355 Bleeding Teves brakes

How to know if air is caught in the ABS pump? Having troubles bleeding the brakes. The pump needs to be on I discovered and read and fluid comes out from the bleeders screws but pedal feels a still a bit spongy.

 

You would need a good vacuum bleeder and follow the steps outline in service manual
It’s basically key engine off (having the key on engine off will set the ABS valves into a neutral state) fill the brake reservoir with clean brake fluid with the vacuum pump on start at the right rear till you see clean fluid come out watching that the reservoir doesn’t go dry then work your way to the other wheels after all is done top off fluid level cycle the key on and off a few times with your foot pressing on the pedal waiting about 60 seconds between cycles this will run the pump
This is just the way I do it with my car and works for me but still read and follow WSM
Good luck


Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat.com mobile app

 

For Teves system you need the key in the on position, not run, to power the ABS pump to bleed the rear brakes or you won't be able to bleed them.

Sent using FerrariChat.com mobile app

 

Hi, Thanks but that I know, but I also see that the fluid level in the reservoir tank shrinks when the pump is activated. The level increases on the other hand when pumping the pedal with key off (pump not activated). Normal?

 

Don’t forget the bleed nipple on the master cyclinder in the front trunk area. I was having a hard time with this recently and that was the culprit.

 

Your car is a 5.2 though right? Not Teves brake system.

 

Ok, exactly where is this nipple?

 

Yes, both exist. My car is a manusl and it's an early 5.2 with Teves system.

 

You have to pull the frunk carpet up to see it but the master cylinder does have max and min marks on it:

Don't forget too that each caliper has 2 bleed nipples so you have to bleed both - IIRC you do the inner one first but check the WSM.

As mentioned you have to the ignition key at the 1st position so you can hear the abs pump buzz and the fluid level drop. Leave the key at this position and whilst bleeding you should hear it buzz now and again. This is normal.

I just use a length of silicone pipe with the end blocked off and a slit cut in it with a very sharp knife creating a one way valve. Works every time. I also bleed the clutch too as it shares the same fluid.

 

Nice Jeff with pics. So you don't pump the brake pedal, just let the pump be engaged (key on)? If so, does that work for the front wheels as well then?

 

Switch the key to activate the pump and leave it at that position then work your way round the car working from the furthest away caliper from the master cylinder doing both sides of each caliper.

With the bleed nipple cracked off slightly and the tube with the split in into a suitable receptacle gently pump the pedal a good few times keeping an eye on the master cylinder and topping up as necessary. With teh split pipe/one way valve method you can alllow the pedal back up without fear of sucking air back in.

As mentioned do the same with the clutch pedal/bled nipple at side of bell housing. When I did mine I think I did the clutch first but did this to pump loads of fluid through to in effect do a fluid change. You just need to keep doing it until whats being pumped out looks as clean as new fluid.

My old dirty fluid getting cleaner and cleaner until the colour matches the new fluid.

Image Unavailable, Please Login

Making the one way valve out of silicone hose which is blocked off at one end and a thin slit cut in it. Fluid will push out under pressure then it reseals itself. Get clear hose so you can see whats happening

Image Unavailable, Please Login

Image Unavailable, Please Login

View attachment 932117

 

I imagine this follows the same principle but. ALternatively you can buy the hose and a valve from a fish keeoping supplies - just make sure the hose is a tight fit over the bleed nipple

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Clutch-Bleeder-Hydraulic-Bleeding-Motorcycle/dp/B08N6S9YCK/ref=sr_1_51?crid=1MTF4O96P90BQ&keywords=brake+bleeder&qid=1642971216&sprefix=brake+bleeder%2Caps%2C77&sr=8-51

 

Just done a bit more digging and I found what I bought (albeit from a car accessory shop). The only thing - and its a very silly mistake is that it is not clear which is vital to see what is going on!!! DOH!

So I just used it to get the stopper out the end the bought clear silicone hose as shown above and just cut a slit in it. Its such a simple idea but works perfectly and allows it to be done by a person working alone

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wot-Nots-Pearl-PWN189-Automatic-Brake/dp/B00ALTZEQ0/ref=pd_sbs_7/259-1313498-5274701?pd_rd_w=RChiU&pf_rd_p=a3a7088f-4aec-4dbd-97cc-9a059581fe7b&pf_rd_r=0ABZ8RNEF9QY0BTG5FMP&pd_rd_r=e15019b5-a7ce-4a85-b385-09aeb04d437b&pd_rd_wg=sizMI&pd_rd_i=B00ALTZEQ0&psc=1

 

Yes, normal. The fluid level fluctuation you described is due to the fluid accumulator (the "bomb") being filled and emptied.

Otherwise, you need to pump the pedal for bleeding of the front brakes. For the rears, you should be able to bleed if you just press the brake pedal somewhat and keep it in that position. If no fluid is coming out, you can then try pumping. All the time, the ABS pump should be kept "on".