Calling all you F430 F1 clutch/gearbox experts

If the clutch is slipping then the changes will be slower. If the clutch is not correctly adjusted it can also cause a lethargic change. Shame you aren't a little closer, i'd have thrown the SD3 on it for you and checked it...

 

I'm curious about this as well. In the different f430s I've driven regardless of the year or clutch wear numbers, I've noticed that some shift more sharply (without a delay) compared to others. Not sure if this is a software issue or a matter of the PIS needing to be adjusted.

 

early 430s have different TCU software then the 08 ..keep that in mind.
08 is "sofast 3"
food for thought

 

do u see the rpm rais on normal street driving rpm range 3k-4k?

try it on red line rpm that's where the setting makes a deference (race-sport)
when I adjust the pis and the clutch configuration and its slightly off the first symptom is a slight up blimp when the shifting (normal driving).
I usually lower the clutch distance a little or the PIS and it fixes it. but in return it will change the clutch wear and the biting point.
this has to do with the clutch senor positioning the clutch to where the TCU thinks its fully locked in but its probably off by 0.3mm.

 

My 06 car does this on up shifts - revs increase slightly before the next gear is selected. The PIS has been adjusted to try and fix this but it made no difference. I would appreciate it if you could explain your process for adjusting the clutch distance.
How much do you change the setting at a time and do you then drive the car until the slurring stops? Does changing this setting have any other effect on the car other than changing the the clutch wear indication?

 

My experience was that PIS set too low would drag the clutch when idling at standstill in first gear. Little higher (+.3mm) and drag stops but initial takeoff is harsh. Add 0.1mm incrementally until you can take off/manoeuvre smoothly in first or reverse. You do need to be positive with the throttle, ie takeoff not creep. All done in Sport mode.

For me that turned out to be 5.7mm. My understanding is that this means that once a gear is engaged, or when changing gears, the clutch moves to 5.7mm off fully closed position and then closes progressively according to wheel speed and engine revs. PIS too low means the clutch is never fully disengaged hence drag or even failure to engage. PIS too high results in clutch slip/raised revs due to torque increase before the clutch engages sufficiently.

Adjusting the PIS should not change the wear index. That is calculated by measuring the change over time of the clutch fully closed position. The reference position is set on installation of a new clutch and as it wears it must of course move further to reach the fully closed position as the material has been worn down. The fully closed position is recorded automatically by the clutch position sensor.

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Probably needs new acculmator. They're rubber and wear over time, lowering hydraulic pressure and slowing down shifts.

Could also be worn F1 relay. I'd look into scudinc relay

 

This is the best explanation for how to drive an F1 I have ever heard. Everyone just says drive it like a manual, but to be honest that depends on what kind of car you have as they all drive differently from takeoff.