They do. I was referencing that since he's using stainless instead of aluminum for the coolant pipes there's going to be even more galvanic action going on.
I'm pretty sure the anode won't help with that and the SS won't cause it. The parts are electrically isolated by the silicone hose connectors so there should be minimal galvanic action....if I'm remembering the corrosion class right.
From what I remember there has to be contact between the metals to create the circuit so good to keep the SS pipe from touching the chassis/body.
Yes it needs 3 requirements: Two electrochemically dissimilar metals, An electrically conductive path between the two metals, and An electrolyte to allow the flow of metal ions. Until the QV engine the liners are iron, and let's not forget the studs. So right from the get go the engine meets all 3 unless one can manage a non conductive coolant. The anode should be larger then the cathode... Wonder what the surface area is between them. Al is the anode btw. The index delta between aluminum and stainless is huge. Definitely a yearly coolant flush candidate.
Right, but the stainless tubes shouldn't part of the corrosion path because they are electrically insulated unless they are p-clamped to the frame but they shouldn't be. In the block the anode isn't the alum, its the zinc plating on the studs and bolts and protects the alum from the steel...unless like me you decide they would be prettier and easier to make in SS as it saves the plating step then there is a problem.
I’ll have 3 different metals in the the cooling system, the barbed connectors that join silicone hose to silicone hose is aluminum, stainless tubes, steel liners and coolant box, lots of monkey motion
Built the pipes most of the way today, all stainless. Have a feeling it may be loud Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Mounted the water tank, hate it but I’m moving on for now, battery box in. I need the carb banjo fuel tank return bolt if anyones holding Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Lots of banjo bolts online for £5-7. Also some nice looking polished aluminium header tanks not too expensive.
Put in some time today, found a regular banjo for the fuel, drilled and tapped a hole and that’s done. Moved on to the electromotive, didn’t want to hide it, want everything to be utility, test mule, quick no frills in and out so I made a bracket and plate to mount the potatoes. Sure it’s weird, sure it’s out there but I kinda like it until I figure something else out, oh and I went coward on the oil cooler and moved it back in the engine area Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I would be curious to find out how you go through the process of programming and turning this? I have a car with one of these an it is not dialed in at all.
Why not go with a Nitrous Oxide system while your at this stage, I think this car deserves the option for a 50 - 75 HP shot in the ass at will. It looks like you have some good options on where to put the large multi - pound bottle in that machine. What do you think ? I think it would be a nice addition , and for you to have the option would make up for the lower output of that power plant . Thank you
So far my plan is to plug it in and see what happens. My other idea is that Windsock on here has experience with these and local or whine at Smg2 and take the whole pile to Nicks place. I’m a builder/fabricator, analog for life. I can barely type this reply
Car is remaining in an 80’s timeline, I’m building this car for street use so it’s just a noise maker. It’ll impress people who don’t have knowledge of the hairy 70’s and mustached 80’s Ferraris. Btw mine will be the lightest and fastest one out there