430 430 Scuderia Maintenance - What Else?

I used the 76 for the press in.

 

Got the new one in. I used 74/64 against the bushing. No heat/freezer, just grease and a few good tries to get started, then the Ryobi impact with a socket to finish it in.

Next...

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A quick side maintenance job, changing the “Active Carbon Filter”. Even with everything I’ve got out of the way, it needed a little persuasion. I expected the old one to be heavier, 5.35 lbs. vs. 4.00 lbs. for the new one. I’m getting to know many of the nooks in here.

Also throwing in a 10 year old picture of me and the car, what it was built for.

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So what’s this about? I unbolted the axles from the gearbox – the left side everything was dry, but the right side had some dirty lubricant on each bolt as I took them out, and about 10 drops dripped out once I separated the axle. It did not smell like foul gear oil and the outside was totally dry.

You can see on the threads of the bolt.

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If anyone has any feedback on the fluid in my one axle, please let me know, I want to make sure I sort out any issues.

Meanwhile, while the rear is up on jack stands, I sent the wheels out for a repaint, and had some new sneakers installed. Also new TPMS sensors. I’ll deal with trying to use the Launch X431 to get them working with the car once I get to the front wheels (and that’s gonna be a little while). The new style stem is different (which you cannot tell from my pictures), you sort of have to "crush" the rubber ring before you can properly torque it down.

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Could the oil just be liquefied cv grease from a sloppy install at the factory? As for the carbon filter, does it simply weigh more due to the accumulation of condensed fuel vapors over the years? If so then mine probably weighs 20 pounds LOL.

 

The fluid inside the outlet flange cup is normal, and the assembly can go back together without it.

 

I’m back from a break and have since done some small jobs, some of which I picked up on from other’s older posts.

I pulled out the aftermarket Blaupunkt Subs and Hertz Mids speakers and cabinets behind the seats to get access to the relays back there. Also gave myself full access to the Audison amp and Hertz crossovers in the trunk. Rewired things properly and confirmed continuity (have not turned the car on).

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I replaced the following relays purely as preventative maintenance – to make them a ‘non-issue’. If anyone can suggest other relays, please do.

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I also replaced the one busted/missing leather strap I had in the trunk – the rear one on the right panel. I paid the price and bought a replacement OEM strap a while ago (P/N 68987200), I didn’t know there was an alternate at the time (live and learn). I drilled out the old rivets and used new aluminum rivets (3/16x1/2). I always thought that strap to be in a bad place as the documentation case that’s in there is barely held in by it. The upper part of the strap is way too high and the whole strap is too far back. I’ll put some black foam behind my doc case to pad it out.

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Also replaced the the door latching plates on both sides (P/N 85321500) and the Accelerator Pedal Spring (P/N 175351) using a little NLGI2 grease.

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I'm now getting a parts list together for the clutch work I am convincing myself I can do...

 

I bought every single relay...but alas, have not installed one of them. I did preventively replace the F1 pump relay three years ago. What you have done looks entirely reasonable, and ones most of concern.

 

Here's my preliminary parts list for the clutch replacement. Any feedback is appreciated; again I have never changed a clutch before myself and am still getting used to all the different names that every frickin’ part has! The first section in my list is the Ricambi kit. The others are from the parts tables – all parts highlighted in the diagrams below (whose copyrights remain with whoever the owner is).

The kit includes the pilot bearing, but not the rear main seal (highlighted in blue below)? Why wouldn’t I want to replace that – the old one is coming off to get the old bearing out anyway, right?

Also, for those who have done this work, is all this doable with the gearbox left in the engine bay being finagled around – the WSM says the clutch can be done like that – this might allow me to leave the eDiff hoses attached/sealed. I’ve been watching Ratarossa’s video, reading the WSM and whatever else I can. Any other tips or suggestions are very welcome before I commence ‘separation’ (of the gearbox/engine)…

Thanks,
Ron


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Remove the gearbox if you want to do it right.
It's not hard to remove it. Couple of hours of work.

 

@RonScuderia honestly, I don't know why 200323 isn't in the F430 (and 360, I suppose) kits. I could perhaps say we're trying to hold the overall costs down -- but in the scheme of things, the rear main seal is a pretty minor addition. (Keep in mind, unless you have the tools/picks/stuff to pull seals, you may also consider the addition of Hill Engineering ST-02)

I'll fix the kit listings now to add a rear-main seal, but likely won't have time to take a new photos until much later in the day.

 

Thanks so much for the response - I assume this is Daniel? I totally understand keeping the kit cost down, but for me since I'm going to separate the engine and gearbox anyway, well you see what I have listed and I'm hoping that's pretty much all of it. You mention the 200323 rear main seal, but the 430 Scuderia list shows 240214 - is that correct? Maybe that's why you didn't include it in the kit if it's indeed supposed to be a different part versus the F430.

I do have some tools/picks/punches/slide hammer/etc and will get my hands on whatever tools I need. The ST-02 would definitely be useful, but your site does not specifically mention its can be used with the 240214 seal (it does specify the 200323 and one other). Can it? I just want to be as sure as I can be about everything before I really get into it.

Ron

 

Understand, thanks. I'm in my garage, rear end on jack stands. I don't have a hoist, so I'm hoping to finagle the gearbox out the bottom like Ratarossa did (16:30 in the video) with the help of a least one other person. I can buy a hoist if I need to, and the rear of the car is facing out so I have the space, but I don't know that I'll ever use a hoist again so...

 

The Scud technically uses 240214, which I have in stock. The difference is that 240214 is 12mm thick while 200323 is 10mm thick. The kick in the nuts is that the original Ferrari catalogs listed both seals as the same size (but they are not).

I am not smart enough to know why there's a difference between the two, or how it impacts the job. It's Italian, so it'll leak anyway. Maybe it's just a question of whether it leaks before before, or after the Purosange is released and Enzo rolls over in his grave.

I'll try to update the website for this kit in a little while.

 

Thanks again Daniel, it's appreciated. So they're both 100mm diameter(?), then I'm going to say the ST-02 will work with the 240214 as well. I see you've already updated your site and I've updated my cart.

And whenever it is that the Purosange is released, we all know where to get parts for it!

 

Yes, ST-02 should work for the 240214 exactly the same.

 

I was wrong to guess that you would have to replace the Rear Main Seal when replacing the Pilot Bearing (as shown in Ratarossa's video). But why wouldn't I replace that pretty important seal now? Am I going to need the gasket shown in his video at 33:00 which I have yet to find in the parts diagrams (his is a 360)? I'll know when I get there...

Some tweaks to my parts list, moving the Rear Main Seal into the kit, adding the ST-02 tool and the 2 "screws" referenced as #23 (in Table 24 shown above) that pass thru the flange.

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Thanks for the help so far, I'm sure I'll be reaching out for more.

Anyone have an opinion as to whether or not I need to/will end up replacing my flywheel? As we know, it's not cheap (I know there are alternatives, but I am staying OEM/stock). I have no idea what the flywheel will look like when I get there (how much can I see with an endoscope?). Is it possible/likely I can "send it out" to make it practically new? Reminder the car has 19,9XX miles and Launch X431 said 65% usage on the clutch.

Ron

 

Well, after taking some time to follow the WSM (430 Scuderia - Section D2.01) “Removing the complete gearbox-differential assembly” to the “T”, it was finally a decent day weather-wise (and it’s supposed to get crappy again tomorrow). So I opened my garage door for the first time since winter and set up my new HF engine crane and, along with my transmission jack, I had complete separation in less than 15 minutes – a very easily done one-man job (and I’m 62!). Didn’t even touch the frame at all.

Good to see the original Release/Thrust/Throw-out bearing rolls smooth and quiet and springs back out when I press it in on the EOS studs.

I’ll take/post more pix when I get it apart but if anyone notices anything in these photos, please let me know. I took some video, I might set up a YT channel.

So as I wait for a couple more parts to arrive tomorrow, it’s time to clean, clean, clean!

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Ron

15 minutes after all things removed ..bumper etc

TIA

Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk

 

This is totally freaking awesome and inspiring! Great work! Thanks for doing this and documenting. One question: since you got the tranny out from under the frame using a jack, was the engine hoist just to stabilize the transmission before you secured it to the jack below? I am excited to follow your progress and might just follow your lead when my time comes (I have a four post lift so it might even be easier for me to get everything properly positioned). I might try it if for no other reason than to take the opportunity to try to clean everything up so it looks as good as your engine bay! Holy crap that is clean!

 

Yeah, everything 100% ready (including straps already around the gearbox) and everything drained/disconnected and outta the way. 15 minutes to position the jack and crane and "separate", position the gearbox (up and over the cross-bar of the frame, turning the gearbox rear to the left), and pull the crane out.

 

Hey Scott, I was back and forth on the crane - based on at least three different YouTubers and other readings. I figured it cost me about what an hour in the shop would have so I just felt better getting it - not knowing the actual weight of the trans and knowing I was going to first give it a shot by myself. Having now taken it out, I know I could do it with one other person and just the transmission jack (no crane), but would have probably had to rest it on the crossbar (which I did not touch at all).

 

I quickly created a YouTube Channel - RonScuderia (if searching, you have to make it search without any spaces) and I uploaded my unedited videos. I'll upload more as I go forward. Individual links:

Ferrari 430 Scuderia Clutch Replacement 1 - All Prepped, Before Separating Gearbox
Ferrari 430 Scuderia Clutch Replacement 2 - Separating The Gearbox
Ferrari 430 Scuderia Clutch Replacement 3 - A Look Inside At The Old Stuff

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Awesome! Saw there was also a gearbox breather that gave someone else issues. Might want to swap that too? (or inspect/clean)