I swapped out my broken diaphragm spring for the good one today. Pretty easy job but time consuming s quite a few bolts. With an allen key in one side and a socket on the other I loosened all the bolts holding the "diaphragm sandwich" together Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login As you loosen the bolts some of the spacers start to drop out. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Once apart I lay the good one on top of the old one and you can see that other leaves of the spring were about to break. Image Unavailable, Please Login All the parts (minus spacers and bolts) laid out ready for assembly. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Reassembly... Ring in teh center Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Then the spring and spacers Image Unavailable, Please Login Another ring Image Unavailable, Please Login Then bolts Image Unavailable, Please Login Once all the bolts were through I just loosely put the nuts on each one whilst holding it in the air. Image Unavailable, Please Login All back together Note the blue painted balancing marks.
I'd like to regrease the flywheel next, however since MadDog clutches shut down I've no idea what size O rings to buy - especially the large one that is used to seal the case. I'm also unsure of the size of the bolts with ultrafine thread to screw into the inspection bolt holes to split the case apart. Anyone know? Image Unavailable, Please Login
Looks good Jeff. I got all my o rings and the famous "Kluber" grease from Superformance UK. Regarding the process of splitting the cover of the flywheel using a couple of "jack screws" it was very simple and I just used a few metric bolts and gently evenly applied them. You're just lifting the lid enough to release the large o ring and the cover will pop off. Sorry, I don't remember the thread size but it should be obvious. Just make sure your jack bolts have plenty of thread so as not to bind up. JGW
Thanks John. I've bought the correct grease from superperformance but they said they dont stock the o rings??? cant find them on their website and I even rang them so at a bit of a loss now - its holding up the job :-( I have the correct Torx bit - I actually bought it off MadDog This morning I am droppng off my clutch housing to get vapour blasted and clear ceramic coated.
Sorry for a slight OT but as a new 348 owner with a dirty pumpkin I am interested to hear any experiences about cast aluminium clear coats. I assume it is a product like "Cerakote" or are there some special products for this use? Related to the topic in this thread, what is the cost difference between diaphragm spring and full assembly? I have broken my share of pressure plates with P-cars but in that domain typically rebuilding wasn't techno-economically optimal solution.
The thread of the "inspection bolts" is M10 x 1.0. The bit for the other bolts is actually "Ribe", size M8 (sometimes marked RM8): Image Unavailable, Please Login
Its Cerakote they are going to use, however, I reckon I could of just clear coated it with caliper paint or similar. You cant just buy a diaphragm spring - the cheapest alternative if I couldnt of got a a replacement spring is the clutch cover below for £868.64 UK. TBH though - if your replacing that it would be foolish not to do the friction disks too. https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/helix-uprated-clutch-cover-hlx60-5010/
Thanks Milo - Ill order some. I wasnt sure as I was told the thread is ultra/super fine. I actually bought my torx bit from Andrew at MadDog so its definitely the tight size.
My bearing from ferrariparts/Maranello arrived today. As mentioned earlier its an NSK bearing Part # 3208 B2RSRTNGC3 Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login The vapour blasting company emailed me today saying I can collect the bell housing in the morning so will be able to press it in tomorrow all being well
A little late but I just thought I would chime in it is not only possible, but very easy to remove the clutch pumpkin WITHOUT removing the bumper and the upper exhaust can.. I've had mine out 4 times. You just need little fingers and a little patience. Nice work though nice repair.
Hi Matt - you must have tiny hands LOL I just thought the photos would be more interesting with the bumper off plus its so easy to remove its a case of "why not?" Anyway, Bell Housing is back from the vapour blasters - had them do it inside and out followed by a coat of clear Cerakote so it should stay that way. very pleased with it. Just got to repaint the script and cavalino back on Image Unavailable, Please Login
Andrew informs me that F A G bearing 3208-BD-2HRS-TVH-C3 is compatible too (and about 1/2 price of the NSK)
I see that NSK 3208 B2RSRTNGC3 is about $50 if you buy it from bearing suppliers and so is the F-A-G. So, we have three choices at ~$50: 1. SKF 3208A-2RS1 TN9/C3 MT33 2. NSK 3208 B-2RSR-TNG-C3 3. F-A-G 3208-BD-2HRS-TVH-C3 However, all of them are good for up to 120C and not 140C like the original SKF (HT22). As to the max rpm, I couldn't find the info for the first two; the F-A-G spec says 8900 rpm which is very good (the bearing probably has non-contact seals). PS: Funny how the acronym F-A-G is censored if written without the dashes (because it sounds like the F***K)
I would imagine that since Ferrari themselves (and eurospares) sell NSK 3208 B-2RSR-TNG-C3 (no 2 in your list) as an "official" Ferrari part you'll be fine as long as the bearing matches the spec/temp/rpm etc
In the US, as a word, it's derogatory for homosexual. The fchat filter doesn't make exceptions, just finds the word string. sjd
Just been replacing the bearing in the flywheel today and have a question... Used an inner bearing removal tool (like a slide hammer) Image Unavailable, Please Login Area where the bearing came out - no sign of an o-ring Image Unavailable, Please Login Bearing being pressed back in (using the old bearing as a cushion) Image Unavailable, Please Login Quick video of the bearing being pressed back in... https://youtube.com/shorts/ImFvXywoM-4?feature=share But in the parts diagram it shows an o-ring (that I have bought) but it doesn't seem to have anywhere to go? Or should it be on the shaft that goes through the bearing and the diagram is just misleading???? Image Unavailable, Please Login This is a pic of the o-ring laid in the place the diagram indicates???