current drain

My 87 testarossa has always had a current drain because it would have a dead battery after a week. I determined that I was going to find the problem. I disconnected the battery ground and put an amp meter in the circuit. I then pulled each fuse one at a time. The 0.16 amp would go to 0.06 amp when fuse 2 was pulled. No others affected the amperage. Fuse 2 is door lights and interior lights. I then opened the door and the amps jumped to 2.56amps. I took the puddle light and end light out and the amps dropped to 2.46amps so the problem is not in the door but in the interior. I then went to the other door and got the same results, confirming it is in the interior. I went to the footwell on the passenger side and disconnected the 4 connections (one at a time) with no change. The 4 connections are on the floor in a metal holder.
I am at a loss.
Suggestions!!!!
Thanks,
Burnell Curtis

 

The dome light is on but it is off when the door is shut and when open is on but could not possibility draw 2 amps. The spot lights on the roof are off and when on draw little amperage. I will check the fuse relay panel to see if something has been added. In summary, nothing is suppose to be on this circuit that draws that much amperage.
Thanks

 

My TR had an alarm system and I took it out. It also had an aftermarket sound system that I took out. I have unplugged every device in the console and no effect on the current drain. I unplugged the harness at the right of the passenger's feet and the draw dropped 1.5 amps so that means that part of the draw is before the harness and part after. My radio is on fuse 5 and is unplugged for this test. I am out of ideas intil I get some inspiration. My guess is that the people that installed the alarm system or the sound system used the wrong wires but to power what presently???

 

Most of my problem is solved. The dome light draws more that 2 amps. I opened it up and there are 8 tube lights and they draw lots of current. If you want to test yours, you get to the bulbs by bending the plastic cover in the middle and slipping the front of the plastic out of slots. The plastic sheet has two tabs on the front that goes into the slots. Do not try and remove the whole piece of plastic as it holds the three switches and you could break the small edge holding the switches. My problem is not solved as fuse 2 draws 0.17 amps with the doors shut and this is too much. Does anyone know if the door switch controls anything in the engine compartment? The drawings are hard to read.
Thanks.

 

Problem found. The 0.17amps is being drawn by the drivers side door locking mechanism. Mine does not work and I have to lock the car manually. Does anyone know that the normal draw would be? If you are curious, just take the neg terminal off the battery, but an ampmeter between the battery and cable, and then take apart the c1 terminal, which is located by the brake booster. Whatever is measured is used by the lock mechanism. Doors closed of course.
Thanks everyone. If I knew that the current drain was abnormal, I would open the door and fix it. Otherwise, maybe not.
Burnell

 

Here is the bad part Image Unavailable, Please Login 8Iis the part connected to the drivers side lock mechanism. When I unplugged it my current draw went almost to zero (radio fuse out but clock in). My radio draws a lot, about 0.15. I will look for another of the above but have little hope of finding one. One of the circuit boards is burned on this one. Oh well, not having auto lock of passenger door is not too bad.
Thanks everyone

 

Here is a photo of the unit. I do not know if it crosses to a lancia. Sam, I gave up repairing circuit boards long ago, for good reason. Now, does anyone know why my speedometer and odometer pegs out and I have a sending unit that is two years old. Image Unavailable, Please Login 9

 

The reason to not repair is I am very bad at repairing circuit boards, I usually not repairing them and ruining them.
Burnell