Need a clutch for York AC compressor

Anybody have any leads on a clutch for a York AC compressor for my 328? I was told mine "grenaded". I have been told it is unobtainium. My mechanic has tried two but they won't match the belt. Some aftermarket but it doesn't sound like any of them fit properly.

 

I should have one, well the entire compressor actually. The clutch/pulley is unique to Ferrari from what I recall... The compressor not so much. Common York.

 

I know it's often been stated that the clutch is specific for Ferrari but I can't understand why it would it need to be different than the clutch on any other 12V auto application. Not saying it isn't but it doesn't make any sense to me.

 

The pulley design is part of the restriction.....

 

If the compressor truly grenaded, you're probably in for replacing more than just the clutch. (Just to be aware, if you weren't already.)

 

There's one on ebay..I saw it yesterday

 

We should know, what exactly is wrong with the A/C-clutch. If the friction lining on the pressure plate is still present, all other things should be rebuildable. The bearing is a standard part available everywhere and there are solenoids which fit.
Like mentioned, the only problem is the pulley with its kind of exotic belt profile.
Superformance in the UK sells clutches with the correct pulley dimensions except belt profile.. Any metal working shop should be able to machine the pulley to make it fit for the 11M belt.

Best from Germany
Martin

 

I am following this thread with interest. My clutch is shot too. Planning on fixing in spring.

 

Ferrari produced this part as I understand it so there are very few around. Yes there are aftermarket ones but the belts don't match up.

 

The magnet is destroyed per mechanic. Forgive my ignorance as this is beyond my understanding.

 

The clutch grenaded. The compressor was bad also but we have the replacement. Just not finding a clutch that will match up with the belt

 

What's the plan for the hoses and condensor?

 

I bought a brand new upgraded compressor with its own clutch from Italian car parts, as well as the bracket for 685.00 + 120 for the bracket, I cant remember the brand name, but it is not the universal one that was on my car prior, which you can find, but none of them comes with a clutch , and I was not able to locate clutch. this new one sits sideways ,its cylindrical in shape, My AC works fantastic, I wont forget to mention that the bracket they sold me had to be modified, Charles at Italian car parts could not give me or my mechanic any info regarding this issue, so you might want to check as far as the bracket goes. I just payed extra for my guy to get it right. Keep in mind, if you switch to R134 , you need to replace the hoses as well, they will fail with R134 if you dont , I had to have new ones made . I hope this helps you. I just remembered the name, Sanden Compressor..

Thank you

 

Then your mechanic should source a magnet (coil, solenoid) for York 210. They are available.
It it's just the magnet, it is unnecessary to scrap this rare whole clutch.
The pulley is worth its weight in gold.
While doing the job I would replace the bearing as well.

Best from Germany
Martin

 

The hoses are being replaced as we switched to R134. I will check on the condensor. Thanks.

Thanks Martin. I will look into it more with my mechanic.

 

The only part I see a problem occuring is with trying to machine a new sheave into the pulley. 11mm is unique in pitch and profile, I don't think there's enough material there, and if I recall a 5/8" is far too large anyway, 3/8" groove is smaller but the angles are wrong.

However excellent point on replacing the solenoid. Oddly I had to replace wholesale the entire A/C compressor on the Mercedes as the pulley was damaged but everything else was fine... Pulley cost exceeded an entire new unit! Go figure...

 

If there's not enough material present for cutting a new V-Belt groove. What do you think of this idea? Cutting off the whole old profile. Pressing on a steel ring with a shrink fit. Cutting the new profile. This is, what I would do.
On some engines the gear ring mount on the flywheel is just a shrink fit. Or for the rear wheel bearings in my '72 Alfa as well.

Best from Germany
Martin

 

Press for for the starter ring is ok, never enough heat generated into the ringgear for it to expand and shift. I'm assuming the wheel bearings are inner vs outer..
A new pulley pressfit onto the old one has the probability of thermal expansion.... There are ways around that.. Though it might be easier to just machine a new pulley to replace the old one, it can't be that complicated of a part.
Oddly enough machinest are not fond of cutting pulley sheaves, look up the profile for a pulley sheave, convex faces, transition faces for the top and bottom which actually have funny names I'm not recalling at the moment... It's not that's it's overly complicated but writing out the G-code is apparently a real PITA... I ended up having to find a specialist who only does pulley machining, my guy said "nope, not going to pull my hair out on that one".
It's like AN fittings... There's an exact profile and is why so many leak or bind,etc.. close enough does not work!

 

O.k. agreed. Making a new complete pulley would probably be easier except regarding the profile geometry issues.

There is only an outer wheel bearing on the live axle on my Alfa. The bearing is held on its seat with a shrink ring.
The opposite end of the drive shaft is supported by the differential.
If the shrink ring fails, the rear brake caliper is the only thing preventing that I lose the complete rear wheel including drive shaft
Earlier 105-series cars have a lock-nut similar lime those on our 308 rear axle shafts. Heaven knows, why Alfa switched to shrink rings.

Never seen such catastrophic failures on a series 105 Alfa, but actually on a much older Alfa with rear drum brakes.

Best from Germany
Martin

 

Crazy... Is it at least a taper seat? Or are we just talking... Heat it up and press on... No locking nut.. Nothing! Gearboxes have pressfit bearings but they also sport a locking ringnut.... You know just in case!
I've got to look this assy up... That's sounds nuts..

 

No.

Correct.

Here you go!
This is from the earlier 105 cars. But in fact the only difference on the later cars is, that the lock-nut was replaced by a shrink ring.

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The opposite end of the drive shaft into the differential:

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Best from Germany
Martin

 

Wow.... Just wow... The lateral strain on that bearing! At least the early locknut made sure it wouldn't slip off... Press fit collar ring replaced it though... Wonder why...
Any kind of flange on the outer race? Can't make anything out in the pic... Or does the ringnut also hold a flange on?
What a strange setup...

 

No flange on the outer race. This is, what you need for replacement of the rear wheel bearings. The part in the middle is the shrink ring. I did it in 2004. Haven't lost a rear wheel since. LOL
Never heard of any failures and this design was found on Alfa 105/115 spiders till the 1990s.

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But without kidding. Why would a flange on the outer race matter?

Best from Germany
Martin

 

As we tangent from the AC thread here...

Depending on how it's retained, if the outer flange is not captive then all the thrust loading has to be supported by the inner race and the bearing race, or it floats and then wheel assy is prone to walking around. It obviously works or there'd be a slew of failures...

Ahhh... Wait a sec... Went and perused the alfa diagrams for that series... Solid axle rear.. I was thinking it was an IRS setup which would make zero sense to do that with. Lateral loading is going to be supported at the differential end. That's why you don't see it falling apart.

 

You're right. I won't derange the thread further. Nevertheless thanks for this interesting discussion.
Back to topic. I can't remember. Is the friction lining on the spring loaded pressure plate or on the pulley?

Best from Germany
Martin