What are these 2 hoses that are capped? I just noticed them while performing my first oil change. Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Looks like your air pump is missing. What model number oil filter is that? I didn't know another fit this car.
You are right, that seems to be the place for the pump and the last owner must have removed it and plugged it. Any thoughts on whether that is the right way to bypass that? Paging Steve Magnusson! The filter also came on it, its a Ferrari / Purflux 218429, which I think is from a later model Ferrari. I just looked it up and found it at Scuderia in Chicago for $40!
Not great, but not a disaster. Would be better to remove hose 45 from port 1 of the electrovalve 48. Plug the end of hose 45 and leave the port 1 of the electrovalve open to the atmosphere. This way the cutoff valves 30 will always be closed (which is their status for "air injection off" since you have no air pump present): https://www.ferrariparts.co.uk/diagram/ferrari/testarossa-tr-90/014-secondary-air-pump-and-lines-(for-us-and-ch88) Image Unavailable, Please Login
It was on the car when I received it and the PO had it serviced by a dealer prior. It has a good history, was at some concours events long ago and some good mileage on it, thus was driven, and seems to be fine.
Thanks Steve! Could this be contributing to my still existent poor and low rpm idle which I have yet to resolve?
Not likely IMO. Are you having a "poor and low rpm idle" during cold-running (water temp gauge reading less than ~155 deg after cold start-up) or warm-running (water temp gauge reading more than ~155 deg after cold start-up) or both?
I'd tentatively say "yes", but would like to do an autopsy on one. Unless it has a very special filter element design inside (like the Purflux 197654: https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/evaluation-of-purflux-oil-filter-ferrari-pn-197654-as-used-on-348-355-360-f50.357549), I'd guess that a Baldwin B255 would then also be an equivalent suitable substitution (and far less costly). If someone has an old Purflux 218429, and would send it to me, I'd be glad to examine and document its design.
Steve, If a used one doesn't come through I'll will happily buy a new one for this. I also have a new B255 as well. 4heid, Sorry to sidetrack your thread. For years this forum has tried to find an alternative to the UFI. At one point you couldn't buy them and then the price tripled once you could. Thank you for posting that picture.
Steve, As this is the first fluid change on my TR, I am removing the current filter today. Send me your address by PM and I will mail it over to you.
Raysur, no worries. I spent a lot of time trying to find filter cross references and like the task. If it works it will help everyone. I am sending the current one on the car, which has been used, over to Steve.
So far its been mostly cold start and I spent a lot of time a year or so ago going through everything, with a lot of your advice and replaced everything that could be related. I really feel its Jetronic related as I havent touched that at all yet.
Perfect -- PM sent. What are you using for the oil filter change? The stock TR UFI, another Purflux 218429, something else?
This time of year (summer), US TR cold starts can be a little sluggish/labored if the Throttle Time Switch has not gotten cold enough to reset closed. Have you confirmed that the Protection Relay is working (i.e., the red wire at the water thermoswitch on the water Y-pipe is +12V when the engine is running)? Almost unfortunately, if the Protection Relay isn't working, it can be (wrongly) tweaked up when warm to run fairly well as a K-Jet without Lambda -- but cold-running/cold-starting will be terrible. If the Protection Relay is working, have you measured the voltages on the unplugged O2 sensor single wires relative to ground (label things clearly so they don't get swapped around) at warm idle to see if the mixture adjustments are fairly reasonable?
Its been a while since I tested it but when I was last doing all of that work the relay was fine and I replaced the others in the small black box and replaced the O2 sensors. Which O2 wire are you stating to check? I am quite confident that the electrical was sorted and/or replaced a year ago.
Each O2 sensor has three wires: Two are in a single 2-pin connector -- these are just a +12V and ground signal to run an internal heater inside the O2 sensor (just leave this 2-pin connector always plugged in). The single wire with the spade connector is the output wire of the O2 sensor element: When the O2 sensor is cold = this signal on the single wire is meaningless. At warm idle with this single wire disconnected from the harness (ECU) = the DC voltage on this single wire from the O2 sensor, measured relative to ground (i.e., the bare engine block or cylinder head) will represent the air-fuel ratio: less than 0.5 VDC = lean; more than 0.5 VDC = rich. With this wire unplugged is how the mixture adjustment is made at warm idle -- a reasonable value would be 0.6~0.7 VDC (i.e., a little bit rich). At warm idle with this single wire still connected to the harness (ECU) = the DC voltage on this single wire, measured relative to ground, should be slowly "wandering" every few seconds from ~0.2 VDC (lean) to ~0.8 VDC (rich) if the system is correctly running closed-loop at warm idle as it should be. Even if you are not comfortable getting in and messing around with the mixture adjustment, you can always make these electrical measurements without affecting anything, and the results can clearly indicate if everything is a OKish or if things are way wacky.