348 - Engine repair thread | Page 6 | FerrariChat

348 Engine repair thread

Discussion in '348/355' started by Ferrarium, Oct 13, 2021.

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  1. johnk...

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    #126 johnk..., Dec 30, 2021
    I'm not interested in hijacking Eric's thread. If you want to say the water pump studs (blots, what ever) are not intended to carry the shear load, fine. But Brian's statement began with a blanket statement what was incorrect or at least lacked specificity. Let's leave it at that an move on.
     
  2. Ferrarium

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    #127 Ferrarium, Dec 31, 2021
    Decided to pull the pumpkin and check it out. I indeed have the AP dual disc. That's great since I have a brand new twin plate flywheel. :)

    I bought this crappy clutch alignment tool 2 years ago on eBay for like five bucks, it's plastic.

    Looks like I have the old throw out bearing set up two that'll have to be upgraded to the hill both the bearing and flange.

    All of the dust is there is clean and dry, that is to say not oily of course its dirty. Seals seem to be fine with no weeping. I'll replace the triple seals.

    I'm going to replace the entire clutch assembly flywheel, plates, pressure plate everything. That stuff is 30 years old I'm sure the tension on those fingers is reduced etc.

    Damn redoing the clutch is going to be just as much as we doing my top end lol.
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  3. Ferrarium

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    #128 Ferrarium, Dec 31, 2021
  4. KevZep

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    #129 KevZep, Dec 31, 2021
    I would say at some point during that clutches life, the release bearing has leaked and there has been clutch/brake fluid on the clutch plate. Mine was like that when I pulled it apart to replace the seals in the release bearing, which, needs to be done again after I did it 10,000kms ago.
    So this time I will buy the Hills Engineering one.....
     
  5. Ferrarium

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    #130 Ferrarium, Dec 31, 2021
    Yep me too, I actually just ordered the hill flange and bearing from Daniel about 45 minutes ago. At every major interval I'll probably replace the triple seals.

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  6. KevZep

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    #131 KevZep, Dec 31, 2021
    Yes could even have had a mixture of gear oil and the clutch fluid....
    Is your clutch a single plate? (I remember we were discussing this a while back and you weren't sure at the time). What year is your 348?

    I believe at some point Ferrari upgraded/improved the release bearing, my car has the later one, so I only need to get the actual release bearing from Hills and not the whole flange and assembly. Later 348's are the same as the 355.....like the later 348 brakes are the same as the 355 brakes...and so forth...
     
  7. Ferrarium

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    #132 Ferrarium, Dec 31, 2021
    Its an October 91 car. Its the dual plate clutch and I do have the correct new flywheel plate for it shown in the box above for when I do the voith, I have the MD voith repack kit as well.
     
  8. KevZep

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    #133 KevZep, Dec 31, 2021
    Okay that makes sense and aligns with what I have learned about these cars, twin-plate vs single-plate clutch and so forth.
    Its not cheap sorting the clutch, release bearing and flywheel!! As mentioned earlier.
    I am going to be going down this road very soon, might as well take care of everything whilst its all out...
     
  9. m.stojanovic

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    #134 m.stojanovic, Jan 2, 2022
    Further info/finding on how the timing belt is sitting on the sprockets and their fences:

    After installing the new (improved) main belt pulley/sprocket, I checked its alignment with the cam sprockets using a straight edge. The alignment is good/correct.

    With the new belt installed and tensioned, I turned the crankshaft some 20 full rotations. The belt settled against the outer (front facing) fences of the two cam sprockets and of the main sprocket. So, it seems that that is just how, for some reason, the belt is riding and not due to any sprocket misalignment.

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    The outer fence of the new (improved) main sprocket should withstand the belt side force much better as it is thicker and looks better crimped than the original one.
     
  10. Ferrarium

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    #135 Ferrarium, Jan 2, 2022
    I assume you added a 3mm spacer?
     
  11. m.stojanovic

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    #136 m.stojanovic, Jan 2, 2022
    No need for a spacer behind the new belt sprocket as my engine uses the later, shorter back snout, sprocket. The gap towards the crank pulley is just about 1.7 mm, same as how the original sprocket was sitting.

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  12. Ferrarium

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    #137 Ferrarium, Jan 2, 2022
  13. Ferrarium

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    #138 Ferrarium, Jan 2, 2022
    Mine is 2.7mm but the crank ply is not torqued down but it is bottomed out. I likely have the older crank pulley as well since I had the older cam pulley. When I get the heads on I will also straight edge it. Seems the pulley can go out a bit still if needed to reduce the fence riding.

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  14. Ferrarium

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    #139 Ferrarium, Jan 4, 2022
    There's a spacer behind the idler pulley and when I pulled my engine apart I found the spacer was not there. The spacer is also NLA. Mirojub provided me the 1.5 mm thick spec, I had 10 of them made. It definitely fits more snuggly and accurately than the OEM one.

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  15. Rupp3r

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    #140 Rupp3r, Jan 4, 2022
    Hello

    Very interesting discussion on the pulley!

    Would you think the pulley tension has also an effect?

    When I did my belt and trying the recommended tension procedure (tensioner bolted on its maximum tension position) I felt the tension was really high compared to what I am used to know.
     
  16. Ferrarium

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    #141 Ferrarium, Jan 4, 2022
    Effect on what, the belt walking? Doubt it. Yes manual says "idler is stretched to fullest extent" or words to that effect. You can also check the frequency with a guitar string tuner and check for frequency when you pluck it. I forget what is should be. It out here somewhere.
     
  17. nismodrifter

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    #142 nismodrifter, Jan 4, 2022
    142hz.
     
  18. Rupp3r

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    #143 Rupp3r, Jan 5, 2022
    Yes on the belt walking.. don't know!

    Yes the frequency was about 180/190Hz with the idler strecthed to the fullest (with a new spring) so I backed it off a little to get around 140Hz but I am surprised by this behavior..?
     
  19. Ferrarium

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    #144 Ferrarium, Jan 9, 2022
  20. Ferrarium

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    #145 Ferrarium, Jan 9, 2022
  21. johnk...

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    #146 johnk..., Jan 9, 2022
     
  22. Ferrarium

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    #147 Ferrarium, Jan 9, 2022
  23. KevZep

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    #148 KevZep, Jan 9, 2022
    Nice!! The grease looked in fairly nice condition, it didn't look like it had started to separate yet.
    I'll be ordering the release bearing assembly complete soon, my clutch was new when I got the car so I wont need to do that or the grease just yet thankfully....
     
  24. Ferrarium

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    #149 Ferrarium, Jan 9, 2022
    Yeah the Grease still had a really sticky consistency it was still doing its job. I actually rather enjoy doing that.... it's not nearly as nasty as CV joints and just kind of put some tunes on and go to town.

    And there it is.... cleaned, regreased, shimmed, o-ringed and reassembled with a brand spanking new flywheel.

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  25. Ferrarium

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    #150 Ferrarium, Jan 9, 2022
    Notice the tip of that bolt holding the flywheel to the voice is shiny? Two of those M8 ribe bolts had stretched just a tad. As a result it protruded past the flat mounting surface of the flywheel to stack ring surface. The stack ring would not have sat level. I just stuck them on a sanding disc for a few seconds. Problem solved... just something to check for. Same reason you can't reuse the bolts for the clutch mounting, they stretch too much it'll actually press into the voith and damage the case. Of course unless you send them tad like I did those two bolts. Image Unavailable, Please Login

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