Turning over a 308 Engine

1. Pulley rotation is clockwise.
2. The crank pulley is always the one you're rotating.
3. I believe the bolt needs a 36mm socket (going by memory here). You'll need a socket and long ratchet/bar - you can't do it with a wrench.

 

More than likely an ignition issue, but the front and rear bank have separate timing belts, so it would be possible it has a broken belt on one bank. Just something to consider if this is an exercise as part of a PPI because the ramifications are so much greater.

 

Passenger side, the belts are kinda visible. If it's a 308QV with the backing shields on the covers then no, you can't see the belts. Std 308 2V you can get a peak at them, best to use an inspection mirror. It's a tight squeeze top side but doable.

You can certainly turn the engine by hand with broken belts and even with timing so far out that valves kiss pistons, but you'll feel the kiss point as enough resistance to stop before bending anything.

Running on 4 is most always an ignition issue.

 

36 mm socket is the correct one. I'm assuming you're going to remove spark plugs to make it easy to rotate.

 

I suggest you get a PPI from a reputable mechanic.

Get the facts for $250 or so

 

Since you do your own engine work, you know that with an interference engine, if the cam belt/chain breaks, not only are some of the valves toast, there is a good chance some pistons are as well. If so, it's a very pricy repair, though if you are doing it yourself, you are only paying for very pricy parts.

Assuming the dealer will allow it, if it was me, I'd do my own compression check before making any further decision re PPI/other inspection.

 

If they want allow an inspection. Run. Better to pay for more $ for a nice example than than to try to restore a poor one.

 

First off, I am not a professional and have very little experience buying 308s. I have only bought one. As a hobbyist mechanic however, I have now looked at pretty much every nut and bolt on my car.

A concern is that some cars have been modified in subtle but significant ways and restoring them to stock can be expensive (e.g. wheels, seats, ignition). Having a knowledgeable expert identify what parts are correct and incorrect on an unknown exotic car is a big part of why a PPI is so important.

The Ferrari parts that are expensive are the Ferrari-specific stuff. Wear parts – fuel injectors, spark plugs, etc. – are not silly-priced. Even the “expensive” services don’t use expensive parts. Timing belts are $37 each; the suspension bushing kit is a few hundred. However, both the belt service and suspension renovation are hugely labor intensive so the cost gap between DIY and professional service are huge. The engine has a trove of gaskets, seals, hoses and bearings that can be tired and can be expensive to replace only because of the labor cost to replace them.

... and the Professional Technicians say they witness a lot of problems caused by hack home mechanics.

 

So we agree?

 

Everything can be fixed and the big consideration is what the car costs. If you are handy with tools and the price is right then there could be an opportunity for you here.

It is true that the most expensive example will be the cheapest in the long rung but at the same time when you are a DIY'er you can do well for yourself, learn a lot, and have fun along the way. Parts are not horribly expensive what is VERY expensive is when you have to rely on someone else to do all the work for you.

 

You can get a feel for engine part prices on the superformance.co.uk website. Rebuild cost depends on whether you just want to get it running again or get it back to almost like new. Pistons, liners, gasket set, valves and guides are most expensive items assuming heads, cams, rods, crank, block are all serviceable. Lots of “while you are in there” items that will add another 50% to your budget.


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Walk away.

 

If that's the car at Beverly Hill Car Club, yes. walk away.

 

Compare to this https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/dealer/ferrari/308gt4/2542690.html

 

Seems to me like 50K for something you don't know pretty much what's wrong with is way to much. I think your 20K number is more realistic. If you can't at least use a bore scope to access the damage (if any) and run it (runs on 4 cyl) to check the trans and rear end I would walk away in a heartbeat. Last year I bent the exhaust valves in my 308, my fault, and ended up replacing all eight in the REAR head which I managed to get off with no trouble. If on the other hand its the front head or the head is corroded on (read threads about this) it will be a real pita. As far as cost goes most parts are available from superformance at a reasonable, albeit more than popular muscle cars. The rub comes when you get into things like sleeves or major castings as they can get expensive in a hurry. Recent article in Hagerty insurance pub details one of their guys buying a GT4 and sending the engine to a shop for what he thought was a minor problem. 20K later he got it back and even at that all the castings were ok. If you've never worked on a 3x8 I hope you have the right attitude. It's not that they are particularly difficult to work on just time consuming and more than a little frustrating at times. I spent the better part of the day yesterday changing a CV joint boot. So I spent most of the day replacing a $9 part. You sound like me as I'm in the school that says if I can't fix it myself it won't get fixed and that includes paint.

Good luck
Barry

 

Next time, lead with that info.