Quick negative disconnect

I’ve thought about disconnecting mine at that plug but after 35 years I’m thinking it would probably open up a can of worms I really don’t feel like messing with. I purchased one of these off eBay last year, something like nine dollars and made in USA. Simple and gets the job done. My clock would continue to run and eventually drain the battery. Extremely happy with it Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

That's what it is. Works fine. Why not use it?

 

Yup that’s the disconnect (by the left headlight). Heckuva lot easier than removing the spare and doing it at the battery terminal.

 

That's indeed what it is, and very useful. I've used it countless times over the years during electrical maintenance - or long terms of not driving the car.

 

Good point. Forgot mine never seems to leave the garage or have the spare tire placed in it. Car has probably clocked 25 Miles in the last four years due to work schedule and traveling.

 

I use mine all the time, I always disconnect my ground everytime I park my car in the garage.

 

I disconnect mine every winter for storage and also, as others have stated, anytime I'm doing work where the battery should be disconnected. It's a very handy "feature!"

 

If I’m doing a deep clean on the headlights. I pop the headlights up and pull the negative slide connector apart to save the battery.

 

Was always kind of nervous to mess with this, thinking that maybe the plastic was brittle and cause more issues than what it was worth. So when you unsnap this can you just grab no top portion and pull? I’m assuming the other plastic section is secured to the chassis? Or do you need to have a hand on each end of the connector when you pull? (should put my coffee cup down this morning and just go out and try it LOL)

 

There's no clamp/release involved. Just firmly grasp the top half (where the braid enters the connector) with your fingers and pull up. The bottom half is bolted; you're not going to dislodge something in the process.

Re-inserting (on mine at least) requires exactly getting the top over the bottom in a perfect position. Sort of like a USB cable - it has a sort of "tab tolerance" requirement. If you have it right, the slots line on perfectly and it snaps firmly back down. If you don't have it lined up, you'll feel like it doesn't go back on - so don't force it, adjust your angle a bit until it moves home.

 

An alternative...
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I've used mine for 24 years

 

The quick disconnect is exactly the same function as a switch but with fewer parts - it is just joining or separating two "wiping" connections. A switch adds mechanical parts and two more electrical connections to perform the same function. For that matter, I suspect there is more electrical contact surface area in the quick disconnect than in a typical switch.

 

Ditto. Has been doing the same after every sortie, with both 328s, for the last 13 years. Never had the slightest problem. That would be something like one pull / one push on the "quick disconnect" 30 times each year.

Rgds

 

This was the reason for my concern. Have a Warren 8000 pound winch that I use for different vehicles and trailers etc. Has a similar plastic housing for the electrical connection and you can see the cable wires have pulled away from the plastic housing over the years. I’ve looked at it closely and have no idea how to remedy this as I see no way to remove the plastic case and install again correctly. This was the Image Unavailable, Please Login reason for the reluctance with pulling that 35 Year old connection on the Ferrari. Very glad to hear I won’t have the same outcome.

 

Should point out that this didn’t happen from me pulling on the cables instead of the connection when Disconnecting it .This happened from just the weight of the connection over the years pulling on the cables.

 

The switch has been in use since the late 90's. Never a problem. The OE sliding one was causing starter issues which was why I replaced it. I have the screw contact variety like the one pictured in the second post on my old Porsche. Battery there is easily accessible.

 

I was never crazy about that switch. So I removed it on my 89. Instead, I installed a new ground wire and a 90 degree turn-and-release switch, same one used on a 348 Challenge car. I also added two red and black terminals to the spare tire chamber wall so that jumping the battery would be an easier task. Almost never needed to use them.

 

Any brand preferences?

Looks like Moroso is typically the most expensive and seems to be the best quality from the pictures. Runs around $20. I'm skeptical about the unknown sun-$10 brands from Harbor Freight, Amazon, eBay, China, etc.

 

These guys have everything auto electrical.

CE Auto Electric Supply – Automotive Electrical Solutions

Battery Disconnect Switches – CE Auto Electric Supply

 

I guess it all depends on how or why you’re installing a battery switch. For anti theft purpose I use a simple flip switch the knocks out power to ignition and fuel pump. Under steering column and simple. For working on anything that requires killing the battery the factory neg slide plug is great. Besides using it helps keep the contact surfaces fresh and clean. Just saying .....

 

Same here. Unless I plan on taking my car out the following day, I unplug it every time I park it. 22 years and just installed my 3rd battery.


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Another + for this. I've been doing the same thing for over a decade and have never had to recharge or replace a red top battery. Only caution is don't burn your hand on the coolant pipes while disconnecting.