This may be old news, but in case it's not...... Down here in Texas AC is a must. With the engine out of my BBi, I decided to update the AC to R134a refrigerant. I've replaced the original Borletti compressor with a Sanden. All pretty straightforward. I think I've attached a picture. If anyone wants details, just ask. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I wonder why you changed the compressor. I still have the original inside and since 7 years I use R134A. all 2 years I suck out and refilll again and have to add then about 200 gramm
About why: It was a choice to re-seal the original and replace the clutch bearing or update to a MUCH better compressor, one that is way more efficient and won't lug the motor as much. I'll add that here in Texas the AC situation is much different from yours in Germany. We have many 100 F. days and for many months have highs in the 90's besides that. BTW: when you mention adding 200 cc every time you evacuate and charge, are you talking about 200 cc more of refrigerant or 200 cc or refrigerant oil. I suspect you're talking about refrigerant since 200 cc of oil is a bunch. I ask since each time you evacuate, you take a bit of the refrigerant oil out of the system, and that oil much be replenished.
The other big question could be why do you "suck out and refill again" ?? I mean, Romano's english is much better than my german, but there may be some translation menaing lost here in choice of words. Who removes refrigerant every 2 yrs only to add back? Gotta be more to thios....
I put on all my cars and also customer cars after 2 to 4 years all R134a out to see how much was lost in this time and the refill the same again plus this what was lost. and those 200 gramm I told here have been lost at my car in 2 years
I am planning to retrofit the original compressor with Sanden. I noticed on the attached photo that adaptor bracket is needed. Do you have a drawing of the adaptor plate?
FWIW.. I use Dura Cool 12/134 replacement in my system with the standard York type compressor. Dura Cool requires less refrigerant, yields a lower operating head pressure, and has a larger molecular structure than either 12 or 134 (a factor with older hoses). Being an oil based material it offers lubricating properties as well. It can be mixed with both 12 and 134 with no problem. It works extremely well in my BBi ( Florida Heat) and it's worked well in my 308 GTB (been in there for 5+ years). Available on eBay and it's reasonably priced too.
I’m considering Dura Cool, which is R290, purified/dry Propane, but perhaps in conjunction with a halon automatic fire suppression system in the engine bay.
