1987 3.2 US spec cranks n start

Did the annual oil change on Tuesday and everything worked as designed. Came out today to go for a ride and car will crank but not start. Appears to be a fuel issue, since if I shoot a little gas past the throttle plate it will fire and then quit. Checked connector at fuse box (which is only a little over a year old, GT model) and rearranged the fuel pump relays to see if that helped. No luck. Its a US Spec 3.2, and yes, it has the blue safety switch on the fuel distributor assembly. Fuel pump looks like it has been there from day one, so maybe its time has come, but looking for some diagnostic advice before buying a new one. TIA!

 

With the key on remove the blue plug and see if you can hear the fuel pump run. If not look at the fuel pump power output at the fuse board and see if it is discolored.

 

"Jumping" (connecting) the two pins in the blue safety switch harness connector is the wrong thing to do -- when they are not connected (i.e., the harness connector is unplugged from the safety switch) and the key is "on" = the fuel pump should run (as Brian posted). If it doesn't, remove the fuel pump relay and use a jumper wire to connect the metal female 30 terminal in the relay socket to the metal female 87 terminal in the relay socket = the fuel pump should run even with the key "off":

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If the fuel pump doesn't run with the jumper, post back and we'll go from there (and you've checked the fuse, right?)

If the fuel pump does run with the jumper in place, remove the jumper, plug the ...113 fuel pump relay back in, and try a different ...101 relay in the "fuel injection delivery pump starting-relay" position.

 

Thanks Steve. I’ll attack it in the morning and report back with results.

 

Double checked the fuse, its fine. Pulled the fuel pump relay and used the jumper wire as per your diagram but got only silence. Next step?

 

With the fuel pump relay removed, measure the voltage between:
1. the metal female terminal 30 and chassis ground, and
2. the metal female terminal 87 and chassis ground.
One of them should be +12V. If:
A. neither measures +12V = there's an (unusual) upstream power problem (and would have to check the schematic to look for other places to measure).
B. one of them does measure +12V = then you've got to get to the fuel pump and confirm/deny if there is +12V at the fuel pump terminals when the 30-to-87 jumper is in place in the fuel pump relay socket (and check things like is the fuel pump's ground connection OK, or not). If there is +12V present between the two terminals of the fuel pump, but the fuel pump doesn't run = buy a new fuel pump.

 

Thanks again Steve. Will follow the list and see where it takes me.

 

So, had power at the relay plug on the 30 connector, crawled under and didn't seem to be getting any volts at the pump. It was, in fact, awfully corroded on both posts, so took the wires off, cleaned everything up, put it back together and now it runs. I would bet it is the original pump, since it has evidence of the factory undercoating on it, so I'll probably buy one and put it on the shelf.
Thanks Steve and Brian. I owe you one! (Actually, probably about 10 at this point, but who's counting?)

 

I love reading posts like there. Steve has helped me from time to time as well. Much appreciated.


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