Flanbocs. Do they really go bad that often?

I replaced my flamblocs with delrin at 9k miles on my Scud. At 9k miles there were visible cracks on the rubber of the flamblocs. I did the work at the same as I did my ball joints and tie rods from HE.

 

I also did flambloc (delrin) when I replaced my ball joints at 17k miles. Definitely made a difference.

 

Go to the 430 lower arms . Which are forged not cast. These have the 430 challenge bushings and all new ball joints from Hill. My next project
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Assuming they are the same as the coupe, they can become a bit tight but you can take them apart and clean and lubricate the pins

 

I don't care what anyone says you can't go past good quality OEM ball joints. Small amount of sand or grit under the seal mix wee bit of water and you have a perfect recipe. How can you get any better than that chrome plate steel bj's onya!! Ferrari.


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Very odd they dont use stainless in the first place

 

Maybe they were concerned with galvanic corrosion?

 

430 challenge bushings are delrin.

 

How ? The hill engineering ones work fine

 

That might have been their concern, but the reality is it's not an issue.

 

I'm sure the cost for s/steel had nothing to do with them not using stainless.
FORZA Ferrari

 

By the time you make it in mild steel, then chrome plate it, it probably costs more. Stainless is not much dearer anyway.

 

No matter how much you polish it stainless will never be as smooth as chrome plating.
Also the chrome plating used on spherical bearings is industrial, not decorative, and is extremely hard wearing.
The combination of the two gives an unequaled smooth operation for the bearing, which is why for most applications it is the preferred choice.

Yes stainless is corrosion resistant, and in some applications is preferable due to extreme operating conditions, but it does not mean they last significantly longer.
There are some on here that have had the stainless bearings and had a similar or shorter service life.

Bottom line, there is no escaping the fact that these things have a finite service life - mine lasted 22,000 miles, and in fact the rears had only just started to go - and given the choice I'll stick with the genuine factory version.........which I did.

You are of course free to choose, but do not be sucked into the illusion that the stainless ones are fit and forget, because they aren't !

 

Mine have been in 9000 miles so far, just a slight bit of wear on the passenger front upper- appears that one takes most abuse according to Ferrari tech as that wheel hits the road drain grids. Originals were peeling the chrome at 3000. You can get the plastic tube from an aerosol. past the rubber seal and squirt in chain lub to help lubricate them

 

Yes, I keep looking at my Flanblocs and ball joints on my '08 599 but so far with 46K they all look fine. I would think if you upgrade to Hill ball joints it's a one time fix.

 

What do you see when they are worn out...my ball joints move freely and no play... flanblocs also... Can you tell when they are on the way out visually?
Thanks

 

You would hear some clicking when you drive and go over a bump, that could be a ball joint. The Flanblocs, look closely and look for drying and cracks in the rubber around the edges where you can see the black rubber. You can also try and put your fingernail into the rubber lightly, if it gives you're OK. If it's hard, replace.

 

Thanks; I have no noises; but the flanblocs do have some very small cracks around the edges.... probably never replaced (mine is a 2005, 19k miles ) They are not too hard though. Should I look to replace ?

The shock absorber bushing was definitely worn as it looked twisted/compressed and I changed that on both sides...
Sway bar bushings tend to harden up and make a horrible clank noise... I renewed those too.

 

Here's how mine look:


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One more question.... looking at parts diagrams, it seems that the rear and front flanblocs are the same, right ? Just upper and lower are different...

Thanks

 

Yes that is correct

 

The rubber might show cracks but see if any play when you put a pinch bar in to find lift. The usual problem is the pin getting tight in the sleeve , this being the arm pivot they get stiff. You can strip them to free them up. Just need a new circlip when you re assemble