I totally realized I didn't mention when to tighten the degree wheel.... ugh. So put the degree wheel close to the assumed TDC. Then find TDC, move the wheel closer to the correct position and tighten the nut holding the wheel in place. Then double check it 2 or 3 more times and bend the hanger to point to zero on your wheel.
Brilliant, impressive, and well done. Very informative and educational. Huge thanks for this tutorial.
So I'll be the first to bring up some debate for my own video LOL. You'll notice in the video, pay attention to the position of the degree wheel while I'm turning it, in contrast to its resting position when I'm not turning it. There is roughly a 1° difference. To clarify my example, let's say I'm shooting to get that 2.41 mm number and I'm turning the crank, you'll actually notice that the gauge says I'm already 1° past zero when there is pressure on the crank. As soon as I let go of my breaker bar, it rests at 0* My assumption is this is simply just the stretch of the belt. So theory number one, the motor is obviously turning while running, so you should use the preloaded number(with rotational pressure on the breaker bar) and not the static number to get a more accurate timing. Now to debate my own theory, Ferrari never mentioned to do this with a load on the crank, so hopefully they already assumed the preload stretch, and thus they intended it to be done static and so all the numbers listed have already taken this into account. Thoughts?
First, great video. Regarding the belt stretch thing. I tried to observe what was happening when the old belts were on but it was inconclusive (TDC and dwell parts). But if the "back lash" is the result of belt stretch or maybe the new belt taking a set would it not maybe suggest that the timing should be set while the belts are under tension? We're only talking about 1 degree here so, as you note, within speck, but just for discussion.
I uploaded the Last video last night. Do me a tiny favor, and hit the like button, thats the key to youtube actually suggesting this to others.
Another great video, Kenny. Thank you. Curious how you locked the crank in order to torque the crank pulley bolt.
Thank you Kenny, this was a super helpful video series! What degree wheel (and pointer) did you use? I need to order one.
The pointer was a common plastic dipped household coat hanger. 355 Crank hub tool: https://amzn.to/3A4om4c Timing wheel: https://amzn.to/39TOMv4 Printable Degree wheel www.blocklayer.com/degree-wheel.aspx
Finally was able to sit down and watch the videos and I must say well done. The detail and presentation was spot on, thanks Ken. I had to laugh when you mentioned the "elites" and how something like a timing belt replacement can turn into a festering feud. It's really a damn shame that there are people that think that just because "they" didn't perform the service, that the VIN should be posted and the car should be sold for scrap. While we all know the level of talent (which has been acknowledged here) and that if level heads would prevail, would be an asset here. Thanks again.
Question for Ken. When you removed the cam sprockets, did you notice any "slop" between the dowel pin and sprocket or dowel pin and cam? Or were they machined precisely and the fitment didn't allow for any axial movement? Thanks
Short answer, yes there is slop, more in the cam than in the sprocket. It would appear that the tolerances are pretty tight, but I noticed that I would get slightly different numbers using the same hole depending on how exactly I tightened the bolt. I checked each measurement probably no fewer than a dozen times each. One of my exhaust was about 3/4 of a degree off. Even though that's within spec, I wanted to be precise, so I started messing with the dowel location. It's hard to describe this, but after tinkering with it for a while I found that if I grabbed the sprocket and held it a hand counterclockwise as I tightened it, there was a measurable change in the timing.... Not huge but it did confirm the "slop". I can't find the post, but there was a guy on here who had an 'allen hex adjustable oval dowel' (similar to the typical suspension alignment bolts) that allowed for an easy adjustment by rotating the dowel. Anyway, I initially was going to add the Dowel movement to the video, but to be honest it's such a trial and error method, possibly would even more controversy than anything else LOL. It would have added 2 hours to the video and nobody would have watched it haha.
Ken, another question, I see that the degree wheel that you are using isn't the comp cams 4790, what is the wheel that you used in the video? Thanks again
Hi Kenny, I am researching torque values and could use your input. The workshop manual gives me the torque values for only a few things- Cam pulleys @ 98nm w/ grease. Tensioner bearings and its pivoting support @ 49nm. Crankshaft pulley @ 196nm w/ medium locktite. I can't find the torque values for: 1) Cam cover 2) Cam seal "covers" (both front and rear) 3) Hydraulic tensioners Not to mention what to torque the subframe nuts/bolts down to but I haven't looked for those yet. What did you use?
Sorry, got busy, forgot to reply The only values listed are on b87-89 in the manual. As you can see, they are organized by size, (m6, m8, m10, m12 etc) As memory recalls, the cam covers and cam seal are M6 so roughly 9nm (not listed) the tensioner M10 is 49nm, but the smaller 2 nuts the hold the actual tensioner in place are likely and M8, so maybe 25 (not listed) sub frame the 12 are the front are m16 and it list a specific value on those at 98nm, the m10 in the wheel well are listed at 50nm. NOTE: I didnt mention this in my video. Just merely working on a 355 is controversial enough lol, to stay out of those discussions, I just said, "torque to spec" on everything. But I'll say it here, Be careful with Ferrari torque values. I found many of them are purely arbitrary, it's almost like they tighten them 'good and tight' at the factory and then somebody went back there and said hey we got to post some values for our manuals... and so they just randomly picked numbers that can or cannot generally coincide with the size of the bolt etc. It's important to realize that there are some critical components that require very specific torque values. But for the majority of everything else, a mechanics touch AKA 'good and tight' is actually ideal
Thank you sir! I appriciate going the extra mile with the torque value sheet from the manual but you are correct. Essentially gets you 20% of the way there. I spoke with some Ferrari mechanics and essentially the missing torque values for these things should be contained in other models WSMs (eg. 308, 328, 348, ect.) and they generally go by the size of the fastener. A friend of mine who is a factory trained tech of MANY years has a bunch of these cataloged for easy reference and I hope to get them before I begin my work. I really appreciate the follow up, thank you. This is the most stressful part for me.
