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Video is too large from ipad Bot on 5 volts it seems to match Ground was wrongly attached to back of plug bracket for sensor. reinstalled in correct place. I missed it when I fixed the head last winter would jumping the ground to negative in engine bay help Likely won’t hurt so I will try it then off to check wiring to ecu
Only think different would also be the cam trigger as this cam is off a 2.7 engine Not sure that should make a difference but they are different parts and do look different As I noticed when installing Mostly look the same but not necessarily the same material
Continuity is good between sensor and the ground which was reinstalled in its correct location I have the new sensor installed Will install good working old one and see if wave is the same
Wow that’s a live scope been alone time since I work with one of those can see the setting but correct me if I’m wrong. I see —— No delay —- ——- DC coupling—- ——-volt scale 5v —- ——-pos slope —- ——-trigger mode auto —— ——- time base of 5ms (but was only on the pic 1&2 looks like it changed on others ?)——- what I can’t see is —— trigger level (aka voltage that starts the trace) —— But what I do see is the the top trace is “ugly” to me is it possible to take a high/low reading of the voltage will it’s “on” to see how far the wave is floating this probably looks like that do to the cleaning Just like the ground and power supply the signal return has to be smooth Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat.com mobile app
I don’t know exactly how to use the scope as have had it for a long long time Yes correct on settings but don’t really know some of them Don’t know the trigger voltage but if adjust down to much it cuts out with no visual. the lead is set to 1 instead of 10x but it does not clean up the signal if on 10x
I think the ugliness of the top trace is due to the gouges in the trigger. Maybe I should polish it some more
not sure what your asking John the parts look to be the same shape but maybe different materials The new one looks to be solid brass the old one is not At least from memory I think yes I am calling that the trigger that the sensors sees
Just pointing out that they have different part numbers based on engine number. Would suggest there are differences. On the other hand, you said that the car ran fine for 3 months so what you is probably OK.
Why is the voltage so high? You have 5 volts/division. The wave seem to be close to 15 volts in post #33.
The "on" and the "off" lines of the sensor output square wave signal are not directly produced by the trigger (the reluctor attached to the camshaft) acting on the Hall element so irregularities in the trigger will not cause the ripples. The trigger, as it passes the sensor, will cause analogue change in the sensor's internal permanent magnetic field, this will cause analogue change (a sine wave) in the Hall Element output voltage which will, when it reaches a certain threshold, cause the Schmitt Trigger to switch "on". The sine wave may have ripples in it but they will not affect the square wave (on and off) output of the sensor (see pic below). The ripples in the square wave shown on the scope are probably due to not very clean DC voltage in the car's electric environment and the high sensitivity of scopes that picks up even tiniest disturbances in it. A bench test using a battery will probably show a clean square wave. Image Unavailable, Please Login A typical example showing how the Hall Sensor operates: Image Unavailable, Please Login Otherwise, the trigger has to be made of ferromagnetic material in order to cause change to the Hall sensor's magnetic field so it cannot be made of brass.
I'm having flashbacks to your engine meltdown. Wasn't there some debate on which codes referred to which sensors? Can you recall the code you're getting now? We seem to be getting off-track with noisy waveforms. If they are at the right amplitude and frequency, I'm sure the ECU can handle them.
I am thinking it has to do with one of the buttons I did not calibrate it and if I adjust the button I can change. The screen
Let me summarize: 1) You had a CEL for cam sensor. 2) Replaced sensor and once warmed up the car ran fine for 3 months. 4) Now it has problems. 5) As of today, cam sensor appears to be giving the correct signal and there is no CEL. Conclusion: The cam sensor is not the problem. Look elsewhere.
The first said you had a cel with cam phaser codes and you replace it after the warmed up it ran fine but now runs rough all the time I agree that it’s time to look pass the sensor and phaser for now go back to the basics if there’s no cel on check fuel delivery and spark and how do the plugs look If you have a cel on what is the code or codes Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat.com mobile app
i am thinking it’s not related as well after discussing with you guys. I actually used the old sensor all summer and car was mostly working. I will be checking plugs and coil. Maybe under high load something is not working new sensor was not installed until I saw the wave form and was hoping it would clean it up. could be a slow deteriorating of plugs maybe or coil. Will check Plugs on bank 2 look perfect. Will be checking bank 1
no I did not replace it, but after the engine warmed up the car worked all summer will get back to everyone after lunch
New plugs New coil pack old plugs looked good as John said think it’s unrelated cleared the cam sensor code went for a drive and no code yet. I remember once the hall sensor on the f1 transmission broke because I hit it on a speed bump and I am thinking it gave a similar error. When accelerating It would be jerky. going to check it and the wiring later this week. Thanks for all the help so far Need to find the post I had about 5 years ago although I did not hit it maybe the wiring is faulty from the engine out service.
