F1 control unit leaking

Hi, my f1 control unit is leaking, and while I cold start the car this morning the rev can go up and it stalled, so i restart the car with some throttle and it was ok at 1k ish rpm as cold start, first this was strange and while change the brake hoses and brake fuid, I realize the f1 control unit is leaking badly,

any solution on how to solve these problems for long term,

thanks in advance



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It leaking isn't enough info. Is it leaking from a hose, a fitting, etc. My first step would be to try tightening whatever it is leaking from, aside from a hose tear obviously.

 

Ok

First issue ..idle issue .. was the battery disconnected at one point ..if so please follow ECU relearn procedure in owners manual .. note the temp has to be above 50 iirc

This will retrain the throttle bodies and should help ..if not move to next step of checking fuel pressure, fuel pumps etc

Leak on F1 unit ..are you sure it isn't just an overflow condition from reservoir ..very common to over fill them and then it makes.a mess ..clean the area and see exactly where it is coming from

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My garage cleaned all the hoses, and from pic 2 those 3 are wet, it is wet from the hose connector area,

For the start problem, I didn’t discount the battery, but once it’s warm a bit it is back to normal


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On the rubber hoses ..change the clamps

I would still do ECU relearn procedure

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How can I do the ecu relearn procedure?

My car is at dealer now, they are checking it


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Do I just change the clamps? As you know Ferrari stock clamps are one off use, or do I need to change the whole hose?


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Turn battery disconnect to off

Let car sit for an hour or more ..to get real cold

Then turn disconnect switch on

all lights, a/c off , everything off , turn key key to on position and let it stay there for 10-15 seconds .. then start with touching gas pedal ..let idle for 10 mins

Done .. do at 50 degrees or more

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Change the clamps first .... That will probably be enough

Yes one use only ..must cut old ones out and if you want buy good quality worm drive clamps and just fit over the hose without distrubing them

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Will the dealer be just changing the clamps? It will they change the whole thing, although it was leaking last night, but the up shift and downshift speed are normal


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That looks like a Dowty seal ring in the area you marked at the top, Its a steel or alloy ring with a rubber centre. If its leaking and not loose then it will need renewing.
Depending on what it is you may have to bleed system after renewing to get the air out, if that is the case you might want to bite the bullet and change the other hose clips as they cost pennies and once they are done you know its done

 

Will the dealer just change the hose clips or will the change the whole line


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Why not call your dealer and ask them what they are doing, what they see and how they are going to fix it versus ask people on the internet who haven’t seen the car? We aren’t psychic and can’t read a dealers mind? Oh and the definitive way to fix it and never have it recur is to convert the car to manual.

 

I am not there to feel the hoses that are leaking ..if hard and deteriorating I would just change them .. if they feel and look good I would just do clamps ..i am hoping your dealer will make the right decision

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Make sure that the leak is not originating from higher up on the F1 power unit, such as the little connection pipe that goes from the power unit to the reservoir. Mine was leaking from the junction and the fluid cascaded everywhere making it look like several hoses and solenoids might have leaks. But in the end it was only that one pipe up top that was making it appear as though other places had leaks. Here’s a picture of where my leaked.
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I

I went to the dealer today, they opened it up and it is exactly the same problem as yours , but as they are ss lines, how would they leak? Due to the time for ordering, is it possible to replace it will fish eye bolts and other lines?
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What would they affect if I don’t them replace for the time being? Dealer say it is not drivable

 

Depends on where you get stranded, the dealer is telling you it is not drivable, so take notice.

 

Mine leaked for a while before I found it. But it was a very minor leak. The metal is not ss...it is ver soft and easily deforms. I believe mine leaked because it was over-torqued at some point in the past causing the sealing surface to mushroom and deform. And yes, it took several weeks for my pipe to arrive. Been perfect ever since.

 

You can make a line the same, the screw fittings are same as brakes and the ends are a bubble type . See if a local hydraulics co can help. I have a flaring tool that makes that end
Eurospares have a used one at £42

 

Hydraulic line leaks do not heal themselves. Rarely (for me never) does tightening work. They are usually one time tightening due to the deforming required to make the initial seal on rigid pipes. Also when clamps go on rubber hydraulic hoses you should change the whole hose. This is from experience with farm equipment and auto brake and power steering assemblies. Good luck.