I did do some basic searching for some of my questions which I got answered. I'll just post up the ones I couldn't find an answer for.... 1.) CTEK Charger came with car (Model 1065). I got it plugged in and charging but the manual shows a photo of where to drape the cable out of the trunk as to not damage weather lining. I don't see any particular place you're supposed to run the cable. From what I searched on here I just put it as far as possible to the left and then closed the trunk to the first "click." Cable is still nice and loose and can be moved. If I go to the second "click" where it's fully closed the cable can't move. I feel like that's pinching it. Any other suggestions? 2.) I'm guessing this is the AC running in "auto" mode but sometimes when I have it set to cool around 72F or so it'll blow cold air fine but then randomly it'll blow hot air for a short duration. Is this the car trying to get the temperature warmer back to "72." I set it to max cold cranked all the way to the left to the coldest setting and I haven't noticed it doing that then at all. 3.) On top of the AC thing as I was playing with Homelink (don't get me started on that one that'll be question #4) I left the car in the accessory position (key turned to on) but left the motor off as to not waste gas. As I'm sitting in the car (this only happened once) the air vents randomly turned on, blew a small amount of air for maybe 2-4 seconds, and then it stopped. Italy electronics just being...Italy electronics? Seemed weird. 4.) So I got the basic homelink working for our community gate. No rolling code just a simple clicker My garage door is a rolling code. It doesn't even recognize it. I tried digging out an old homelink repeater (but I think remote has dead battery). Does this car require me using the old repeater for newer garage doors or what? 5.) I capped the stock exhaust valves. Sounds great. I don't know why OEM has the valves closed before 4,000 RPMs. Anyways, I'm likely upgrading the exhaust and going to go with Frequency Intelligent Exhaust. I'm told to get the full F1 sound you have to remove the cat. For anyone who has, any issues with the O2 sensors and a check engine light? Also, any issues with odor? Also, how loud? I've had full headered Corvette before so I'm aware of what loud can be. How would a modded screaming American V8 compare to open exhaust on F12? Thanks! Happy to be an owner of this car!
1. I would put the cable anywhere towards the left and fully close the hatch. Did it for years with no issues regarding weather stripping or wire. It is the recommended method in the OM as well IIRC. 2. AC could be weird for sure. Have to fiddle with it when driving. 3. Never used homelink. 4. I did a Capristo valve controller, left it open, sounded epic with otherwise stock exhaust. No codes. Amazing driving machine, don’t worry about the rest. You bought one of the World’s greatest V12 engines ever...ever...the rest is gravy.
Removing the cats completely will definitely give you a check engine light, and possibly some headaches with the law depending on where you live. 200 cel cats should improve the sound noticeably without throwing codes, but I don't have personal experience. I'm sure others who have will chime in.
I simply capped the exhaust on mine. Ferrari mechanic suggested not spending thousands on aftermarket exhausts as it wouldn't make that much difference unless you are listening to your own car with someone else driving it. Mine can be heard 2 miles away. Sound is great from inside. I always drive with the windows down unless cruising on the Freeway. Start up with it capped will wake the dead.
Agree with above on cable - just put mine to the left somewhere and close the trunk lid all the way. Never a problem for me. Noticed a long time ago that mine will rarely blow hot air too when AC on. Asked dealer and they said they didn’t know why. Only happens once every 6 months and is short lived so I don’t worry about it anymore. No homelink in mine - sorry. I wouldn’t remove cats - you’ll get CEL’s almost certainly. If you have any emissions testing requirement where you live it will fail and you won’t be able to register it either. Sounds so good when the valves open so just keep it at that is my advice, FWIW. Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
HomeLink - never easy, but mine is working. A separate Ferrari brochure came with mine, but the instructions at this website are the same and actually a bit clearer > https://homelink.com/ferrari Good luck & enjoy!
I live where there's zero emissions (Florida, USA). I was looking at one of the OTS tunes to get a few more HP and delete the CEL. I found a used Capristo X-Pipe and Ryft catless pipe online. Tempted to add that and keep factory muffler with a valve controller. I don't know if I buy the Ferrari mechanic on that one. I've had a lot of cars in the past and every single one I added an exhaust to without a doubt got much louder in cabin and obviously outside cabin. Thanks I'll read that tomorrow. I did have the little tiny pamphlet in the glovebox for Homelink control.
You don't need to close the hatchback lid. I leave the cable connected and lower the lid but do not latch. Light goes out in a couple minutes and stays out. That way there is zero stress on anything. As far as the rest - they are beloved Ferrari quirks. My exhaust is stock.
My recollection is a little fuzzy, but as I recall the programming steps in the brochure for rolling code Homelink devices are meant to occur after you successfully complete the general programming instructions first and then move on to the added steps for the rolling code programming. Maybe that's obvious to some, but I thought the way the brochure was formatted it could look like you begin the process with the rolling code instructions on the second page. But like I said it's been almost 2 years since I got mine working properly and in general, memory isn't one of my strong suits.
