Electrical Gremlin?

I have an '01 360 Spider and have had a second accurance of an elctrical issue. While driving, the all the dash lights come on and ignition dies. The first time, a few months ago. I rolled to a stop and it restarted and thought it was a one off. Last night, twice the dash lights came on, the car kept going (even though I believe the ignition dies and came back) then some of the dash warning lights stayed on such as "Suspention Malfunction", What looks like a heated mirror indicator, This was after the soft top light and ASR flashed for a second or two. The second time, last night, I was just parking and the engine died and it went into "Neutral". I started it, finished parking and went into a restaurant for about 1 hour. Came out and drove home fine. No lights. Any ideas what would cause this? I might ad, that sometimes, when cold, I start it, turn the ignition on, then go to start and nothing. Key back to off and on again and starts fine. I don't think it's related but maybe an ignition switch?
Anyway, thoughts on the main issue? Common on 360's? A fix?
Thanks for any advice.

 

Yes, Ian. You may have hit on something. I normally have the car on a battery tender but I didn't for two days since I thought I'd drive it again. And, earlier in the day, I did what you shouldn't do and lowered the top without starting the car. I'm one of those guys that struggles between an extra start up without driving it and dropping the top without starting it. So, the battery could have been a little low, (but issue didn't happen till about 6 miles of driving).
Ray, I wish I saw your comment last night. I was thinking a week battery and decided to put it on the tender last night. But, I'll unplug it today and test after a few days of sitting.
I don't believe the battery is too old since the PO told me how much he paid for it (optima). But, some months back, one of the tender wires broke and the terminal that it was on was not very tight.
I'll test in a few days and post.
Thanks for the input. Much appreciated,
Bob

 

OK, I have some results. Maybe, not useful but, never the less. The car sat for a few days and I checked battery voltage today and is 12.62 volts. I started the car and now shows hovering around 14.50 volts so alt is working. After a few minutes, I shut the car off and now battery shows 12.9 volts. So, the alt added about 0.4 volts in a few minutes. The battery must have lost about 0.4 volts over a few days but, the first time, I lowered the soft top so would have lost more than that to "maybe" cause the issue. I'm not sure the age of the battery. It's difficult to get into the passenger seat, while the car is in the garage, I can only open the door about 12" and I have a project car on the other side. If I back out into the drive way, There's a car hauler on one side and another car on the other side, and same issue and I don't like to work on cars in the street. I'll check battery age when I have other cars moved out of the away.
Hum, the I48CS battery at $2400? I saw a post were it solves the problems on a 458. Or, you can get 8, $300 batteries that would last quite a while, or 23, $100 + batteries from Walmart. By the way, we have a 2013 911 that I got a Walmart battery for at $120. (which I heard have good reviews) and the car sits for two to three weeks at a time and starts up every time, for more than a year, so far.
So, I'll keep it on the tender and not open/close the soft top (without starting the car), and see what happens next time.
Thanks for the responses. I think you have hit on the right answer (or cause).
Bob

 

Wow! Some interesting facts on batteries that I never knew about. So, it sounds like an AGM battery is better than the standard Walmart unite, but maybe not as good as the $2400 battery. I see the AGM batteries in the $200 to $400 range so maybe, if I continue with this issue, I will go to as an option.
Having the car on a tender is not much of an issue for me. Kinda got used to it and didn't know there was another option. The car's been on the tender for a few days and thinking I'll take it to a wine pick-up-party next week. And, I put the top back up with engine running. That should be my test.
Thanks all, for the great info. So much knowledge in here.
Bob

 

UPDATE: I had a chance to test out my two day tended battery on the same route as last time. Half way home, dash lights came on and engine cuts out. It started up on it's own, since it was still in gear. Then it did it a few more times, seams to be at lower speeds, stopping at a light or pulling away from a light. A couple times it would turn off and on and causes the car to jerk a bit. I thought, I'd stop and get gas and see if it "reset", and backing up to the pump, it died and went to neutral. It continued all the way home (just a few miles). So, I will remove the battery and if both terminals are tight, I'll get a new one. If it's not the answer, I have a Porsche race car that currently has no battery so the old optima can go into that. Prefect!

OK, I've been researching batteries and there's so much, it's getting overwhelming. So, I look for the top AGM batteries and this one shows as "best".
XS Power D3400 XS Series 12V 3,300 Amp AGM High Output Battery with M6 Terminal Bolt
Raemin, does this one past the smell test? I can order off Amazon if I can't find it local, but we're going on a short vacation so when we get back.
Thanks for the help and advice.
Bob

 

Ops, I was confused about the AGM batteries thinking higher resting voltage was better. I did get the Optima out today and it's only 1 year old (photo). Connections seem firm and clean.
I've been searching for Exide, Bosch and Interstate and only fine AGM batteries. see below. All these fit a 360.
I'm guessing, these are not the first choice?
Thanks for hangin' in there.
Bob


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Chasing these gremlins seems to have made you a genius on batteries. You've supplied me with enough information were I think I can make a decision on my own. You've been more than patient and if your every in Northern California, drinks are on me. And if I'm every in France, drinks are on me. When were back from our trip, I'll research each battery, and I have a friend that works at an auto supply store and I'll see what they can get or I'll order online. I also have a friend that works at a race shop and I'll see what they use in their race cars or if they have connection to these batteries. They used to get support from the Porsche factory so I would think they have connections.
Again, I appreciate all that helped. I'll post results, in a week or two, when I get the new battery.
Bob

 

I finally have an update: I decided on a battery, from "Normal Guy, Super Car". A Ferrari Youtube guy that sells many Ferrari parts. They advertise an Antigravity battery that has a brain that, if there is a power drain, the battery goes to sleep. And, if the battery goes dead, there's a remote to push and it will start. And, it very light. So, I ordered it and it arrived a few days ago. Installed it and started the car. First of all, that occasional (when dead cold) start problem where you turn on the ignition, then go to crank the motor and "nothing". That didn't happen. I didn't drive it that day, just checking to make sure it worked. A few days later, started right up again and went for a short drive. All electrics work perfect. So, I have two prefect cold starts and one drive with no issues. I did notice one thing. Seems, the clutch, may have an electrical memory. It engages much slower than before. I'll research that over the next few days and I have a drive planned with friends, in a couple weeks.
Thanks to al that contributed. Seems, you got the right answer on the first try. Take care.


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I'm kind of under the impression, these batteries don't need a tender. Like the I48CS, it won't go dead. Since it's a "smart" battery, it supposed to go to sleep if there's a drain or something similar. Then, you have a remote that you push and then it will start your car. I will do more research from the place I purchased it and see what they say about tenders. But so far, I'm very pleased with it. For $750, it should do quite a bit.
I also, just learned how to do a "throttle Learn", which should reset the PIS on the clutch which seems to have been erased when the battery was disconnected.
Thanks for all the input on my post.
Bob