308 GT4 York AC Compressor Removal & Installation | FerrariChat

308 GT4 York AC Compressor Removal & Installation

Discussion in '308/328' started by robertgarven, Jan 12, 2022.

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  1. robertgarven

    robertgarven F1 Veteran
    Owner

    Feb 24, 2002
    5,294
    Ventura, California
    Full Name:
    Robert Garven
    #1 robertgarven, Jan 12, 2022
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2022
    Friends,

    I couldn't find a good thread for this topic so I'm starting this new one for everything related to removal and installation of the York AC compressor for 308's but especially the GT4. Hopefully everyone can learn from my mistakes, or maybe we can share some tricks that make this hardest part of the timing belt procedure for me easier!

    First off let me say I live in a climate where I don't need AC so I want to keep the system set up as stock as possible for historical purposes. Years ago I took a class in automotive AC at the local college got certified, charged my car had the AC running perfectly but discovered that because of the front windshield creating such a giant greenhouse effect even when the AC was working perfectly it never really cooled the cabin, except when the weather outside was cool! Also back when R12 was readily available and considered safe, I'm pretty sure these systems even when functioning properly, had to be recharged almost yearly for them to operate.

    I'm hoping we can discuss a range of issues. For some reason I determined it to be easier to remove the studs out of the compressor and Loctite the nuts on the studs, so I or an assistant could hold the compressor from below and thread the studs on from the top like bolts. I'm sure I did this because it's so hard to get the compressor in and out because the clutch assembly hangs up on one or more of the stud sticking out of the cam belt cover. I am rethinking this because it was so hard to get the washers on, and studs threaded from the top this time! Thinking it may be easier to push the compressor with the studs up through the support and nut it from the top.

    I was all excited yesterday as I somehow got the compressor in from below and sitting on a cardboard box on the shelf of the gas tank, unfortunately after I got it in place I realized that to mount it this way you have to put the rear stud in the AC support before you mount it, because of clearance issues with the firewall. When I removed the compressor it was pretty hard, and it chipped off some of my perfect paint on my gas tank!

    So here's a few of my questions I would like some of your comments or suggestions on:

    1. Do any of you remove any of those studs pictured below to get the compressor in. On the GT4 you have to remove several on the other cam belt cover because if you don't it won't clear the frame. Unfortunately I've never removed any of these in my only reason to be leery of doing that is that in 30 years of ownership I've never taken is out and I'm worried they may strip the block.

    2. Does anyone remove the studs on the AC compressor like I did?

    3. If not, does anyone have any tricks to get the compressor around the studs.

    I will post some pictures below showing the GT4 set up.
    As always thanks in advance for any advice, suggestions or criticism!

    Rob




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  2. BigTex

    BigTex Seven Time F1 World Champ
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    Dec 6, 2002
    79,368
    Houston, Texas
    Full Name:
    Bubba
    Thinking out loud here, it's been so long since I took mine off....

    Leave the support bracket ON the compressor and unbolt the assembly at the engine??
    Will it lift up out the top that way??
     
  3. absostone

    absostone F1 World Champ
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    Jul 28, 2008
    10,023
    I didnt really read this well, but I removed my studs.
     
  4. robertgarven

    robertgarven F1 Veteran
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    Feb 24, 2002
    5,294
    Ventura, California
    Full Name:
    Robert Garven
    Bix Tex,

    That wont work. :) Absostone did you mean from the compressor or the block?
     
  5. absostone

    absostone F1 World Champ
    Silver Subscribed

    Jul 28, 2008
    10,023
    From the block. From memory it was to remove the lower bracket of the ac
     
  6. kiwiokie

    kiwiokie Formula 3

    Aug 19, 2013
    1,539
    Tulsa, OK
    Full Name:
    John McDermott
    Clean engine bay!!! I think he is referring to the studs on the engine.


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  7. B3Cabrio

    B3Cabrio Rookie

    May 10, 2021
    9
    FRANCE
    Full Name:
    Emmanuel RdC
    Hello Rob,

    Thank you for this post. I'm new on the GT4 and will proceed changing timing belts, checking valve clearance, painting head covers, etc in the next coming weeks.
    I knew that I will have to remove the A/C compressor by removing the studs from the compressor , but not aware of possible struggles with the long studs in the block itself. I will pay attention to this and update this post with my findings.

    Like others, your engine bay is sooo clean ! Looks like new!

    What material did you use for the firewall ? It looks like a mirror. I need to change mine and I'm curious where to find it.
     
  8. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    26,779
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    I used the #1 method (removing the long studs below the compressor) -- but there's more than one way to skin a cat.

    Side note: You might consider removing the smaller diameter, thicker shims that are under the AC compressor (and making that sure the bracket under the AC compressor is moved down as low as possible) in order to move the AC compressor axis closer to the crankshaft axis so the belt wrap angle on the idler pulley is increased -- just a thought...
     
  9. B3Cabrio

    B3Cabrio Rookie

    May 10, 2021
    9
    FRANCE
    Full Name:
    Emmanuel RdC
    Hello Rob,

    I removed the A/C compressor on my GT4 last week-end. Easier than expected.
    I only had to remove the two lower studs on the A/C compressor (Method #2) and that was enough.

    By the way, I found this mounting quite stupid with these two studs and will replace these two studs with bolts: 3/8" UNC (Coarse) Hex Bolt, length 2"1/2 (grip length = 35mm). That will be much easier for future removals.

    @robertgarven, if you could reply about the material used for your firewall insulate, that would be greatly appreciated
     

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