Possible 328 purchase

I’m thinking of buying my first Ferrari and considering a 88’ 328. It has 84k miles and a major service was done at 79k but this was 7 or 8 years ago. After driving it the engine ran very smooth and started right up. The issues I observed were , not wanting to go into 2nd gear, and a noticeable squeal from the right side possible wheel bearing. Also, the parking brake lever wasn’t working at all, not sure where the break was located. Other little interior bits I would probably replace but the overall condition was pretty good. Any thoughts or concerns I should know about would be appreciated.

 

Honestly, you didn't give us a tin of info but 3 things I would point out are:

1. You will need to get a major done. Its way better to be safe given the time frame than to lunch the engine
2. The wheel bearing squeek should 100% be taken care of and shouldn't be a big deal but make sure its not a seized break caliper first. Rebuilding breaks for these cars the rught way is unfortunately exceptionally expensive (more than a major by a fair bit).
3. Not liking second is normal when cold. If you get everything nice and warm and are still getting issues that could be quite an annoying problem to fix depending on whats causing it (wear will be easier to fix than a poor rebuild most likely)

Other than that, a 328 sounds like an awesome first fcar.

 

I’d have to see what was done in the major service but with only 5k on it regardless of the 7-8 year thing, I’d be most interested in an oil change, brake flush and A/C charge. I got one in a similar service history situation which was all good but the crankshaft pulley bolt “walked out” and when that had to be replaced they did a belt service while they were in there but the belts looked fine. As far as second gear, that’s normal till it warms up a bit. I subsequently did a gearbox service and they used a 75w90s spirax S5 ATE-N gear oil and when I got it back it shifts into second right away now. So, it’s totally normal but there’s a suggestion for you if you want to try that down the road. As far as the wheel bearing, you might want to inspect your brake pads first. I had a similar situation and found that that was the real issue. New pads and squeak was gone. The handbrake obviously calls for an inspection there!

 

I would also replace the motor mounts . Im not sure if your gear oil is full synthetic, I use shell or redline full syn gear 90 weight oil. I use valvoline 20/50 race , mineral oil with zinc, not that the zinc matters, my car has 104 K miles over my 22 years of ownership. It runs as good as it did with 20k miles. As far as the AC goes, I dont think a re charge is going to happen, no more R12, so your going to need a full rebuild of the system( ac hoses ) to accept the R134, at least thats what I had to do, I also had to buy a new Sanden compressor. Some guys on Ebay have R12 for sale, well that was about 3 years ago, Im not sure about now. Good luck with the purchase.

Thank you

 

Buy the best 328 you can find: it's always the best deal. This one doesn't sound to be that.

ciao

 

Thanks for the replies. I’m going to ask for more details today. The more I think about the squealing noise it does make more sense as a brake issue since it was the same noise at any speed. Not sure why A/C was brought up, I didn’t say that wasn’t working.

 

I use nothing but R12 in the older cars. Have no issues getting it. I have about 120lbs of it in stock now.

 

Thats pretty cool, the shop that put my AC back together didnt want to use the R12 that I bought from Ebay, so I got stuck with the R134. They were afraid of getting in trouble.

Thank you ,

 

If the tech has a 608 certification, there's no legal risk of dealing with R12. Having said that, part of compliance means handing the R12 in legal, correct ways with the proper equipment - and a lot of shops either don't have that equipment any longer, nor outsourced disposal channels to offload the R12 to. Given the few number of cars still using it, it's not worth the hassle unless most of your business involves antique cars.

 

Eh, I think there is a sweet spot. The cheapest car tends to be a disaster but timecapsul cars often aren't the best idea if you want a driver either. Tbh I prefer to buy cars that have been driven and maintained. So long as everything is there and it was properly looked after you're probabaly fine.

Fwiw, same noise and level at every speed doesnt sound like a break issue. Tbh idk what that sounds like but break squeel will 100% change with speed (sometimes increasing sometimes even going away at higher speeds depending on what the issue is)

This is exactly it. R12 is legal but there are very few shops that can legally handle it. Even more so in a state like California which heavier restrictions. Tbh, I move most of my cars iver 134 when its time for a rebuild of the system to less hassle, but if you already are working on a weaker system (like an f-car or even a lot of lancias) the extra boost from r12 can certainly help if it was stock

 

Antique cars? Like 95's? All true but not reality. The simple fact is the industry found out its more profitable to just do R134a. The new freon R1234yf makes R12 look cheap.

 

Not true. The requirements in California for using R12 is excatly the same as for R134a. In California I could place an order for a pallet of 30 pounders of R12 and have it before lunch. I try and buy R12 here in Texas and you'd swear I just asked for a kilo of blow. It is far more difficult and expensive here in Texas operating under Federal rules. .

 

I have been in the Ferrari business for over 40 years and own a 328. The best car you can buy will be the cheapest you can own.

 

The problem isn't buying it though. Its legaly working with it. You need propper recycling system that are not compatible with similar systems used for more modern refrigerants. If caught working with r12 comercialy without the propper procedures in place you can get big fines or even have your license pulled

Edit: either way though. The point still stands that while r12 is doable still its not just a "pop down to the local shop for a recharge" anymore

 

The equipment requirements are exactly the same for any refrigerant gas in autos in California. I am licensed in both California and federally. California law on that dates back to 2003. If you can legally use any gas you can legally use R12.

It is about profit, not regulations. The fact remains, despite regulation R12 use is more common in California than other states. A lot of shops still use it in cars designed for it because it works better.

In Texas I convert cars back to R12 regularly.

 

Going to have an inspection done on Wednesday, I’ll post the results. You guys can get back to your r12/r134 discussion.

 

Antique... vintage... well, not modern.

R1234yf is a nightmare, in terms of cost of refrigerant. And the modern systems I've dealt with pretty much suck as well... incredibly touchy and prone to leaks. Whether it's poor manufacturing, or the mechanical/system pressures associated with that refrigerant - either way, completely a cluster frack.

 

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As noted, that 2nd gear behavior is normal when cold. In fact, I just read a 1986 magazine review of the 328 and they noted that all the way back then when the 328 first came out. Same for the 308. Give it 10 minutes of driving to warm up and it should be fine (in the meantime, skip 2nd and go into 3rd or try double-clutching).

Are you familiar with the way the park brake lever works? It can be confusing to first timers. It will swing freely so that you can put it down out of the way for ingress/egress after the brake is engaged. If someone doesn't know better, it would seem like the lever is not attached to anything and just flops up and down. To release you have to pull it up to the top until it catches, raise a little, then press the button and let down. I wonder if the squeal you heard was a parking brake that was not fully released. Would have expected the light to stay on, but that's not a 100% sure bet on an unfamiliar car.

Anyway, 2nd gear shift behavior and parking brake behavior should be prerequisites for research on a 328 before you drive them. Not something you want to be surprised by on a test drive (or worse, driving around with the parking brake engaged).

 

The parking brake light was on, I thought it was just because it was broken. It did move freely like you say, I learned something new today. I suppose as soon as I buy a Ferrari I’ll have many days like that though. Glad I posted here, very helpful advice even if I don’t have A/C issue.

 

"I posted here, very helpful advice even if I don’t have A/C issue."

All 3x8's have an air conditioning issue! It was a "feature!"

Re difficult 2nd gear cold shifting - Redline MTL will probably eliminate, or at least greatly reduce that. It eliminated it in my 328 when I changed from Motul which had been installed by an Italian car specialty shop in Baltimore. FWIW, I also tried Lucas at a recent gear oil change because I had some on the shelf. Drained it a week later and refilled with MTL

 

"All 3x8's have an air conditioning issue! It was a "feature!" "

Hahaha, isn't that the truth. Changing the AC hoses was absolutely the worst job I have ever done on mine.

 

I have to say, Im pretty satisfied with the R134, its not as cold as R12, my car gets and stays pretty cool, as long as I turn on the AC right when I start up the car, and leave the windows up. I might in the future , find a shop that can re charge it with R12 . I have a new compressor, and all new hoses and fittings. I dont think there would be a problem switching over .

Thank you

 

Make sure that second gear works when it's warm... REALLY make sure... ask me how I know

 

Update: I’m the proud owner of 74685, 1988 328 GTS rosso corsa with black interior. It was the car I had described at the beginning. Haven’t driven it much yet, still need to get it emission tested and licensed.

 

Does the squeal on the right side go away after a couple of minutes?