I really don't know. Although it is shown and mentioned in the graphics and text in the Workshop Manual, the two wiring diagrams in that same pdf manual do not show it. I don't have any paper wiring diagrams for the F1 cars. When you get the new part, would you be able to tell me how many pins are on the sensor? If it only has a couple of wires, it should be easier to trace the wiring to the TCU. One wire may be for power (from the 20 amp/yellow fuse in the passenger footwell .. via the TCU Supply Relay).
Alright ladies and gentlemen. There was just enough frayed wiring left on the original sensor that I was able to make connections. I just had to know, and sure enough, the moment I connected them, the car went right into gear. It was that sensor the whole time. Lesson learned and now my entire F1 system is refreshed. I wonder if ricambi can over night me one. Lol.
Kinda. I have one in stock, and could ship tomorrow --- but I don't think the reality of FedEx is that they'd deliver on Monday (we could try?). More than likely it would start moving on Monday for Tuesday delivery. https://www.ricambiamerica.com/168729-sensor.html .
I already looked it up and I called you right when I found it. But you were closed. I got it running, just went for my first cruise. I soldered the wires back together with surgical perfection. However, I need a new one. I just ordered the the other sensor from you on Wednesday I think? It got here today. So I’ll just order this one with standard shipping. Glad you got one in stock and I found your website. Grateful to find a US based supplier. Everything I’ve ordered so far came from Italy, UK and Germany. I’ll also be ordering my 30k mile service kit you have. I plan to do the service in January. I want to put some miles on it first. Thanks, man!
So I just got to drive my 355 for the first time in excellent running condition. All I can say is WOW!!! I wasn’t actively looking for a 355. This car was local and a friend owned it. But the offer he made was irresistible. Preferably, I wanted a manual, but the more I read about the F1 system the more I became intrigued by it. It’s totally awesome. I’ve never had a paddle shift car. I’ve driven several PDK Porsches vw. This thing is fantastic. Easy to work on as well. Provided you’re familiar with how it works. This is my first F-car, was a little out of my element with the brand and definitely the F1. FINALLY I got to have the full experience and it’s totally awesome. In sport mode it shifts FAST and precise. Felt as if I was controlling the car and WOT in a straight it shifts perfectly to how I would of done it myself. I’m blow away to be honest. I thought it would be lethargic, but it’s not at all. I’m really glad I bought this car now. Additionally, I read lots of post while trying to figure this out. It seems a lot of people are quick to comment and bash the F1 cars, or repeat stuff they may have heard. Always making it sound catastrophic. But a majority of the post I’ve read, almost every thread it ended up being a simple solution. Had I known about that sensor under the transmission and that it worked in correlation with the TCU, I’d of had this car fixed the first week I owned it. I gained a lot of experience this round, and there’s nothing very complicated about the system nor this model. Thanks for everyone input! Cheers! Dave.
well that's a good sign at least you found a no **** issue with that sensor decapitated. Keep that speed sensor I had an intermittent failure with my F1 car and it's no fun when it's not working.
Congrats man! and i was also stunned by how cool the F1 is and i'm always a 100% manual guy..i have a GTS F1 and the more i drive it the more i like it, was planning on converting to manual but now its unlikely. (My F1 does have a problem, 90% of the time won't downshift from 3rd to 2nd ) and shop its at can't get their machine to talk to the F1 system for some reason to figure fault , so now waiting on another machine ;(
Thanks, man! I also thought about it, but as long as it stays functional, I wouldn’t be any happier. I’m new to it, but already a big fan. Watson had a similar issue with downshifting in his F1. The accumulator turned out to be bad. Have you ever replaced yours? Does it shift up from 2nd to 3rd with out issue? That sucks. Hopefully it’s something trivial.
yup shifts 2nd 3rd no problem- the issue is from 3rd down to 2nd i also noticed the trans light never comes on when i start the car like others say theirs comes on for about 10 secs..sometimes when the car is trying to downshift from 3rd 2nd that light flashes but then goes away
I wonder if it has anything to do with same sensors I was dealing with. The Leonardo they used to patch me up wouldn’t communicate either. I had read a thread about a guy who bottomed out his 355 and broke the same sensor that was messed up on mine. Except his continued to drive. Mine wouldn’t. Perhaps the symptoms vary a little from year to year. Or 2.7 to 5.2 Now I have a extra accumulator, trans output sensor and clutch position sensor. All from throwing parts at it. If you were closer we could swap out a few things and see if it fixes it. When all else fails type of situation. I went for another drive tonight. I couldn’t help myself. Now one of my headlights won’t open. I had to open it manually. I hope these cars aren’t one of those non-stop fixing things type of deals. Haha.
Congratulations on getting the car sorted. That’s great that you enjoyed your first real drive and was better than expected. All F1 cars are 5.2. I wouldn’t convert one of these cars unless there was a part that was unobtainable and preventing the car from being functional and if I did I would keep all the parts. If I remember correctly they did’t make a lot of these, so that is another reason to keep it original.
I was getting pretty frustrated trying to sort it out. So the thought of converting it definitely crossed my mind. It’s only a few hours of labor and doesn’t alter the car any. I’d of kept all the original stuff. Now that it’s sorted I absolutely love it.
The winking headlight. You need a new motor. Be extra careful. There is a right, and a left one. And they are $1,000 each.
Shotgun approach for single pod failure for DIY-ers (based on ease): replace fuse L/R relay swap check for mechanical linkage failure between pod and motor-gearbox (yours is ok if you can lift the pod) clean main electrical connectors replace motor/gearbox... or... dismantle motor-gearbox assembly and remove corrosion from gearbox internal metal contact disk, check for broken electrical contacts (fingers), check for broken gearbox plastic teeth, check diode, remove crusty gearbox grease and re-lube, etc. Fault based on guestimate statistics (highest probability first): Gearbox corrosion/failure. Diodes main electrical connector corrosion Relay Fuse (but that is probably due to to a faulty motor/gearbox) Motor Pod to Motor/Gearbox mechanical linkage mis-adjustment. Plenty of message threads on this topic. How you approach the problem depends on the symptoms.
I have already attempted everything on the list last night. Other then disassemble the motor. I should mention both head lights worked great! I took it to Cleveland on a trailer to be programmed, which didn’t fix it. But I left it on the trailer all week outside. It rained 3 days straight. I had the cab and motor covered. But the headlights got rained on. Figures.
Yes that will make the car jerk and not shift properly This is likely your problem That is the sensor I damaged on mine
Something is up with your pressure system. From cold, put the key into position I and you should see the transmission light flash. Count them. This is low pressure warning. You should also hear the pump running. The light will stop flashing and the pump will run for a bit past that until the system reaches full pressure. The difference between the light going out and the pump stopping is the operating pressure range of the system. The accumulated pressure is what runs the system. As the shift are made, the accumulated pressure is used and the pump will run to restore the pressure. If the pump can not keep up you get the low pressure warning light and shifts will become inconsistent if not impossible. https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/f1-accumulator-bulb-replacement-procedure.555260/
I don't get the flashing trans light or any trans light at all when turning key into pos 1 - The only time i get the flashing trans light is "Sometimes" when its trying to downshift from 3rd to 2nd and can't...
You should. Moving the key to position I engages the pump and pressurization starts. The transmission light flashes as it builds pressure to the proper level.
