355 - Loud Rattle from Clutch Area | FerrariChat

355 Loud Rattle from Clutch Area

Discussion in '348/355' started by Qavion, Oct 27, 2021.

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  1. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    Hi, folks. I took my '98 F355 for a drive after 4 months of sitting in the garage. The engine felt a little wobbly and the exhaust seemed to have more bass than normal when I first started the car.
    A few kms down the road, the engine seemed to hesitate and there was some vibration. I stopped the car and I could hear a loud rattle coming from the clutch area. I shut down the engine and after letting the car sit for a while, I restarted the engine. The rattle seemed quieter. However, a few hours later, after another engine start, it came back just as loud.

    At first I thought the problems were related, but now I think I have a combination of problems, perhaps bad fuel, but also some kind of bearing problem(?). What's the part of the gearbox which doesn't like sitting a lot? The clutch only has 660km (400 miles) on it. It was replaced about 5 years ago. I recall there was a Hill Engineering release bearing in there, so I didn't have it replaced.

    I intend to put some new fuel in the car to see if there is any improvement in the engine (wobble and hesitation). I tested my spark plug lead tester for the first time and the test light flashed on each lead, but then I realised the light would illuminate even with the lead 3~4 inches away, so I don't know if it was picking up the spark from another lead. I let the engine cool down and then started the car again with the plug leads separated, but my tester failed on at least 6 cylinders, so the tester must have broken. On a subsequent drive, the engine lightly backfired on a gearchange. No CEL/SD lights. Some pending codes for cat efficiency and Idle Air Controller stuck closed. Codes cleared.

    Thanks for any suggestions.
     
  2. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    Actually, I'm not sure about the Idle Air Controller diagnosis. I seem to recall that the code was P1501 (will have to see if it comes back). The OBD2 scanner was in "Audi" mode and the code was undefined, so I put it in BMW mode (and it showed Idle Air Controller). I see the Ferrari 360 has a fuel pump relay problem as P1501. It could be something completely different on the 5.2 F355.
     
  3. MAD828

    MAD828 F1 Rookie

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    Not sure what the issue is Ian but for sure lack of driving it didn’t help! If you want bring it past I can have listen. We are neighbors after all.
     
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  4. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
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    Wait, 400 miles in 5 years? Clutches don't like sitting a long time. I sure hope they renew the Kluber grease when they did the clutch, did they? Was there a rattle when you shut the engine off?

    I do think you have multiple issues.

    If you remember the code correctly, then it's the fuel pump relay. At least change that out.
    Then remove and change the spark plugs (cleaning them is a waste of time).
    Check spark plug wires for impedance. If they are original, consider changing them.
    Get some new gas in there, with injectors cleaner (techron ?) in the tank.

    If the gearbox rattle does not stop, you have to remove the pumpkin and inspect.
     
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  5. Targatime

    Targatime Formula 3

    Feb 22, 2014
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    I would remove the access cover on the bottom of the pumpkin and look in there to see if grease is leaking out of the flywheel. Loss of Kluber grease can cause a rattle. You may want to post a video clip that shows the noise.
     
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  6. WATSON

    WATSON Two Time F1 World Champ
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    400 miles in 5 years? I did 411 miles one Saturday this summer. :)

    The engine miss could be something as simple as the ECU correcting after power loss. If the battery was off at anytime, you'll want to start the car and leave it idle until the temp gauges gets to mid point. Then drive it. Switch the battery off for awhile and the restart from cold and let it warm....then see what you get.

    Look closely at the plug wires. If they are dried out or cracked they could be arching in some weird way. Pull the plug wire covers and check the boots and maybe even check the plugs themselves.

    The clutch could be a bunch of things as noted. If it is making as much noise as you say, it might be best to just pull it out and take a look.
     
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  7. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    #7 Qavion, Oct 27, 2021
    Last edited: Oct 27, 2021
    Seems like an odd fault. Looking at the wiring diagram, the ECU would only be able to check the coil of the relay for resistance (and would the coil cause hesitation?)

    I seem to remember someone telling me to ignore "pending" faults. Anyway, I'll reset the fuel relay (or swap it if it there is a duplicate part number). I seem to remember they are hard to come by and have special properties (unless I'm confusing it with a 348 pump relay). e.g. https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/posts/145511692/

    Yes, the tech is excellent (almost all the cars he works on are Ferraris). He did my gearbox rebuild after the bearings failed. I can't recall if there was a rattle on shutdown. I'll check on the next drive.

    I probably should have mentioned that the gearstick sometimes jumps out of 2nd gear if I don't use a firm hand. Otherwise the car has been perfect for several years.

    I think they were replaced on the last major in 2018. I can't imagine they have done much work since then. I've probably driven the car less than 1000km in the 6 and a half years since I've owned it. I don't recall seeing Ferrari printed on the leads, so they are probably not original. Are they usually red? Mine are black.

    Sounds like a good idea. Do I need to remove any exhaust components to get the pumpkin off? I'll check for fluids in that area (although nothing on the garage floor). I'm assuming the car won't self destruct if I drive it 20 ~30 km to my tech if it's a grease problem?

    I haven't switched off the battery (also, it's a 5.2 so it shouldn't lose the data). Unfortunately, my garage is in an apartment "canyon" and there is a lot of echoing. if I run the car more than a minute, my neighbours complain.

    For info, the car has never been driven in the rain and is always garaged. The battery is less than 2 years old.

    Anyway, I'll go put some fresh fuel in. I use fuel preserver and injector cleaner on every service, but the service is a year overdue (due COVID).

    Thanks!
     
  8. WATSON

    WATSON Two Time F1 World Champ
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    To get the pumpkin off you will need to remove the rear bumper and the exhaust can which means the air boxes, MAF meter and exhaust cover as well. It's not bad, but it take some time.
     
  9. Targatime

    Targatime Formula 3

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    The inspection cover is a perforated plate on the bottom of the pumpkin held on with two 10mm (if I recall correctly) bolts. Nothing needs to be removed.
     
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  10. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    Thanks. Too easy.

    Thanks, Elliott. I'll let you know how I go with the basics, then call in the experts :D
     
  11. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    Small update:

    I don't really know what I'm looking at here, but it was dry as a bone inside the pumpkin

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    Couldn't be bothered putting the car on my Quickjacks, so had to take the photo via a mirror.

    The fuel pump relay ("N") seemed to fit tightly and there was no sign of burning. I swapped it with the Injector Control Relay ("M"), the same type (Bosch 0332019140). Probably not the best idea. The symptoms will probably be similar if one fails (but hopefully a different fault code).
    There doesn't seem to be anything special about the relays.

    If the weather holds, I'll top up the tank tomorrpw and go for a drive (and take a video of the noisy transaxle)
     
  12. taz355

    taz355 F1 Veteran
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    Plug wires are black in all cars I have seen
     
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  13. taz355

    taz355 F1 Veteran
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    You can remove the plug covers pretty easy and check plugs to see they are all the same. The rattle could be caused by a bad plug or wire and would be obvious by looking
     
  14. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    I saw lots of fiddly allen-headed screws on the cover... I think I'll take the car for a test run first. I'm guaranteed to drop one of those screws ;)

    I've already put some injector cleaner in the tank. If I remember, I'll check the clutch fluid level before I go for a drive.
     
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  15. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    OK, in the spirit of FChat... I just pulled one spark plug. It looks like it just came out of the box. Is that a bad sign? :p

    I think it's the first time I've used my expensive spark plug puller and plug socket.
     
  16. Qavion

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    Spark plug inspection on hold... Just realised I haven't got a torque wrench which goes down to 9.8Nm.
     
  17. m.stojanovic

    m.stojanovic F1 Rookie
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    Before you start digging-in, I suggest you first rule out engine detonation which can often sound as if something is rattling/ringing in the engine. A test with fresh fuel and no additives (like stabilizers) should tell you.

    On my 348, I recently tried, via the CO screw on the MAF, to make the idle mixture leaner on the left bank hoping to equalise the small difference I had in the EGTs left to right. As I had wrong info at the time, I increased the pot resistance thinking that it would make the mixture leaner. Started the engine and it suddenly produced a fairly loud metallic rattling sound. After I put the pot's resistance back to its original value, the "rattling" immediately disappeared.

    The reason for the rattle was that, by increasing the pot resistance I actually made the mixture richer which, combined with rather old petrol I had in the tank, caused detonation in the left bank.

    In your case, if it really is engine detonation, it may be caused by stale petrol (and additive, if you used any) or, perhaps, stuck FPR due to sitting causing rich running. Another thing that can be affected by stale petrol, moisture in the tank and long sitting is the fuel pump so listening to its sound and/or checking the fuel pressure would also be a good diagnostics step.
     
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  18. taz355

    taz355 F1 Veteran
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    thise allen heads stick in quite a ways as long as they don’t stick to the wrench like one of mine did once.
     
  19. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    I took the cover off the right bank again and the spark plug tips looked fine. I did notice on some plugs that there was some oil on the top of the threaded section. I can't figure out how oil could get there.

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    There didn't seem to be any oil past the spark plug seal. The central part of the thread was dry.

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    The rubber boots looked dry.

    Sorry for the thread creep.
     
  20. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    Short video of rattle here:

    https://youtu.be/66H8UcL9OSQ

    After swapping relays, my hesitation has disappeared (not sure it is coincidence or not). No further pending/active faults after two drives. I'll try to find some replacement relays just in case.
     
  21. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
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    That does not sound good. You need to remove the pumpkin to inspect.
     
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  22. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    I'm trying to figure out what could be rattling.

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    The clutch plate is new.

    I recall the release bearing is a Hills Engineering part, but I've ordered a new one anyway. I've ordered some additional bearings 6 & 11, but it could be long wait.

    I just hope it's nothing further forward. I've already replaced half my gearbox.
     
  23. 308 GTB

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    Ian.,

    I once had a sound like that coming from my clutch housing. It turned out to be the rear bearing (#11). All the balls were out of the cage...


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    This happened at Watkins Glen a few years ago. Everything was fine on the track. When I pitted in, I heard the same noise your video displays. It got progressively worse by the time I reached the garage. I heard the racket it made over the Challenge exhaust!

    The throw out bearing was OK.

    Barry
     
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  24. Qavion

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    Thanks, Barry... crossing my fingers that's all it is.
     
  25. 308 GTB

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