Identifying stainless steel ball joints

Hi, is there anyway of telling whether ball joints are original or stainless replacements (magnet maybe)?
I'm just in the process of replacing the flamblocs and am amazed how good the ball joints are. Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Flanblocks, only Ferrari calls them flamblocks. A magnet can usually tell the difference between stainless and carbon steel, but it depends on the type of stainless.

 

Where is the boot? Let's see the condition of that (actually, top & bottom), because they'll determine the likely remaining lifespan of the ball joint.

 

Interesting, why?

Also, a good question is are the HE ball joints magnetic, not all stainless is magnetic.

Thanks.


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If they look good and here is no play and movement is smooth, why change them. No need to fix what is not broken.

 

Here’s a picture of the upper hill ball joint on the left and oem upper ball joint on the right. There are some differences as you can see in the side by side comparison.

from your picture it looks like you have the oem ball joint.

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All the Stainless i have seen is not magnetic ,unless you have a special called duplex but highly special type

 

I don't intend changing them, I'm just surprised at their condition give everything you read about ball joints.

 

Some of the boots out there in the marketplace don't fit securely and the rubber seems to tear/perish more quickly. Once the boot is compromised, *any* ball joint will begin it's slow descent into death --- but the Hill Engineering ones have a chrome plating that is likely to survive longer when exposed to the elements. The pitting you see on the photo above is how they begin to fail. Once road grime and grit is introduced into any of these ball joints, it is just a fact of nature that it'll grind away the ball slowly but surely (or in some cases, fast and furiously!)

 

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I agree, historically most SS like surgical instruments, sheet metal, and fasteners etc. are non magnetic.

Magnetic SS seems to have become more ubiquitous. I also have lots of SS pots and pans for my induction range which are magnetic. Clearly there are reasons for selecting magnetic SS.

I see no reason why Hill would use magnetic SS for a ball joint especially if it’s more expensive and there is no utility

I was just asking to be sure before folks use it as a simple test of which ball joints they have installed.
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Ok I see your point, using the condition of the boot as an indicator to the exposure risk of the part. Makes sense.


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Personally, I'm waiting for the neodymium version of ball joints.

Imagine at local cars and coffee, if snot nose punks with a fancy belt buckle or jewelry get too close to the car, they'll be instantly pegged onto the control arm.

 

One of my hill engineering front upper ball joints is just starting to show its first sign of wear after 9000 miles of use, wearing on the passenger side as appears that side hits the gutter drain grids. Mind you the oem ones only did 3000 and the chrome was lifted off.