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According to some wiring diagrams, there is no blue/grey wire on the driver's door. There's a blue/black going from the switch to the driver's door plug, but that's an earth wire. The commands from the switch are sent to the Window ECU and the ECU sends power to the window motor via pins 21 and 22 of the door connector. i.e. white/red and grey/white wires respectively. I would go by pin numbers rather than wire colours as the harnesses vary from car to car.
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The polarity of the voltage going to the motor on those two wires will change depending on up/down direction. I don't know if the voltage would be present with the door connector unplugged (the Window ECU logic may not function with the connector unplugged (???)).

Here's a wiring diagram I use for the door internals:

https://www.dropbox.com/t/VfE082uoUFygQFz1

The window motor is "6M"

And for the rest of the wiring, we have a very complicated diagram:

https://www.dropbox.com/t/xPWsPj4E17ZXvQI5

Unfortunately, if the window will not move (automatically or manually), there could be 101 reasons.

What is the current position of the windows (are they slightly dropped?). There is a switch (7M) which senses window position and reports this to the Window ECU and the Window ECU tells the Roof ECU that the window is down (and the roof won't damage the window during opening and closing). These switches are known to go out of adjustment or fail. Or perhaps the wiring was disturbed during doorlock repair. You can check the state of the switch by checking pins 8 and 14 on the door plug. Window up = open circuit. Window down = closed circuit.

Does the roof go down or won't it now move at all?

 

Interesting, does this mean you can diagnose door problems by disconnecting this plug and measuring from the door socket

 

Only some problems. e.g. The triple microswitch on the lock barrel is a bit of a mystery. The weird cams on the switch open and close the microswitches at different key rotation angles. Also, you have to know what microswitches are fitted. The later cars have an additional microswitch on the interior handle. Also, a lot of owners have narrow garages which makes it difficult to access the door connector.

As the driver's side window stays up, perhaps the Roof ECU is reluctant to move the roof canvas until it has seen both windows go down a little.

The window motor might not be hooked up properly or is jammed by something. Or the signal from the Window ECU is not getting to the motor. Unfortunately, there are a lot of unknowns at the moment. Probably you should see if the window motor will move by directly applying 12 volts power to the appropriate door plug pins. If you can get the window to move down with direct power, and you reconnect the plug, the roof may start moving. Then you will have to figure out why the Window ECU is not sending signals to the motor.

This is just one branch of diagnosis. There may be many. Unfortunately, we don't really know what parts of the door wiring was disturbed by the lock change.