348 Engine repair thread

Ugh... got stopped almost immediately, the water manifold cross pipe studs were too rough for my liking so I yanked them out and ordered new stainless ones from bell metric.

Also some of the cylinder head manifold studs had issues with the threads at the top where the nut starts. Had to run a thread chaser down 3 of them and one of them I had to file off the first thread it was so bad. After that I chased it and crisis averted.

Green hose is new too, I fact every cooling hose is new. That stupid Z shaped one is close to $200.

Hope to compete next weekend.
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With all the posts going back 10 years about the Elring gaskets not sealing and water flowing the jacket seals between head and block, I figured I'd fill up the block via water jacket in the manifolds with distilled water while I'm waiting and see if there are any leaks without applying any pressure. We'll see how that looks overnight and when I get the studs and put the cross manifold I'll seal it up and do a quick low pressure test.


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Okay so the belt adjusted and fully tensioned was 188 HZ. I backed it down just a hair I'm at 144 hz that's where it will stay.
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Remedied the corroded manifold studs with new SS ones. Now back at it. Btw there is my new spring bag with the old spring in it as a spare.
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I tried a few, They all pretty much did the same thing with the same result but different interface, that one is CarlTune and it was the simplest interface.

 

Replaced TB gaskets and fresh gold nuts. 3 new Solenoids. Note the new fuil rail bolts and new dome caps. I put degree wheel back on, checked 2mm down either side from TDC. got 17 degrees both sides, so my TDC settings I did prior to the heads installed with stop plate. The checked cam timing marks again, I fiddled and changed pin settings here and there and back to here to get it like that. I ordered grade 8 bolts for the intake I will replace those as they are corroded and not pretty with new stainless wave washers to boot.

And here is where I am.

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Well all the other stuff too, new gaskets, nuts, bolt, studs, washers, parts, everything torqued and general progress. As far as cam timing marks, engine is true TDC, cam marks are lined up. Next I'll check lobe centerline method but the marks should be as correct as possible to start. Feeling really crappy today not sure I'll get to get in there.

 

Ohh no sorry, I set the true TDC with piston stop on the short block. Then installed heads and set the cam marks. Once I got the marks exactly right I then again verified the true TDC with piston dial indicator and degree wheel. Double check everything is still correct.

BTW it was not until I set the belt tension correctly that the reference marks lined exactly up, had to crank the motor many times after setting 144hz then they came in. Prior to that they would be 1/2 width off on either side of the cap marks when I changed dowel pin locations and cranked it 4-6 full rotations. Super frustrating.

So as of now my marks are dead nuts and I have true TDC on the dial indicator soI will verify timing, I will wager $100 that they are absolutely correct reference marks as timing marks. My theory is they are sometimes marks off regarding timing, it is tricky to get the marks exact they are often off on one bank just a hair one way or the other. Plus as belt stretches that tiny bit, marks that are off at the start means they will be even further off next belt service if you set marks and all it good.

Its so precise on mine (now after endless fiddling and tensioning and turning over and over and over and checking and rechecking wash rinse repeat...) I can't imagine they would bother with marks that are "sort of" correct, its all just math after all. The verify timing step is to account for slight off of marks I suspect. Well that's my theory at least. Maybe it accounts for cams coming from different vendors perhaps (possible variation), who knows.

I read though FBB's post and confirmed with him, his marks, lobe centerline and open/close checks were all the same. So why bother checking? So you know on your engine, (it's Italian after all) if the timing is correct when set up exact with reference marks then you will never have to do it again on a belt change. Cuts down time to do belt service and raises confidence. Need to drill holes in my TDC plate to mount it to cam cap studs first.

Only person who ever said their timing marks were off was KevZep and I have IM'd a lot of folks on that point. Ernies thread the marks were correct as well.

I mean why would one engines marks with the same cams and pistons and chain gears etc be correct on some and 6 degrees off on another? One possible explanation is TDC vs true TDC, perhaps bad indicator calibration etc. It just makes no sense that its off if dome the same way otherwise it would be off for everyone? I can't explain it, maybe some cams are refurbs or what not, but I will be my marks and timing line up.

We'll see how this theory pans out... at least on my engine. Your results may indeed vary, its Italian!.

 

Figured I'd do the headers and injectors, I hate all those open holes to the engine pistons. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

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Exhaust 111.5 degrees as max left. Yep that's dead nuts.

There is the true TDC start confirmed (yet again using dial indicator and degree wheel), once set rotate CW for max open, there is the result of exhaust.
Will do intake after lunch.


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Ugh wrong pic above. Foggy head small phone...

So indeed on my car the assembly reference marks are also the timing marks which is not surprising. How much you want to bet even the best Indy shops line up marks and call it good. Now there is some dwell on the highest point of the lobe lift, its roughly 2 - 2.5 degrees. For example the intake starts at 109.x and finishes at 111.x before coming back up. The picture above I said was exhaust was actually the intake at the far end of the lobe dwell.

Intake and exhaust 1-4 bank.
Intake 109.5 degrees
Exhaust 111.5 degrees

Anyhow there we have it, seems my obsessing on getting those timing marks exactly, not "mostly, yeaaaah kindaaaaa, I guess if you look at it that angle" right, must have paid off. Is it the same on other cars. Likely. I mean with marks off a bit it can translate to a few degrees on the crank. Pretty sure the degreeing step it to verify for timing marks and account for those not exactly right, fix it on the back end.

Who knows, maybe someone who does this for a living whos done dozens of 348's can comment, maybe I am way off base. This is all just my theory but c'mon as an engineer, timing is math why bother calculating where to put the marks when manufacturing and then choose to move it off a few degrees off. Just makes no sense to me but maybe I am way off base somehow.

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Btw when the belt tension is correct, I used these to pull the pins, I coated them with light oil, the cams don't really move when you pull the timing gear pins. At least on my motor. Image Unavailable, Please Login

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New brackets for the new Bosch IAC's. Verify shim clearance and lube the lobes up. The tappets we're lubed prior to reinstall of cam seals and torquing caps. New hoses too. Set resistance to TPS to 0 on both sides, it requires movement in hole slop so best to torque and stripe it. Those are new too.
Gap set on belt shoes to .5mm.

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Almost forgot along with making sure your gasket surfaces don't have any debris on them and are smooth they need to be ultra clean with something that doesn't leave any residue behind. Image Unavailable, Please Login

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Okay those valve cover gaskets have a lot of squared edges that don't fit exactly right all round o-rings and those gaskets dig into the o-rings and then they leak. You put Honda bond in the corners so you really want to be sure the gasket is clear of the o-rings. It's fairly delicate and time consuming with multiple snips double check snipped double check hold the gasket in place with some through bolts.

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Getting there...
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Glad your watching! 0 difference between them I meant, set at 1k at close. The specs I got from Ernie were below and they were mighty close, just minor tweaking is all it took. https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/348-throttle-position-sensor-adjustment.453969/

1k & #937; ohms at rest
2.5k-2.8k & #937; ohms at wide open throttle

If there is another way Miroljub, pass along the WSM page I will have a look!

 

Walla.
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Which pins are used?

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