Hello everyone, I'm in the market for a '80 Ferrari 308 (EU model with carbs). I've looked at a bunch of cars throughout the past year and narrowed it down to one. I looked at the car in spring and left the owner with a list of things to complete before purchase. The car is finished now and we scheduled a date for payment/pickup. One main item, which is completed since then, is an engine-out service. Additional things are minor bits&bobs (tires, suspensions bushings...). I asked for the compression values (psi) after the service: #1: 135 #2: 130 #3: 135 #4: 130 #5: 127 #6: 135 #7: 135 #8: 132 (attached picture as reference/example) I have built/refurbished Alfa, Ford and Porsche engines, but this is my first Ferrari. So...differences on compression is very reasonable. However, compression seems oddly low. I don't quite know what to make of that. Any thoughts? An old link to an auction of the car is still available with lots of pictures: https://www.classiccar-auctions.com/en/ferrari-308-gts-1980/ Beware: In the description of the car it mentions, that the car with resprayed from silver to red - that is apparently false. The rest seems to be true. Other links regarding history/reference: https://www.ferrariregistry.nl/ferrari/home/stradali-nuovi/308/gts/28757 https://www.flickr.com/photos/81821776@N06/49768187046/in/photostream/ Pros: - Rather "honest" car - there seems to be no cover-ups or f**kery for the sale - Extensive maintenance done (large service, bushings, electrics...) - Some history and independent sources that can confirm the state of the car - Runs very well, no clunking, freshly tuned - I do have a rather positive gut feeling Cons: - Restauration done and I haven't seen before/after pictures [I'll ask if there are analog copies at pickup] - Interior is a bit worn down (mainly switches, targa roof vinyl...) - nothing too bad though - Interior changed from tan to black (I don't mind, but not original) - Blaupunkt aftermarket speaker behind the seats - Aircon removed in the 80s - No complete history (but back 20 years), no tool-kits In conclusion, I'd simply like an opinion of some people more familiar with the 308. Please go ahead and say what you think. I may just as well have missed s.th. so obvious, I should crawl back into my cave... Best regards and happy for any input! Sire Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
What elevation was the car at when the compression test was performed? A car at 5,000 ft above sea level will have compression nearly 16% lower than a car at sea level. When performing engine cylinder compression tests, your readings will get lower the higher in altitude you go. Here is a chart to show the correction factor. Altitude Factor 1000' .9711 2000' .9428 3000' .9151 4000' .8881 5000' .8617 6000' .8359 7000' .8106 8000' .7860 My 308 QV gets compression readings of ~155-160, at 4,000 ft above sea level - that's equivalent to 169-180 psi at sea level. Gordon
Yea compression tests can vary with many factors. They are more of a "canary in the coal mine" thing where you're looking for an anomaly when one cylinder is way different from the rest and if so you go to a leak down compression test to find out why. If you've rebuilt Alfa motors you're going to find this familiar territory. My guess is you're making this purchase to enjoy the car and not so much as an "investment" so wouldn't worry so much about the cosmetics. You're getting older, let the car get older with you, that's my new philosophy.
Compression is also a function of the process the mechanic used (or should have used). For example, was it a cold engine with throttle plates closed, or warm engine with full open carb throttle plates (WOT)? I thought it's interesting that this car (c/n 28757) is a mid-1979 build, but it's first in-service date is 30 June 1980 (if I got that right?). You may want to look under the front bonnet on the right hand side, there may be an additional VIN Plate with "Imported by Auto Becker" the German Importer of Ferrari in that timeframe.
The 30-06 is a date that is used more often. I think they (Dutch RDW) use it when they do not know the exact date.
FWIW re compression checks: We often saw as much as 30 PSI difference between checking with closed throttle vs WOT. Also, the number of "compression pulses" per each cylinder check has to be the same.
Hi, yeah you are correct: I will purchase the car to drive and enjoy and I agree, a car that is being driven is allowed to age accordingly. Regarding the compression test, I'm not really worried. I think (judging from pictures) the throttle was closed and engine definitely cold for the test. Also the gauge might just read "a little on the low side of thing". Thank you all for the answers and I will let you know, if anything pops up in the future.
If that black interior ever starts getting on your nerves, happy to swap you for my gently used tan interior.... Dave
That's not a good sample, in my opinion: unless you own a mechanic shop and so will do the work by yourself. It requires at least an head service (10 k) as the compression test is not good at all and very likely it needs many other - and expensive - works. The best deal is always the best car available and that isn't even close to be. I apologize if I am too rude, but you asked for an opinion and that's mine. Yes, that car can be fixed and become an excellent car indeed, but it won't be cheap at all. Ciao
Ouch! I don't know why he's taken the engine out, but an excellent chance to snoop up the exhaust ports and see if there's any leaking out the valve guides.
Hi, the main reason why he is taking the engine out is, because I told him to. There were slight (10 maybe) drops of oil underneath the car after stopping and turning it off. Therefore: Fix all the leaks, replace cam seals, do clearances... The car was perfectly drivable beforehand (same owner since 40 years). As I said before: Compression readings are oddly low, but they do not vary too much. Not between individual cylinders or front and rear head. I find it to be improbable, that there is "the same leakage" on all cylinders.
No, I think the evenness between cylinders is a good thing. I pulled my engine out for oil leaks, and when I looked up the exhaust ports, this is what I found... Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hi, just to let the story end: After a spirited test drive, I discovered oil sludge in the cooling overflow tank. so…seems like I’m still in the market for a 308. Best regards
So if I followed this correctly............you made a deal with the owner to purchase after he had an engine out service done. The work was done, and a possible blown head gasket or two was not discovered at that time or after your initial test drive. After the engine out service a problem is found. What a mess!!!!!
The fact that there was oil in the coolant wasn’t even what made me walk away. Blown head gaskets can be fixed and even cracks in the cylinder head aren’t a death sentence. It was the mechanics reaction who did the work: He tried to convince me, that this just can’t be and would just be remnants from before - it can be and it wasn’t Image Unavailable, Please Login
