What would you do? 430 Scud flaking paint

Looking for opinions related to the common issue of paint flaking under the front hood and door jambs. 2008 Scud w/5500 miles. I just had the headlights 'milking' issue repaired/restored by Clear Corners and want to address the paint too. Repair may require stripping and repainting the underside of the hood and door jambs. To do the underside of the hood I'd lose the original Ferrari sticker. Should that be a concern? Should I even do anything? The integrity of the Rosso paint isn't impacted but the flaking black paint is unsightly.

Suggestions? Opinions welcome!




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I wonder if a light sanding and artist brush touchup might look good enough. I guess you could try that before dropping the cabbage. The first pic almost looks like flames in the paint, at least in the pic, I liked it. Cheers

 

in my opinion ,leave as is. It is more valueable and desireable when you sell it as is than if you patch it up

 

It's a real gripe of mine that on a car that costs this much, there isn't even a keyed surface before paint is applied, let alone any primer. That's Ferrari for you.

To fix it, I'd recommend removing any flaking paint with a plastic scraper, sanding the area smooth, apply some spot primer, and then finish with satin black.

I'd go with a topical approach for now rather than a complete strip and re-application of the black.

 

In the words of Enzo "you are buying an engine from me, the car comes for free"

I would just remove any loose stuff and then touch up with the best match Matt paint.

 

Mine did similar where doors are inside, i used an enamel matt black cheap spray paint, it actually blends perfect and cant even tell touched up!!!

 

That's what I'll do when under the flaking under the lids bugs me too much. Mask up, matt black rattle can, perfect.

 

Seriously. So there was no scuffing or priming?

 

would you care to share the brand, color, SKU, etc? Thanks

 

SEM TRIM BLACK. Rattle can.

 

Hmmm...Didn't you see where you paid an extra couple grand for the "lightweight" paint on the options list

 

I've got the same issue in the door jams on my 16M. I'm just going to leave it... for now.

 

It's somewhat comforting it's a normal issue lol. It almost prevented me from buying an otherwise pristine example. I may take a crack at it and if I don't like the result I will bring it to a pro. Any feedback on my repair kit?
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I would not be rubbing anything down, that’s why it’s called self etching primer.

just remove any flacking by hand, your nail or something rubber, and blow it in. Masking up is the most important thing here if using a rattle can, last thing you want is overspray all over your pristine paintwork.

…or as it’s so common, you could always use the “do nothing” of problem solving.

 

Honestly any matt black enamel paint in a can
Its like $2
Im in australia so brand probably wouldnt be relevant

I cant even tell
Didnt sand or prime it or even mask it

 

The SEM paint is a perfect match.

 

The sharp edges should be feathered otherwise they will be visible under the new paint.

 

SEM trim paint is a lot tougher than most rattlecan. It is standard in the industry. Remember to mask with fine line tape and not just blue stuff. It seeps under the edge. Dont use a rattle can in the same room as the car if you can avoid it. If you cant then cover the whole car. Paint mist fills the air. If you get fine overspray it can be cleaned easily in the first minutes. Next day not so much...

 

Thanks for the tips, I need them! I plan on removing the hood, mask it off and place flat on a work stand. Light sand and spray. Not expecting it to be perfect.

 

As others have said the SEM is a perfect match. Do not listen to the comments that any black rattle can will work. I literally tried every other kind.

Instead of spraying, I sprayed onto a paper plate and brused on. I did not want to risk getting this on my Scuds original paint.


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It can look perfect. Use several light coats and wave the spray off the hood into the air without releasing the button..Shake it more than it says on the can. It helps if the can is warm because realeasing the pressure chillls the can.Keeping the can in warm water before hand helps. NOT HOT.

 

Who knows. It might be "the" paint used at the factory.

 

With what appears to be almost no adhesion, I would try 200psi compressed air and a soft tip blow gun to blow off the rest before I tried repainting.

 

A light coat of adhesion promoter is what I would use instead of self etch. Self etch is made for bare metal not for painted parts. But also a high build primer from sem would do just as good.
20 years in the paint and body industry

 

Bulldog Adhesion promoter? Love that stuff. It works.