Kline Innovation Exhaust

Hey flea;
Make sure I got this right: with the button pushed, the valves should ALWAYS be open, right?
That's not how they're acting, regardless what I do.


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Correct. When the wireless remote is activated and is lit.....the valves should stay open.

 

I'm really not convinced the problem I'm having is heat. I've installed the tig-finger insulation, as recommended. I've tucked the controller as far away from heat as I think it can get, and I've extended the antenna wire. I still get intermittent valve closing. It seems to do it most when throttle is steady. In other words: when I accelerate the valves are open, but at "maintenence throttle" they'll frequently close, but open again immediately if i apply more throttle. Sometimes sitting at a stop light i can hear them clacking open and closed repeatedly and in short succession.

Ideas?
I'm really tempted to hardwire a switch so I can test if it's the BT or if it lies elsewhere.
I imagine I can probably "hotwire" the controller?

Really: I'd love any ideas.

 

I always thought valved systems = marketing gimmick.

Any experienced exotic car owner will know that other than the initial cold start, all you have to do to keep the noise down with a non-valved system is shift into higher gears when on the move. I’m even willing to say that because of the higher air flow from an unrestricted layout, the non-valved xpipe is even quieter than oem and or valved aftermarket system, especially from inside the cabin, coz well, there’s ZERO droning for starters.

How many times do you do cold starts in the wee hours of the morning to annoy your neighbors? If you’re trying to compare it to say a Prius, then even the oem system would be considered loud.

 

At this point, I think the wireless remote unit maybe faulty or damaged. I would reach out to Kline or go with the Forza controller.

 

Thanks. I'm thinking so too.

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So, a quick update to this.
I contacted the folks at kline who immediately sent me a new controller, free of charge with instructions to return the faulty one, if in fact it was found to be faulty.

It's been sitting on the shelf for weeks, waiting for me to get to it.

In the meantime, the controller quit working entirely, and my neighbors have learned to hate the car at 7 am. :-(

Today was a rainy day, so i dug into it and discovered almost immediately that the controller did not have 12v to it. WHY took me a little longer. I eventually traced it to a bad connector, which looked to the eye to be perfect.... but digging deeper, on the back side, deep in the socket, the wire had corroded to almost nothing. Why? I don't know. I'm open to ideas. But I took the new one from the replacement controller and wired it all back up. "Good to go".

I'll return this to kline with the new controller, so he can watch for any others which might be compromised.

I have every reason to believe this will fix the issue completely, but a good long drive is in order, to be sure. (But, as i mentioned: it's rainy today :-( ) Image Unavailable, Please Login

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Because kline...

 

Huh..... i would think the takeaway about kline from my post would be that they sent me a new controller, free of charge, no questions asked.



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Great job figuring out the root cause of the issue Dan!

Enjoy your very well deserved drive!

Dan

 

can anyone tell me where the ECU plus is located for the inconel switch? This kline system with no instructions is a pain in the ass.

 

I would assume it's located in the rear engine compartment behind the panels. I didn't do my Kline install myself, but it would make no sense if the remote was in the cabin and the controller had to be mounted there as well. At that point you might as well have a hard wired switch into a blank spot.

 

Is your issue now fixed?

 

Are you having issues with yours?

 

The ECU is supposed to be placed anywhere you see fit. The closer to the controller (and away from high heat) the better.

 

Nope... Works great. One thing to keep in mind, you do need to wait about 30 seconds on a cold start for the vacuum to build before the switch works.

 

What shop installed it for you?

 

It was installed by my mechanic Fonzie at J.Scuderia in Cranbury NJ. He is really amazing, but on the other side of the country from you.

 

Might need to pick his brain. Has he installed a bit of these controllers?

 

I think mine was the 1st. He's super busy and takes weeks to get an appointment this time of year so he may not have time to chat. I can tell you Kline themselves were very helpful when you email them asking for help. I would try them 1st as obviously they know the most.

Cheers,
Corey

 

I'll have to disagree with you here on one point, Fresh. Having used the stock, s-line, and kline systems, the last 2 alongside fabspeed headers and race cats, steady state and low rev volume is much higher inside and out with the s-line.

BS

 

Different question, same exhaust. So I just got mine in. It sits probably an inch lower than OEM, now my vacuum hoses don't reach the valve connector, anyone else find this? Did you have to buy longer ones? I don't see any routing options to get the extra 3/4" I or so I need....

 

Whats is your current set up out of curiousity - I personally have S line, but was considering Kline.

 

Many has gone to S-line to Kline. I don't recall any going Kline to S-line. A matter of fact S-line now offers valved system to compete with the demand for valve option.

 

GruppeM intakes, Fabspeed headers, HJS race cats, Kline exhaust. The increase in volume after doing the headers and cats drove me back to a valved system. I never had an issue with the S-Line otherwise and still have it on hand.

BS