Ferrari FF Electrical System Failure

ManneTINO = little lever



What's the year and mileage?
Were you driving regularly and using a tender every two weeks of non driving?
How long have you had the FF?
Did you buy the car from some joker for cheap, or from a dealer with good books/history?

 

sometimes the car just needs to be rebooted - like a computer

 

pure speculation on my part, since the error codes are probably the breadcrumbs...

I'll assume the battery is good, and since this occurred while driving, it wasn't a low voltage problem (Assuming the alternator is producing clean power). If it was, you'd probably have different symptoms

Given the cluster/windows/et al, I'm going guess

1) bad connection to one of the (many) chassis ECU's, or there is a sensor/microswitch somewhere with an intermittent ground fault or bad connection (Eg. the windows are dropped when the door lever microswitches are activated)

2) IF it's just a SW glitch, and a hard reset didn't work (battery disconnect), the dealer can reload software

3) as a an attempt at empathy, our 2015 once flashed every alarm, bell and whistle. Full, good battery. Our dealer Master Tech (who is a wizard) eventually deduced that there was a bad rain sensor (in the rearview mirror). That was causing faults, popped a fuse, et al. I suspect the radar installer had done something, but who knows. Bottom line, there was nothing pointing to the rain sensor, but the tech had to sort of eliminate it down system by system. The CAN network in these cars is very complex, and only mildly fault tolerant (which, BTW, is the same with most high-end cars)

Please keep us posted.

 

It can be anything. Thats the problem with all these advanced electronics. This reminds me of when I had a parking sensor go bad on my 599. All of a sudden everything failed... Got to be seen by your dealer... Sorry. Downside of high tech.

 

Lol gotta love it - maybe it took a special super secret version of cntrl alt delete!


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My hunch is a bad battery especially as there were loads of error codes.

Even if it appears good a bad cell can limit the current delivering capability (high internal resistance) of the battery which will cause voltage drops and can then causes errors.

If you have the factory battery (FIAMM?) then well worth changing it in my experience. Even from new the the factory batteries can often have issues especially if they have been allowed to go completely flat during transportation etc.

 

Service Mgr here says bad battery cell, or not driving the car enough/no tender, main cause of most electrical gremlins. Drive more, less problems.

 

I guess she just wanted some extra TLC... Suggestion- have them hook you up with a better tender like the 7002 Ctek and make sure to plug in when you know you won't drive it the next day...

 

It's too bad the oem battery is not up to par. What battery brand and model is a good aftermarket alternative?

 

Electrical system failure, Manettino failure and TPMS failure. All dash lights are on. Originally had the wrong battery installed, have since switched to an AGM Duracell 49/H8. No change, though. Car will not start. Tried to start, but won’t fire/turn-over. I thk that is the computer telling it to not deliver fuel.

How do I reboot the whole system?

 

I am currently having the identical “electrical system failure” to the original thread. However, it only occurs when the car sits outside for hours below 30F. The battery is brand new and dealer installed less than 6 months ago. I daily drive the car at least 20 minutes each way and use the tender religiously.

The car starts fine and after warming up for a few minutes the electrical failures resolve one by one.

I’m under warranty but so far haven’t sent it the 250 miles to the dealer.

 

Had similar issue with cold weather and not driving daily and no tender. Changed battery. There was also lead issue which contributed.

Both resolved with lead change and new battery.


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What's "lead issue" and "lead change?"

 

Repinging this to get some feedback from the forum...
Getting a persistent "Electrical System Failure - see dealer" warning for a while. Battery good and fresh (Interstate, a year and a half old), lives on a tender, no issues with driving it or other warning messages, and messages goes away after a few restarts/car getting warm. I know a number of people have had this issue and there have been a couple of different experiences with "fixing" it (and how long that fix actually lasts... for example, I have Scott's car and even with the above it is still happening) - would love feedback on what updated thinking there is now on this!

 

Replace with a new interstate and the assess

 

Image Unavailable, Please Login This is the battery, dated 1/2020 if I remember correctly. I bought a new battery in August to do just as you recommended (I read that on the forums in prior search), so brought new battery home to install...and realized that I already had a fresh one once I got it out of the car. Pain in the ass. Same model, operating even higher than rated when I took it back to be tested before returning the new one and reinstalling.

 

It cld have a bad cell and still tests ok

 

Anyone else have other experiences beyond battery for this, or universally this was always resolved with battery change?
As far as behavior, it doesn’t happen when the car is warm and after a few starts it stops all together. Then, will come back after sitting.
Any other battery options beyond the interstate battery that most use?

 

I have my car on a tender and get the same warning when I start it. If I drive it a few miles and restart, it goes away

 

Have u tried using a different tender?

 

Ever since the idiots that took 8 weeks to install my Pioneer head unit installed new amps, it seems to drain the car while sitting. I gave up trying to solve it and just plug it in. It is the Ferrari tender