact the outer metal sleeve of the silent block. Could've they have done some additional machining on the square mount piece at the rear? Probably, but the cost of a washer is less ;) Could the washer #32 under the nut be eliminated? Probably, but then you increase the chance of mis-assembly. Additionally, the length of the stud in the square mount may have played a role if having the second #32 washer allowed use of a non-custom length stud (or use of a stud they were already using somewhere else). Just my rambling...
     
  10. Brian Harper

    Brian Harper F1 Rookie
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    Feb 17, 2006
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    My '83 308 also only had one of the cone washers per side. Coincidence or factory original? Hard to know after all this time. I bought a couple and assembled as the parts diagram says.
     
  11. Nuno Andrade

    Nuno Andrade Karting

    Aug 24, 2019
    154
    Houston
    Full Name:
    Nuno Andrade
    What about the bolt on the front? Did you installed the bolt as per diagram or did you install it the other way around...having the bolt head on the drop link side?


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  12. Brian Harper

    Brian Harper F1 Rookie
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    Feb 17, 2006
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  13. thorn

    thorn F1 Rookie
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    Aug 7, 2012
    3,322
    Tallahassee, FL
    The torque values on these are not critical; You'll be fine in the "snug the fastener" range. If you really need a number, I'd go with around 30-35 ft/lbs.
     
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