F355 water temp. HELP

Way over filled. When cold no higher than 6cm from the top of the filler neck...and many cars it need to be lower, like 8 or 9cm max from the top of filler neck. Also, the caps do go bad, and may be worth replacing preventively, if not already done.

 

The Owner's Manual says that "the level must not fall below 6-8 cm below the filler cap" meaning that 6-8 cm below the cap is the minimum level, not maximum. The maximum is not specified since this is not really important. If overfilled, the system will just push out the excess and then the level will be stable. If, after the initial overflow, the coolant stops overflowing and the level is stable, everything is fine. If the coolant continues to be repeatedly pushed out and the level gradually goes down, then there is a problem somewhere.

 

Yes it went on some times and then the idle went a bit down but much higher then before the cleaning of the pressure switch contacts.
also pressure whas way higher on idle. I don'nt know if the lower outside temperature had to deal with that.

I did not bleed it, do not know how ?

 

do I have to remove the plastic cap around the water expansion tank and between the cylinder banks to access the breather / bleeder ?
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can i also bleed the cooler circuit by running the engine and leaving the expansion fat cap off for a while?
or let it warm up a bit not to maximum operating temperature but a little and shut the engine off and leave the cap off for a while so that the air bubbles can rise out of the hot water?
That might be easier than getting to the breather?

 

The oil pressure sender contacts (wire terminals) have no relationship to idle speed. The switch/sender only sends information to the gauge (and light). Also, cleaning the terminal for the light can only increase the chances of the oil pressure light illuminating. A better contact allows the light circuit to work better. Removing the wire (increasing the circuit resistance to infinity) will permanently extinguish the light.

 

do I have to suck out the excess water now?
instead of unloading the plug under a radiator because then it might drain completely.

 

then i don't know why the rpm's where better , pressure whas higher and pressure light didn't light up. maybe because of put down the aircon butten and put the heater button on zero ?

 

The battery reset/relearning process may have helped.

Did you clean the idle air controller, too (connector and internals)?

 

I have a multipurpose pump for oil and coolant, like this...

https://www.amazon.com.au/Extractor-Manual-Changer-Suction-Transfer/dp/B09TKDJFFZ/ref=asc_df_B09TKDJFFZ/?

but I guess there are cheaper alternatives.

 

no i did not clean that yet

 

Turkey baster works, you do not have to remove that much to bring it down.