Trouble starting my 2003 360

One error is relay ..so you hear pump go on when open doors ..

Does you Obd tool read data streams

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How long since you last drove - could it be as simple as flat battery ?


Are there multiple threads on this ?

 

And your battery is always on a good trickle charger when the car is not in use?

That's a lot of codes.

If the battery is low, the F1 pump may not be able to provide enough hydraulic power to put the car into neutral for start.

 

Are your brake lights operating? Check to be sure all the lights back there are working.

Clear the faults and try again. If it fails start again re-scan and see what faults reoccur and chase those faults.

I have seen broken reverse levers cause these types of issues.

 

Check the brake fuse behind the right hand seat (Fuse 48?).

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Make sure the plunger on the brake pedal switch is not stuck. Clean, lubricate and exercise switch. And if you have a multimeter, check for power on the switch and switch continuity.

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Put a jumper wire across the brake switch harnees connector..and see if the lights work. Dumb question..you do have the key on when checking the lights correct,?

 

Not sure about the 4 prong type which has two sets of contacts. You'd have to go by wire colour. How many wires do you have feeding the switch? 2, 4 or 3 plus a jumper?

Red with green stripe is power in (from fuse). Red wire is the power out to brake lights, RH Engine ECU and F1 TCU when brake pedal is pushed (i.e. switch plunger un-pushed). Some cars have an additional brown/red wire going to the RH engine ECU. I don't know if this additional wire operates in the opposite sense to the other wire (i.e. power when switch plunger is pushed and no power when switch plunger is unpushed)

I started drawing some wiring diagrams, but I don't have access to a 360, so can't confirm the switch internals.


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Is it possible you could confirm the operation of the switch contacts for us? And possibly take a photo of the wiring?

 

Thanks for the photo! So 4 wires. The two red/green wires are spliced somewhere.

But are you saying your lights started working? Or just that you have continuity between:

1) red/green and red when brake pedal pushed?
2) red/green and brown/red when brake pedal pushed? By the way, I don't see a red stripe on the brown wire (or is it hidden?)

 

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Speculation: The second pair of switch wires (which also go to the RH engine ECU) may be part of some kind of cross-checking system or may help define the fault code.

If you can determine what the brown wire does with the brake pedal pushed and not pushed, this would be very helpful. I've been looking for an answer to this for over a year now.

Here's my current full wiring diagram (Spider, but coupe should be the same)

https://www.dropbox.com/t/h78UAYQ8fPmdFkS5

Plug 16G (if you can find it in the diagram), is the interface between the brake pedal switch and the F1 system.

I'll upload a new one if more information comes to hand.

Here's the F1 wiring diagram (see plug 11P/16G)

https://www.dropbox.com/t/1uhXfvXdnWwM3nk1

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You should be able to check switch function with a continuity tester. Switch plunger compressed..switch will show open. Plunger extended switch should complete the circuit.

What do you have for voltage at the switch? Should be one reference signal in then a ground.

 

Was the part number of the new switch 334064?

There is talk on the Maserati forums that this part is used on the Maserati 4200 and the switch contacts are across diagonal pairs of pins.

https://www.************.com/threads/common-issues-and-fixes.67529/page-3

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i.e. 1 & 4 and 2 and 3. This would not only make my wiring diagram switch internals incorrect, but it would put on the brake lights permanently. Hopefully you can solve this mess with an ohmmeter.

What do you mean by "then a ground", Tom? You have 12 volts power in (from the fuse), 12 volts power out (to lamps and ECUs) with the plunger extended. There is a ground on the "out" ... but only if you go through the resistances of the brake lamps and other components.

 

Correction... I had my wires crossed (too many times)

Here's what the switch circuit would look like with the diagonal pins hooked up (with the brake pedal pushed and unpushed)

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Redrawing the switch internals...
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So it is possible that the pins are diagonally linked. To be confirmed, of course.