Hi all, I have a '94 348 Spider and my driver's door window stopped working. I've checked the switch, door jamb wire harness, window motor, fuse, and power window ECU out and they all seem to be working properly. I have the schematic for the car, but it isn't even remotely correct - I think it may be for the GTS or GTB - but the Spider has an ECU to roll the windows down a bit when the top is lowered. There is something in the circuit somewhere I'm missing. The passenger window works fine, including use via the driver's door switch. Has anyone experienced a problem like this? I noticed there is a fuse for the window (which is fine) but no relay. I think I'm still missing something. Hopefully someone can help because I'm running out of hair to pull out! Thanks, D.
I have 348 spider. I had this problem. In the end it a was loose wire in the plug thats next to the door hinge. There is a circuit that connects to the windows with micro switch on it. This allows the windows to drop slightly when you release the roof handle. This switch is located right behind inside the roof where it slopes down to the car body. If you move the switch you will here it click on and off.
Kenyon, Thanks for the tip. I'll look into it. It's been really difficult working completely blind on this problem. Your suggestion is really appreciated. D.
I had the same problem, it wound up being a loose wire between the door jam like the other person said, try moving all the wires while you operate the power window switch. It was an easy fix at the mechanics should not be to expensive.
Just a follow up to let everyone know that I solved the problem. It WAS in fact the door jamb harness, so thanks for your comments. I found that, interestingly enough, Ferrari doesn't sell just the connector (I was thinking of replacing it myself), but only the connector together with all of the door harnesses, which costs $950+. One of the wires from the window motor was not making a good connection. The female pin the connector had expanded, so I bent it back in, used a bit of a paper clip as a spacer to keep it from happening again, reattached the connector and the window now works better than ever. These connectors are a real problem, but I'm glad in the end all it took was a few hours of troubleshooting, some good advice, and a paper clip. Cheers, D.
My 1994 348 spyder passenger side window is not working at all now. Initially it was working using the passenger side window switch button and wouldn't work using the passenger window switch on drivers side. I hear a clicking coming from a box up under the dash on the drivers side when I use the up or down on the passenger side Window switch and the same clicking from the same box using only the up on the drivers side passenger switch. I'm going to check the connectors at the door jam but if there wasn't a connection throught the door jam it shouldn't click in this module under the dash correct?
When you open the roof, do both windows move down a little? I don't have a wiring diagram for the 348 Spider, but I believe the setup is similar to the 355 spider with a Window Control Unit in the system (under the dash). All window switch inputs go to the Window Control Unit. Relays within the control unit send power the window motors. There is no direct wiring between the switches and the motors.
Wires can break individually. If you're getting no click from the Window Control Unit when using the driver's side switch down position, then there could be a wire problem or a switch problem. Each switch position has a separate input into the Window Control Unit, so 6 inputs from 3 switches (plus a common earth return for all switches). I'd say you have two problems now. Note that the relays inside the Window Control Unit can be replaced if they are faulty. I have a part number if you need that.
Just tried the convertible top lever and the windows dont move nothing makes a sound as far as I can tell.
Which one of these relays is the passenger side (right side) window? It feels like the left window is the 3rd relay from the left and the right side window is the 4th relay from the left
Interesting. Did you move the roof away from the top of the windshield? Not sure about the relays or why there are 4 of them... unless there are individual up/down relays for both windows. The board looks good with no signs of burning or melting components. This is going to be difficult to faultfind without a wiring diagram. Here's the diagram for 355, but the wire colours and pin numbers might be completely different. The smaller white plug is related to the roof. https://www.dropbox.com/t/tMpWjsV79RXnZJ7a Time to put on my thinking cap....
I did push the roof as far back as I could but I think it was hitting the windows because they didnt go down (or move at all) like they are supposed to.
Maybe you now have 2 broken switches? When they were 50% working you could have swapped the switches to see if the failure moved too and that would prove your wiring OK. So now I would buy 2 new switches and see what happens. Also, consider buying the Ricambi window accelerators. They will make a 1990's 348 window work about as fast as a 2000 Ferrari 550 window but not American car speeds.
My drivers side window works fine. Its the passenger window switch on the driver side and now the passenger side window switch on the passenger side doesnt work. And the top being released doesnt make either window do anything. All I hear is clicking coming from this box except from the drivers side passenger window switch down button and no clicking from the roof when released.
This is puzzling. By the way, did you check the window fuses after both passenger switches stopped working?
New results... both switches on the drivers side work with the drivers side window connector (white). So switches are good. When using the passenger window connector (red) i get a click going up and nothing when pressing down. On either switch. So its definitely in the window control box or a bad wire going from the down button on the red connector to the window control box. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Is that an optical illusion or is the yellow wire on the red plug not attached to the pin? I guess we still have to assume that you still have two problems as the driver's and passenger's side passenger window control failed at different times. I don't know why the windows aren't dropping when you unlatched the roof. There might even be 3 issues. You may want to check the microswitch on the windshield top frame (LHS).
Where are the fuses for the windows? They arnt in the main fuse panel in the frunk on the drivers side. Yes the yellow wire in the red connector is attached and thats the one connected to the up button that does make a noise in the window control box. Ill check the roof switches next. Id assume for continuity when closed?
According to the Spider manual, in the passenger footwell (behind the footrest) 20 amp fuse #23 for the passenger window. #2 for the driver's window. Image Unavailable, Please Login
So fuses are good but... someones been in both the drivers door (rubber gromit was not pressed into door) and the fuse panel (the flat head push pin retainers are gone). It looks like the retainers are gone because the fuse panel cover cannot shut all the way from the window regulator relay. or is that the windshield qiper timer and the window regulator is blocked off by that white insert. Either way Its way taller than the rest of the relays. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
So heres something interesting... with the window control module unplugged and the switches unplugged i get infinite ohms aka no connection. When i plug the connectors into the switches I get ohm readings that dance around in the kilo ohm range. These readings are between the two outside wires. So for drivers connector its white black and white blue. For passenger connector its between white green and yellow black. The readings change to ohms not kilo ohms when the milspec connector in the door jam is connected. I feel like these two wires shouldnt ever have any sort of continuity between them at all, ever, since the switch connects one of the outside wires to the middle wire (ground) to tell the window module which way to turn the windows motor. I could be wrong though.
The relay covers are sometimes poorly fitting. I can't get my fasteners to go in, either. It looks like the decal on the relay panel cover is for the GTB/GTS. It doesn't show the jumper (i.e. the "white insert") found on the Spider.
Not sure I understand where you are measuring the resistance. Are you measuring reistance on pins at the Window ECU back towards the switch plugs? Are the switches backlit? If so, if you are measuring the resistances of the switches, make sure you are not measuring across an LED at the same time or you may get some strange results. The 355 diagrams do show the switches have backlighting, but they have more pins.
Yes they are backlit. Im testing at the door switches. I was testing to see if the passenger connector down button wire had a connection to the milspec connector. What I found was that both the up and down wires show they come out of the milspec connector on the same pin. I have no idea how this is possible. So i started checking the connectors to the switches. besides the roof micro switches what else should I test to get the passenger side window working again?
