Post-Track Day 812 Shifting

Hi- I recently did a couple track days with the 812 and now I’m seeing it has much more “kick” on downshifts and slightly more on upshifts. Is there any way the ECU adapted to the driving and needs a reset to be smoother for road use?

 

Its possible. What mode(s) did you drive in on the track and what do you use on the street? My guess is if it did adjust then it will also adjust after some time back on the street. My experience is in general Ferraris run better after the track. It could also be the engine running stronger. I hope you had a blast!


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Thanks! It was awesome. I kept it in sport because 812 is my favorite car and this track has very little run-off and lots of corners, elevation changes and camber. I’ve put almost 10K miles on it in the last year. On the street I tried race and sport (normally drive in race). Dealer said car adjusts and tries to protect itself from slipping the clutch under heavy load and that it should adjust back to “normal” after more street miles.

 

It could be, please let us know. Most important is you had fun!

 

It will tone it down after a while. The car senses your driving and adjust accordingly. There's a simpler way though. Just use the disconnect on the battery and let the car sit for at least 10 mins. That is a hard reset. That usually reset the TCU. There's a piece in your owners manual on what to do after a battery disconnect. It's pretty easy.

 

I never noticed that.

Check your brake pads. I used up a set of brand new pads in one weekend. I’m on my third set and my car has 1100 track miles and 1289 mi total.

Also if you track get the TDF Corsa tires. The P zero are pure turds. Absolutely cannot handle heat at all. Need to be bled multiple times and still heat up whereas after one bleed the Corsa maintain pressure all day (weekend in fact) and you can just watch your temp gauge and drive accordingly. Like Cup 2s Corsas are good for two weekends on the track.


I don’t know about sport mode but in race mode the first couple of hundred yards is where the car learns the tarmac. I’ve been told on pit out to accelerate aggressively and not weave or brake until the first turn for the car to learn the surface.

 

With that amount of tracking, have you considered switching to a race pad? Much better performance and a lot cheaper to boot.

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Thanks. I was thinking about brakes but it feels fairly clearly to be transmission-related given the lurching factor and how it makes it feel almost like a single clutch gearbox (at least trending in that direction). I’ve got probably 300 track miles on it. I’ve been using sport cup 2s- 1000% agree with respect to P zero.

 

What size Cup 2's are you running on what wheels?

With 300 track miles, take a look at your pads. 500 miles are enough to kill a set of pads on a Pista and 488. Those cars run the exact same pads and rotors. How much pad material is left? Keep in mind that you should not wear them less than 3 mm.

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Yes please do tell. I know you can get same rolling diameter on the rear going to 21s, but at the expense of sidewall, which in a big heavy car and with all that horsepower, less sidewall is not ideal. But Anders knows waaaaay more about that than me.

Fitment up front? Cup 2s only come in 305s with the correct load rating. I'm struggling with the 275s up front now with the car lowered on Novitec springs. Fender liners are now a consumable due to rubbing. Going from 275 -> 305 up front and only 315 -> 325 in the rear in a car with already more bite up front with the Novitec springs may make it squirrelly- eh.

I know Anders, but I had a check engine light come on (bad gas/low gas) so I bit the bullet for now. My Porsche guy (a Certified Gold level mechanic, former endurance racer and crew chief) is an AP Racing brake guy and we've discussed this. He's been suggesting I ought to swap out my dot 1 RS for a dot 1 Cup car as I only track it anyway.

ps I'm very happy with the Novitec springs- lowered the car 1.25" just makes the lines aggressive- perfect IMO. And the stiffer springs really liven up the rear for more aggressive driving.

 

Consumable fender liners. That's funny

There are a few ways of getting Cup 2 shoes on it, but all a bit odd. I suppose the best would be the GT2RS combo. 265/35R20 front and 315/30R21 rear. The Porsche fronts run pretty wide so they could be a stand-in for 275 I suppose. If one subtracted 3-4 mm of offset per front wheel, that would eliminate some, if not all of what extra understeer the slightly narrower fronts would induce. But if one had a set of wheels made for the Porsche tyres and track days, I say screw the Cup 2 and go straight to Trofeo R or Cup 2 R.

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Yeah, $1850 installed......

The 265s have a 99 load rating, why I mentioned the 305s which are 102. That's 50kg less load capacity per tire for the 265 than OEM. (The 295s are 101 @ 25 kg difference.)

Machs nicht.....the Corsa are very stable tires. Again, bleed them once in the first saturday morning session and don't need to touch them the rest of the weekend. And Texas gets so hot the Porsche boys who aren't on slicks say the Dunlops handle the heat better than Cup 2s (don't get as greasy). Last weekend at COTA the temp on the cement in the pits was 107*F (42* C) while I sat waiting to go out. Wasn't even worth chasing a lap time in the afternoon.

 

The 99 is not an issue. Remember that the 812 is also allowed ro run a 255 from the factory. Look at it another way. The heavier Lusso runs a 97. Don't worry about the 99.

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We are running 315’s for the rears and 275 for the fronts (20 inch wheels).. These are the new sport cup 2 model and we are told that they have the correct load rating for the car. They run very well. Similarly I’m looking at buying a 458 challenge for next season and probably won’t track the 812 very often.

 

What is the aspect ratio? Don't recall seeing Cup 2 tyres in 275/35R20 and 315/35R20. Link?

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They are 315/30/20R

 

30? That's tiny compared to OE. Are the fronts 30 too?

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275/35/20 in fromt

 

So 275/35R20 front and 315/30R20? Okay. Odd combo for an 812. Do you have any issues with ESC or ABS? That's a very big difference compared to OE front to rear diameter bias. Your rear wheels are actually smaller in diameter than your fronts. Have you lowered the front or raised the rear to rebalance the car? Those rears are 31 mm smaller in diameter than stock, and lowering the rear 15.5 mm will transfer a lot of weight to the front.

 

No lowering or raising was done. It’s just for a couple track days at end of the season for this car. It seemed to drive pretty well.

 

Did you think the brake pads could have something to do with the shifting? I’m not following how?

What I see now is mostly under downshift from 3 to 2 when going slowly I get a really rough jerk that I don’t recall ever getting. Higher speed shifts feel fine. Dealer doesn’t really have any ideas. Do you guys?