My Ferrari F355 GTS

That looks pretty good!


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Never knew Iding Power offered springs (made by Eibach)


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That center exhaust, and the entire rear bumper, are hideous. Simply terrible. Apparently designed by someone whose parents never told him no.

 

love the wheels though, general dual 5 spoke style wise.

 

What’s amazing to me is these pics are from a Frankfurt show from 1995. How in the world did they come out with all these products and full engine build so quickly? Even their own 355 specific wheels made by BBS.

 

Someone had early access [emoji41]


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https://www.idingpower-confidential.jp/idingpower-approved-認定中古車/在庫車両一覧/コンプリート-f385-s3-ロッソコルサ-6mt/

 

They might have even had upgraded sway bars, which would be ahead of challenge/fiorano development. I need to find clearer pics to confirm.



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Reza,

Have your shop set your car's ride height at the Factory recommendation found in the Workshop Manual. The WSM also shows the Factory-recommended alignment parameters (Toe-in, camber and caster). Those settings should be good for your Norway location.

Barry

 

His car has FHP. I'm not sure if FHP specs were listed in WSM.

 

The WSM gives a range for ground clearance. Delta Vee's Rob Schermerhorn, in his blog, recommends no more than 15mm positive rake as a starting point. Alignment specs will change with lowering. For road cars he recommends:

For a road car the compromise is ride height, just keep it as high as practicable, but use the rake and alignment recommendations with the exception of camber/ toe. This much camber combined with this much toe will increase tire wear rates. Closer to WSM camber and toe will increase tire longevity.

Delta Vee offers the Ferrari F355 Sport Suspension which emulates FHP. Rob's blog goes on to discuss any change in specs that might be involved and again ranges are given which a shop can follow.

He should keep his car at Factory specifications. He'll be using his car on Norwegian roads and not tracking his vehicle.

 

https://minkara.carview.co.jp/smart/userid/393555/car/664629/1510623/note.aspx

 

So after around 1000km drive got some issues, the front trunk will not open on one side when I use the leaver only right side open, so I used the emergency leaver under left side but when I pull it out it was not attached to anything so came complete off.

See this now its complete off not attached to anything:

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Next issue I have had from day after I came to Norway is suspension light have turned on, I know I had issue with one of the actuator but was changed with used. Maybe some other actuator need replacement?

For the front trunk is there anything I can do myself or better get some shop to fix? Also is there any chance to buy new actuators?

 

Unfortunately that is an assembly issue on the frunk- aka bonnet. While not impossible? It will be extremely difficult to release without cables attached - extremely. Trying to avoid sheet metal damage is the goal and a challenge. You need to find a patient person with access to a working 355 bonnet and devise a game plan. It does have some flex and you can gain some access, but that emergency cable has one job and it failed when not properly secured into position. Sorry.


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I just went out to my spider and duplicated your issue visually. Practically impossible. GTS is above lift, so looking under that car, you may have to remove wheel and drill a large access hole, using a hole saw under rail to frunk area and welding back up. That is an extreme response but my first analysis after looking at it on both my cars from different vantage points. Not ideal, but you have to get under that latch. You can cut striker, but nearly impossible to get a saw to it. Harden steel and just no access.

The cables pull at the back the latch body, releasing a “pawl” that causes latch to open. A long screw driver from below can access the underside of the latch and maybe release that pawl.

Wheel has to come off and have a car nearby that that you can remove upper liner from and see what I am describing.

This happen in the collision industry and some cars you can see where you need to be, others, you cut a hole in hood or trunk for the fast route. I am someone who prefers a scalpel to a chainsaw approach, but some cases you have no choice.


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Thanks Rob for taking time and write great info, now I’m really sad I’m afraid this shop in Norway will destroy some stuff if I let them try tomorrow.

what is the best solution you guys think? I think when Stradale Vintage Cars assembled the car maybe they not secure this correct? It worked like some days after I picked up the car. Like one week after left side did not open and emergency left side was not attached

 

If Stradale forgot to attach the emergency cable i can only see that they are the ones who should take full responsibility to fix it, not your problem.

And regarding the actuator you need a new working one, you can send them to a guy who repairs them or find a used one, new ones are EOL since long and not available to order.

 

Yeah problem they are in Netherlands and the car is in Norway, tomorrow I will go to shop hope they can fix it

 

Just put the car on a truck and transport it down to them.

 

Will take too long + closed truck to them will cost 10k EUR back + forward minimum.

 

If the knob of the emergency release detached from the cable, is there a way to grab ahold of the cable and pull it? Or did the cable detach from the latch?

 

The cable and the knob, please see picture + diagram

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Here is the diagram
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They might be able to remove where emergency cable comes into the cabin - the ferrule end might be able to be removed and a long pick tool used to go end and grab the pawl. Some tool companies make 12” and 18” pick tools. They also make some semi flexible that you can bend. I wish the car was here, cause I like a good challenge. Maybe the cable is out of adjustment and possible to remove the pull handle and grab more cable to pull that has to much slack to passenger side. Could remove the pull handle in cabin on A-Pillar area where the black handle is located. Maybe getting that out and free will have access to other cables. And maybe just maybe enough cable to over extended what lever does and get latch to release.

I wear out latches with a screw driver to kick over the latch and pawl, to test latch before closing anything! I triple check it. Not my first Rodeo and I have solved some difficult ones, but sometimes a saw is the only way :-(


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I have booked time at shop so in 11-12 hours I will be there with the car, hope they can fix this If they cant fix I have to take the car to Ferrari dealer, but I think the Ferrari dealer they good on newer cars.

 

You need to find a restoration shop that is patient, smart and creative. The dealer has no one that knows that car unless they are older guys and experienced. You need another car that an owner will let parts get removed to see options.

Find who else has 355’s in Norway. It is really on the shop you paid. They need to fly a tech in. Whoever assembled the bonnet and latches needs to bring tools and come solve the issue! Cheap to fly in and fix a clients problem they more than likely caused. That is what I would push for.


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