360 convertible top in SLOOOOOOOW Motion

This is something new over the last couple of months. The top is slow to begin it's cycle then moves about halfway through the cycle and crawls to almost a dead stop. If I keep holding the switch it will slowly finish most of the time. I only try this with the engine running. Hydraulic fluid is topped off, pump motor was just replaced. Has anyone else run into this or does anyone have suggestions? Thanks in advance...

 

The system is pretty simple so it can only be a couple of things. I would guess by your description that there's an internal leak. It could be the pump itself and replacing the motor was just an exercise in wallet calisthenics.

 

Was the system been bled properly after the pump change?

 

As far as I know, the hydraulics on the capote are self-bleeding. From what I've seen, somehow, the fluid can circulate back to the reservoir. It could be a pinhole at the end of stroke, or a valve? I have no empirical evidence to support it other than replacing rams and just running the top up and down once to get everything working right.

 

Thanks, John. Perhaps I was thinking of the F355

 

If the motor was just replaced I wonder if there are air bubbles in the lines.
When I flushed my fluids 2 years ago mine operated very slowly for about 3 cycles and then went normal

 

Either air in the line, cycle the top more or the fluid has become thick or is the incorrect fluid used. The hydraulic fluid is a very light and will evaporate over time becoming more and more thick causing slow operation even when it is topped up over the years. This is especially true in the 355 where the old fluid is trapped at the end of the system. Last thought is the vent screw is open for the emergency closing option?

 

You have a leak. Losing hydraulic pressure. Main ram or extention ram is the most likely culprit. Just do them all. Once one goes..they all go. 7 rams total.

Call Top Hydraulics..they will set you up.

 

Thanks folks, all good info. Just to note, the pump and motor came as a unit so both were replaced. I have not noticed any fluid leaks on the floor and the fluid level seems stable. I did not bleed the system after replacing the pump and motor. I was thinking that I would need to do so but couldn't locate any info on the process. I used my "airlift' device to pull a vacuum and then left fluid get sucked into the tank. By the way, the F1 system is working fine. Seven rams?! Wow, I think I will be astounded at the price, but...whatever it takes I guess. As of today, the system folds the top in half but never opens the capote. Looks like it is becoming a hard failure.

 

The system will self bleed. Just activate to roof a few times. But be very sympathetic to pump run time..no longer then 20 seconds with a 20 second cool down between activations. With new fluid and no leaks..she will go.

 

another couple of questions...What do you all use for hydraulic fluid and how often should the F1 pump activate? Mine runs for 5-10 seconds just about every 20 seconds, even at idle. Doesn't quite make sense to me, perhaps there is a pressure leak somewhere.

 

F1 pump running with those timings is very bad .. refrain from using car until you duag and fix issue

I can assist if you want

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I'd very much appreciate any help you could offer.

 

Sent PM with number ..call me

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Problem easily solved! I stupidly thought there was a single hydraulic system on the car. When I said the pump motor was replaced and fluid was topped off, I was referring to the F1 system. Duh! After searching Fchat further I realized there is a separate hydraulic pump for the top. Makes sense. I found the fluid was at the marker until the top was cycled, then it went dry and everything stopped. I topped it off and all is fine now. Obviously I have a slow leak somewhere and my efforts now are to find it. Thanks for the comments and advice!