Replaced battery. Much easier than changing my '15 MINI battery. It had a size 24 and I put in a 34. The 24 was a pretty tight fit. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
i finally got around to replacing the heater ducting under the spare tire with the correct type of hose, which of course led me to find that two of the 2 heater cores were leaking (Fresh antifreeze on the coils of both), which caused me to search for replacement heater cores and find some off eBay, pressure check those, and install them. Next is a brake fluid flush! Thanks go to all of those who commented on my adventures.
Finished installing newly rebuilt front caliper by PMB, new front wheel bearings, new steel braided brake hose ( front and rear), new Porterfield R4-S brake pads, and resurfaced front rotors. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
My last post here was taking out the 308gt4 motor in October. The crank and pistons are back in after the block was machined and the freshly rebuilt heads are on. The oil pump bushings were too loose and out of tolerance so I needed to machine up some new ones. These pumps were essentially assembled and machined together, new bushings cannot simply be pressed in. They will be misaligned and the gears will not spin freely. The bushings need to be finish machined on the lathe, ID, OD oversized about .0015” and pressed in the housing and cover. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Not what I’ve done just today, but this has been my work of late. 1. I cleaned the carburetors and replaced idle jets (.50 to .55); thank you to Pierce Manifolds. 2. I replaced the air filter (original and disgusting). 3. I replaced the fuel filter. 4. My main engine lid release cable snapped so I removed it. Thank goodness the “back-up” released the lid. I ordered a replacement. ETA is 15 March. 5. I removed the torn rear boot storage cover and ordered a new one. ETA is also 15 March. 6. I gapped and installed new NGK plugs. *New plug wires will be next. I am not a pro like many of you on the forum, but I am certainly trying. I could not have done any of these items without your knowledge or input on the forum. Thank you. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Looking good Dane. I just finished cleaning, repacking, and installing new boots on the cv joints. The shafts will go in when I drop the motor in. Yesterday, I machined adapters for my newly acquired Cromodora wheels to accept the smaller Dino emblem. These are actually for the 246 or hub cap 308’s. 52mm vs 55mm. I am very pleased with the results. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I agree Dane, there is a lot of helpful information from these guys.------ Been there - Done that & willing to share their experiance.
Took it out for first time in several weeks to a Weekly Saturday am Porsche meetup. I usually open up the hood to vent hot air better and saw this. Pin hole leak came back….oh joy. [ Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
My tank did this various bodge repairs by the PO .I just bought a black alloy tank from super performance.You will be surprised the hose spouts corrode under the rubber out of sight too .Odd really as the coolant supposed to be anti corrosion stuff for the block + rad , yet the tank rusts out ! This is even with regular coolant changes correct spec etc .OEM tanks must be made of cheapo steel or something?
Changed all the spark plugs as I start trying to adjust the a/f for this altitude. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I just bought one too. Very happy with it apart from the cap not being straight when tightened! Sig www.pless.com.au/mechanics.htm
Coolant isn't doing it. The steam that corrodes the top of the tank is coolant free thanks to the distilling process. Steam is very corrosive and if you could see inside there are 1000 pits ready to leak. Cannot be fixed. Buy a new one. The hose nipples rust because the liquid seeps in there and stays long after the anti corrosion properties wear out.
The rear diagonal braces and lengthwise tubes to the rear frame header are a good idea. The rectangular longerons flex a lot on vigorously driven cars sometimes buckling the sheet metal usually filling in the open space. Really good area to stiffen the chassis. Its a more serious car than it looks with all the body work in place.
Well, much of the frame is different as it’s all done to the FIA Group 4 homologation spec (this car has all the FIA Group 4 homologation and accompanying FIA HTP). As a result, it’s pretty impressive to drive. Biggest issue now is sorting out the mixture and the timing and such. As soon as I get that to a good place, I’ll change spark plugs again to the good NGK ones and carry on. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I experimented with making dimples for building my own style markers for outlaw and the Dino Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Took it out this morning on a test run. It runs STRONG at the current set up. Of course not as fast my 360 or F40 obviously but definitely faster than my old 348 Challenge. It feels like it’s in 355 territory at 275hp and 950kg. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
My pistons look kind of like your except for the part on top. My rods are way different though. Yours are on top. Who made them? Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
