Hello, I’m planning ahead for my winter maintenance projects on my ‘03 360 F1. Most DIY’s are readily available, but I can’t find any one definitive procedure for doing a flush, fill and bleed of the F1 system. I’ve seen different iterations of suck out, partially replace, bleed using X431, requiring removing, then resealing, the actuator itself to access the bleed screws; some that just suck out old and top off with new… Is there any “official” recommended version for the procedure? Thanks, Jeremy
Also subscribed. I do have the Scud Ing Swiss F1 module which has a maintenance mode that seems like it can used for flushing but don’t know the entire procedure myself.
Normal Guy Supercar on YouTube has a video of bleeding the F1 system with the X431. I followed along with his video to do my F430. Dan is doing the bleed/flush on his F430, but they have to be very similar. Sent from my iPad using FerrariChat.com mobile app
My Scud Ing module should arrive tomorrow, so I’ll be curious as to how it can be used to assist. I’m sure I’ll end up with the X431 for all of its capabilities at some point soon also. What are your impressions of the Scud module. Any difference in performance or behavior in the car?
I’ve seen that. I believe, though I’m not certain, that the systems are different. That’s why I’m seeking clarification on here, before I mess anything up!
I’ve used Dan’s video and my X431 to do flushes the last two years. You can flush as many times as you want to ensure you get all of the old fluid out. As soon as I have access to my WSM I’ll see if it has additional info, but if the goal is to get rid of the old and put new fluid in the X431 method does that. Plus, you can do a clutch relearn with the X431. No issues and my F1 system shifts really well. Oh, this is for a 430, but I would think the process is similar.
The way I do it is to replace half the fluid at every annual and have the fluid changed, system bled, self-test performed, leak check done, and PIS optimized every three years, which was Ferrari's last recommendation for F1 systems. Image Unavailable, Please Login
According to the manual the f1 system contains 1 ltr of oil, if you measure the size of the f1 tank under the wing it comes out at around 380 ccs. The plate inside is at mid height and with system up to pressure you will be 18 mm above the plate. I started by pulling the fuse behind the seat to stop the pump from running, leave overnight and the pressure will drop off - the tank will be nearly full. Using a 100 cc syringe with a plastic tube, draw out the oil to the plate level ( around 180 ccs on mine) Refill the tank with new oil with an equal volume that you sucked out- replace fuse and pressurize system. That is 20% of the old oil gone. With system now pressurized the tank level will be just above the plate, add more new oil to top tank up. Using Launch pro flush out say 200 ccs from the bleed nipple on the side of the gearbox- this will drop the full tank to the plate level , taking more than 200 and the tank is getting less than 50% full. Bleed bottle with graduations on the side is handy here. Cycle the gear change from first to reverse etc and run the flush again etc. When i compared the oil i removed to new oil i could not see much difference, the new oil might have been a little brighter- mine had not be changed for a while. Having gone through the process of sucking 200 ccs out of a 1000 cc system, i think if you sucked 200 out at start and end of summer it would be just as good as all this flushing
Mike, thanks for going into detail on the process! So the 360 uses the same clutch block/bleed nipple as on the 430 in Dan’s video?
I only know the 430 setup, but if 360 has a similar size tank i would suck some out and renew. Go for a long drive and repeat a few times and job done. My old oil was not dirty after years in system, yet some on here swear by yearly changes, seems overkill to me. I missed the original bit about a 360, i assumed a 430
Jeremy- No I have my techs do it. Mike- That is only a partial cure. I did not see anybody talking about annual changes, except for half the fluid, which is no big deal.
I do annual full fluid changes. Only takes a couple minutes and makes me feel warm and fuzzy. I’m sure it’s overkill but I’m okay if it is.
Jeremy, I use the Normal Guy SuperCar video process using the X431. I typically run four to five bleed cycles to get all the fluid out, although the first time I had to replace a set of crush gaskets on one of the fluid pipes at the actuator so all the fluid drained out and made it a bit easier. I’m not sure I could do a better video, although when I do my next annual in April/May I’ll take good notes.
Allen- Nothing wrong with overservicing your F1 system. I already do that, just not quite as much. Most F1 problems are caused by lack of service since Ferrari neglected to put it in the maintenance recommendations from 1997-2006.
love it. Now I did also replace the accumulator at the same time but shifting is much smoother and faster. I thought it was my imagination at first but no question it is. Most noticeable for me is when the transmission auto downshifts from 3-2-1 say when you’re coming to a stop and too lazy to do it yourself. I had slight jerkiness before and now it is butter smooth, even going into 1. Couldn’t be happier.
I followed his video but what i could not make out was, if the flush was just flushing out the topup fluid he was putting in the tank after the initial flush. Hence my throught that sucking out 200 ccs at start/ end summer might do as good a job.
I removed as much as I could from the reservoir with a turkey baster and short piece of hose. I topped it off with new fluid. Then I started the bleed process. It’s very easy to see the new fluid going into the bleed bottle when fresh fluid goes through the system. Sent from my iPad using FerrariChat.com mobile app
Hello Experts, I need your help! Searched all over the forum but only could find the procedure how to change the fluid in the F1 System. My problem is I had to change some of the hoses from the pump to the actuator shifting module. So the complete system was drained......all! Does anybody know how to bleed the complete empty F1 system on a F430 or 430 Scuderia by using the X431 ? I mean starting with which fluid circle?? Clutch...E-Diff....shifting module? Changing the fluid like Dan (NGS) seems only to exchange the fluid in the upper area and clutch. But the bleed procedure for the shift module must be total different by opening the bleed screws at the actuator Also the X431 menue does not help in this case. I appreciate your help! Ruedi
Start by bleeding clutch , then actuator ( removed ( screws loose 2 turns) and then Ediff .. not sure if that is what you looking for ? The x431 has all the functions to do it .. the hardest part is removing the actuator
That was exactly what I need to know Dominick! So thank you for coaching me. I already removed everything and put together again with new EV hoses. Removed the actuator, ready to bleed. Will give the procedure a trial and come back to you tomorrow. Late here in Germany Thank you sir! Ruedi