83 Mondial QV - EV conversion project using Tesla LDU

Well, this is certainly educational. The spare tire was one of the first items I removed so with plenty of room up front now, I hadn't considered the packaging. Kind of makes sense now.

If you folks get the chance, what can you tell me about my other questions? Thanks in advance.

 

Yeah, im going to buy them. I didnt think i would be diving into the electrical bits so soon but while im in the cabin pulling mechanical bits, i might as well strip out the unneeded stuff.

Thanks for your answers

 

Earlier this week, I cleaned up what I believe to be the last bits of stuff I need to remove from the car for the EV conversion. The only stuff that's unnecessary for the EV conversion that remains on the car is the engine wiring harness from the driver's side of the engine bay and leading towards the dash, fuse box, and center console area. I left it in place just in case I decided to repurpose the wires for the EV stuff as the wires are already run front to back. I did the same with the powered antenna control wires that were run on the passenger side.

Some observations
- Some previous owner really liked their stereo equipment... and then paid someone to booger up the install. While the 1DIN receiver is a nothing-special JBL/JVC/whatever that is modern enough to have BT support, I was surprised to find two "old school" RoDEK 435i 150W amp 4ch stereo amps and a 2/3 way Rodek RX300 crossover just to deal with 2 speakers and 2 tweeters. While I might have kept that in, the wiring looks like it was done by someone who had never heard of a soldering iron or heatshrink tubing. I found nothing short of 5 crimp on connectors between one splice into the factory harness and one of these modules. Pretty terrible so I gutted it all and I'll do it over again if necessary. I'll list the components with the other take-off parts whenever I list what I have for sale if anyone is interested in "period correct" stereo equipment. If not, I may just redo the work properly.
- I also found that the vacuum line running from the brake booster goes into the cabin, down to the wall of the driver's side footwell, and back along the side next to the wiring harness. This was easy enough to remove once I drilled out two rivets holding a small composite panel on the left side of the driver's footwell.
- Next, I decided to unbolt the panel protecting some electronic modules in the passenger footwell.
I confirmed the bottom two were for the catalytic converter control module; they were also the endpoints of the two steel braided wires I found in the engine bay (they went to thermocouples). Those I removed and will list for sale.
- Finally, I started assembling my list of parts available for sale and will post them after the holidays. I'll throw the list up here along with pics and will likely put some up on eBay as well.
- Finally, I started looking at more components to buy. I will either tackle the brakes (specifically the pedal assembly -> brake master cylinder -> stock lines AND/OR the shocks (QA1 coilovers) next while I wait for parts from the EV supplier (electricgt).
- Oh, I got my new wheels/tires. After a slight snafu picking the wrong tires, what I have now match the stock diameter/width pretty well despite being 18s and the stance is not overly aggressive (right at the fender line). I will take final pics today after I get the two 9mm spacers I ordered for the back end.
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I haven't decided/figured out if I need the remaining 4 boxes (and 1 speaker mounted on the other side) on the panel post EV-conversion. I know the Bosch module is for the blower control (which will remain until I decide if I'm going to replace this system entirely or just keep the blower and replace the AC.
However, the red module and the black rectangle are unknowns to me. Perhaps some of you folks can shed some light for me as to what they do.

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Happy Holidays everyone.
-g

 

Thanks AB! I'll check out the wires and report back when I get the chance.

Wheel Fitment Recap
I ordered these wheels for black friday and decided to go ahead and get some tires at the same time.

Shopping List
(4) Fifteen52 Chicane Wheels in Silver 18"x8.5" +45mm offset: $300MSRP ($247+tax on special)
https://fifteen52.com/collections/street-wheels/products/super-touring-chicane-speed-silver?variant=15223276503106
(4) Pirelli Pzero 225/40R18 tires $146.90/shipped each on special
https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Pirelli&tireModel=P+Zero+%28PZ4%29&partnum=24YR8PZ4XLV3
(20) M14x1.5 x 45mm shank length wheel bolts $33
- Stock wheel lug bolts have too large a head to fit these wheels so I needed smaller ones. This shank length works well with these wheels even with the spacer.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B094JDJT5X/
(2) 9mm thick 5x108 spacers - $12 on special
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08C2LCNR3
(4) 73.1mm OD, 67.1mm hubcentric rings
Need to DIY because the ones I bought from ebay flare out too much and stick out of the wheels. You definitely need these for the rear to hold the spacers in a centered position.

Lessons Learned
My first snafu was in calculating the right tire size to match the overall diameter to when moving to 18s.
- Until I mounted my first set of tires, I didn't realize that my mondial came with 220/55VR390 tires in the front and 245/55VR390 tires in the back as I pulled the stock wheels/tires off the car almost immediately.
- My first choice in tire dimension (245/45R-18) more closely matched the 245/55VR390 tires in OD and width; these were too tall for the front.
- Luckily, tirerack is taking them back without drama so all I was out was $50 worth of mount and balance labor @ Wheel Works.
- The 225/40R18 tires are a great match vs the 220/55VR390 in term of OD (both are 25.1") and section width. (8.5" vs 8.9").
- At first, I was worried they would be too stretched on the 8.5" wheel. However, if you look at the width of the sidewall (how much farther it sticks beyond the tread surface), its no worse than the stock metric tires.

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From a stance/width perspective, these wheels are aggressive without going the whole lowrider/jeep look. I knew a kid who went to positive on his aftermarket 17s on his Accord in college; the goofiness of how much they stuck out still haunts me today.
When fitting the wheels, I had to remove the screws that hold the rotor to the hub as they interfered with the spacers. I plan to countersink and install flat headed screws on these rotors (or whatever rotors decide to go with).
As it stands, the face of the wheels sit right at the edge of the fender.


- In the front, the wheels sit right at the fender line. No need to roll the fenders or slap on overfenders (while I do find the Liberty Walk 308 kit look fascinating, I'm not paying that kind of money to cut a kit up and I want this to be more of a sleeper build.
- In the back, I did find I needed the 9mm spacer because without it a) the wheel would be too far inwards and b) the 45mm shank wheel bolts are too long.
Finally, I WILL need to use hubcentric rings on the car: definitely on the back to center the spacers and very likely on the front as well. The first set I bought from Amazon actually stuck out of the wheels by ~1mm. Since I'm already at the fender face, I didn't want the wheels to stick out any more so I will just need to fab these sometime.

Overall, I'm pretty happy with the look.
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NOTE: The front wheel is at full drop. At stock ride height, it will fill the fender gap more. I did just order QA1 parts so i will be able to adjust ride height; living in SF though I'm not likely to drop this car to the pavement though.

The rears have no shock assembly installed so I have a stool underneath to hold the wheel approximately at resting height. I did actuate the wheel at the full limit of movement (more than a shock would ever allow) and tucks up in the rear fender wells nicely.

 

Wires to the Red Module
Afterburner
I see the following wires
* Blue w/ Black qty2
* Blue
* Purple w/ Black qty2
* Blue w/ White
* Brown
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I think you are right that its the fasten seatbelt ECU. Looking at the wiring diagram though, I don't think I need it unless I want to keep this functionality.

I need to delve into this more deeply but the things I care about keeping at this point are merely the window operation, the turn signals, the headlights, the horn, the wipers, and the brake lights. The stereo already seems to be wired in with an aftermarket harness and new wires going straight to the speakers.

everything else is optional: I will eventually want the HVAC to work again but will need to replace the heater and the AC compressor elements. Whether I keep the stock Ferrari HVAC controls and blower or replace it with something from Vintage Air or similar is TBD.


I wonder if it makes more sense to build my own harness and a newer fuse panel instead of hacking apart the stock harness and fuse panel.
This stuff exists for not much money and I will be having to lay in CANBUS wiring anyway for the EV drivetrain.
https://www.amazon.com/Painless-30001-ATO-Fuse-Center/dp/B00062Z5YI/ref=asc_df_B00062Z5YI/

Worth thinking about as this project progresses.

 

Sure. I'll take more detailed pics and see about removing it from the panel tonight/tomorrow morning.

 

Thanks Steve; sounds like I don't need it for my car. No EGR, no need for a tachometer relay
Your comments also pretty much confirm that I need none of this stuff for my car except maybe D "control unit for Air conditioner" (if i decide to keep the stock unit operational) and F "timer for passenger's compartment lights").

On the part itself.
Red box, embossed with "Ferrari", part number 112198 on it.
4 different colored wires in an X-shaped connector on it.
Following the wires upstream leads to three more connectors on the same removable panel:

Brown/Black and Blue/Black goes upstream to a 3x3 plug
Purple/Black goes upstream to a 3x5 plug
Blue/Black and Purple/Black goes to a Red 2x2 plug

Googling for the part number says this part was also used on 308 GTB/GTS models as well
https://www.allferrariparts.com/112198.html

 

I think you may be right... which brings up a related issue.
1) I already suspect I will simplify/modernize my wiring by replacing this stock fuse panel with a more compact, modern one and to just wire up the circuits I need.
2) Heating element and compressors aside (both exist as 12V systems and I will have a DC-DC converter in my EV but 400V -- the same voltage as my battery pack -- systems are more energy efficient and are available as well).

Q: In order to actuate my HVAC flaps though, I will need a vacuum pump/reservoir, won't it?

This brings up a related issue: EV Conversion of brakes...

Right now, I have the braking system off the car: pedal assembly and vac booster/brake master cylinder.
Two options to solve this problem:

OPTION 1: Reuse the stock vac booster and install a separate 12V pump w/ reservoir
Pros: saves weight, perhaps easiest to do (just modify the stock pedal assembly to pull off the clutch pedal/clutch master), run a hose from the vac reservoir to the brake master and install a 12V vacuum pump. I need to research my options but plenty exist from $200-600

https://www.evcreate.nl/vacuum-pump-power-brakes/

Questions:
- The stock master cylinder/reservoir seems to have two reservoirs mounted: one for the brake system and one for the clutch master.
- I haven't messed with it much but are these two reservoirs in the same housing completely independent or are the linked?
- In other words, should I just be able to plug off the connection from the clutch master (won't exist anymore) at the reservoir and not have to worry about my hydraulic fluid for the brakes (which I DO care about) bleeding out?

OPTION2: Replace the stock vac booster with one that has an integrated 12V pump from Bosch (used on the Tesla)
- This seems the most elegant, most lightweight option.
https://www.evcreate.nl/installing-the-ibooster/
- Similar pricing to a quieter 12V vac pump.
- I need to confirm if it does have an accessory vacuum take-off; I don't think it does but I will check with some EV nerds.

VARIATION1: Replace the stock pedal assembly with a more lightweight one from an established company (aka not Wish.com junk) like AP Racing or Wilwood.
- Stock setup is surprisingly heavy. Maybe 10-15LB?
- At first, i thought this would be fairly easy as I could easily fabricate a sturdy plate and bolt it over the hold for the pedal assembly.
- The challenge is that I didn't find many/any top mount pedal assemblies (most mount on the firewall); best I could find would be a floor mount pedal that would be mounted upside down. Between the necessity of making sure the geometry works (aka the pedal is tilted in the right direction) OR building a bracket to hold the pedal from the back AND the necessity of running a remote reservoir (since I don't want the liquids in the passenger footwell), this idea seems like its not worth pursuing to drop a few pounds.
You folks agree?

 

Q: While I'm going through things, can you folks think of anything else that might want vacuum in this car besides the HVAC flaps and the brake booster? I can't think of anything else (not power steerring or wipers on this car, thankfully).

 

Just integrate this into your mondial. Problem solved

 

I haven't fully mapped this out but my reasoning for going through the wiring and/or replacing the fuse box goes like this:
1) The stock fuse box board, as a working unit, still has value to others. For me, its a part that will eventually go bad, uses fairly expensive (compared to alternative) relays, and will require a premium to replace/rebuild that I don't want to pay as noone is going to give me points for keeping the car stock.
https://redbaycars.com/webshop.html#!/products/remanufactured-fusebox-board-for-mondial
https://www.ferraripartsexchange.com/products/fuse-board-119019

In comparison, a modern aftermarket fuse panel uses bosch relays and can run $150-300, depending on # of circuits and if I want the harness with it.
https://www.amazon.com/Painless-30001-ATO-Fuse-Center/dp/B00062Z5YI/

3) Furthermore, in going through the documentation for the EV ECU (https://www.aemev.com/files/instructions/AEMEV_VCU200_Product_Description_RevG.pdf)
there are several circuits that I will want the VCU200 to control directly:
- oil pump, cooling fans x2, cooling pumps x2 will be new EV-specific circuits so I might as well have the VCU control them.
- reverse lights (only the VCU will know when the car is in reverse) and maybe brake lights (need to think about this one as it could also remain stock) will require adaptation from the stock wiring.

The VCU200 also has the ability to directly drive some other circuits (like the headlamps). I need to determine if this has value for me (one less relay) or if I should keep this stuff stock (I'm leaning towards stock b/c theres both the motor assembly AND the lights to power).

NOTE: before ripping out the engine wiring wholesale, I'm going to need to decide where I will place the VCU200 (passenger footwell, front trunk, or rear trunk). Looking at what wires go into the engine compartment and rearwards, I only need the stock taillights, the radio antenna wiring, and the signal to release the trunk solenoids to remain in place. It does seem that some of this wiring is all wrapped up so I may want to pull out the harness, remove the extra wires, and then re-wrap it.
However, if the VCU200 ends up living in the passenger footwell/front of the car, I will need several wires going backwards.

Instead, I suspect I may just place the VCU200 near where the digiplexes used to live.

4) While I haven't made a full survey of the wiring changes necessary, I believe I will keep the following circuit wiring as found in the car: stereo (meh, looks like the previous owner ran separate wiring for the speakers so I would need to trace this stuff and see what works), horn, wipers, HVAC, windows, door/trunk/frunk releases, any interior lights, and maybe the headlights.

5) I DO plan to remove the Check Control Module as that spot in the central console can be physically repurposed for a more useful task.
Reasoning: of the circuits its supposed to monitor, the only one which would be really useful in an EV would be the bonnets sensor, the stop lights, AC operation, and maybe the lights. I can live without all of them.

Now, I need to trace all of the wiring related to the CCM. I'm not 100% on this part but in looking at just a circuit or two, I don't think the wiring is necessary as its a separate wire from whatever item is being monitored to the CCM and then to the lights. Therefore dropping the CCM won't "break" anything (aka prevent the stop lights, AC, or bonnet release from working).

I will check though because I HAVE encountered situations in other cars where removal of a gauge or absence of a signal from a gauge caused an unexpected issue. In my tbird lemons car, I swapped a 5.0 V8 into a V6 car which never came with this engine (95 cars only had 3.8L V6, 3.8L V6SC, or 4.6L V8s as an option). The problem was that the 5.0 V8 engine's alternator was actually expecting a signal from the 90-93 gauge cluster in order to tell it to charge. My 95 cluster didn't supply this signal so my battery would eventually die a slow death on the track. Took a while to figure that one out and was solved by giving the alternator the 12V signal it wanted to see.

 

Batteries will only add 100LB to the car since I'm taking out the engine, transmission, AND fuel tanks.
I read up on the EV conversion websites and it seems that people tend to go with the ibooster option when there is no other requirement for vacuum, they decide to go without HVAC, OR they address HVAC with a more all-in-one restomod AC kit

In researching what the electricGT guy (Eric) did with his 308, I wanted to better understand why he went with aftermarket pedals, master cylinders, and rotors. I believe his is a full manual setup.
Once I realized I need vacuum for the HVAC flaps and that still remains something on my radar, I decided to go with the "modify the stock box" and add a Vacuum pump route.

---
BTW, another challenge that is a little more unique to the EV conversion that I researched this week is that there is no gearbox to lock up when you place the Tesla LDU motor in park (unlike a traditional automatic). You need an aftermarket electronically controlled brake to keep the car from rolling around even with the power shut fof.

Eric's solution was to add a Wilwood Electronic Parking Brake setup (with calipers) https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-140-15979-rd alongside a custom mounting bracket and aftermarket rear calipers. The reason was because in his setup, the stock ebrake cabling interfered with his porsche G50 transmission and 3xAC50 motor setup.

I believe in my setup, the Tesla LDU will be more compact and be mounted ABOVE the subframe rails -- therefore freeing up room for a remote ebrake kit like
https://www.amazon.com/American-Shifter-495-Remote-Emergency/dp/B005R927XW/
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/E-Stopp-ESK001-Electric-Emergency-Brake-Kit-With-Cable-Bracket,417658.html

If I DO decide to upgrade the brakes in the future, selling off this component will not be that big a deal (its not a huge investment).
Realistically, I would only upgrade the rear rotors if I already decided to upgrade the front ones.