Welp, the 3 year saga of my 308 has come to a close... | FerrariChat

Welp, the 3 year saga of my 308 has come to a close...

Discussion in '308/328' started by rjd2, Dec 12, 2022.

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  1. rjd2

    rjd2 Karting

    Jul 28, 2016
    125
    After what seems like an eternity, I picked up my 1978 308 GTS from Evans Auto this morning. I really can't believe the saga is (essentially) over. I have probably told this story several times, but I will briefly recount it here in the interest of potentially helping any future owners. IF YOU ARE LOOKING TO SERVICE YOUR CAR IN CENTRAL OHIO DM ME FIRST!!!!!! I may change my mind and name the guilty party in the future, but for now, I am going to hold back. Here's the story:

    In 2019, I purchased said car from a NJ owner and had it shipped to Ohio. I knew it needed a belt service, so I shopped around and went with a local shop. When I visited the shop I went with, they had a GT3, a Testarossa, and another 308 there. Several people were around, helpful, friendly. I felt confident. Checked in every month, progress was happening, stopped by, things looked good. Around the 6-8 month mark, communication disappeared. Find landlord: "oh, you're looking for ___? let me know when you find him, he moved out and owes me 2 months back rent". Contact sherriffs, they find him-he admits to having car so they can't consider it stolen goods. Civil matter. Insurance won't take claim. Dude ghosts me for another month. I finally get the chassis back, sans engine. car has obviously sat outside for an extended period, due to smell in cabin. still need engine. ghosts me again another month. get a random sunday morning text "you can come get your engine", I rally troops and go out and get back engine. in pieces. and missing ****. call other shops. not many want to pick up _____ 's pieces. Evans Auto took the job on, possibly cause (I would like to think) I have a good history with them. that was some time in the winter of 2020, I believe. and as of today, the car is back with me. they did a full rebuild on trans, engine block, heads, carbs, electrical work, etc etc. while they had the motor, I refurbished the interior, rebuilt the suspension, steering rack and brakes, and put in new seals. All in all, Evans Auto really saved my ass on this project, kudos to the good folks there.

    I want to thank this great community for the help-a few of you contributed in a most kind and generous fashion, and I appreciate that! Today was literally the second time I have driven the car, so I have a good amount of learning to do.

    A couple minor questions:
    1-the rear hatch won't detach on the PS by itself, its a two man job. assuming I need to tighten the cable there. any tips?

    2-I need a new PS window switch. if anyone has one for sale, that'd be great.

    3-my parking brake warning light won't go out when its disengaged. easiest solution? I'm not opposed to disabling the light. Thanks!

    3-
     
    technom3 likes this.
  2. dave80gtsi

    dave80gtsi Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Nov 3, 2003
    1,920
    Ohio
    Full Name:
    Dave Meredith
    Nice to hear that you've come out on the other side, whole and intact!

    While George has never done any work for me personally, I've heard good things about him and his shop. So, with Evans out of the loop, this only leaves a potential pair of Westerville / New Albany firms who could have done you wrong. Anxious to know the details once you feel free to share them - guessing that you are withholding the naming of names due to ongoing legal suits and related issues?

    As far as your questions:

    1). No real hints to offer on this one, other than to remove your taillights on the 'stuck' side before going very far on this one so to have easy latch access in case you shut the lid and then can't release via the door jam cable pull.

    2). Are you certain that the old one is indeed broken beyond repair? These are pretty simple switches, and often a spray of electrical contact cleaner is all that you'll need to fix it.

    3). As before, the location of the switch makes it prone to dirt infiltration. Try contact cleaner first before going further.

    Congrats on your success!

    DM / Powell area
     
    Rosey likes this.
  3. ragtop1

    ragtop1 F1 Veteran
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    Nov 11, 2006
    5,242
    Ontario
    Full Name:
    Larry Warren
  4. NashGTS

    NashGTS Rookie
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    Aug 4, 2019
    48
    Nashville TN
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    Bryan phillips
  5. rjd2

    rjd2 Karting

    Jul 28, 2016
    125
    Thanks for the help folks! I'll pull the non working switch. I also am finding the passenger window doesnt go all the way up. I can try gently pulling it upwards while running the motor(may need a new motor?).

    Few more user-related questions(I am just now getting familiar with the driveability of the car):

    1-the position of the side mirrors makes them extremely hard to see use. do you find them functional? sight lines in the car arent bad, so it's not a huge deal. i literally can't see anything of use in them.

    2-oil pressure gauge takes a good 20-30 seconds to show pressure. this normal? also, my oil temp seems to run right at the middle of the gauge; can I assume that it isnt in fact 210, but just a gauge offset of sorts? 210 would seem high, but a gauge wanting to have its 12 oclock or 6 oclock at "proper operation" would make sense.

    3-comfort. I'm 5'8", 160lbs, and can get in and out of the car fairly well. it's certainly it's own kind of feel, though. I'm finding the backrests to be a bit hard for my tastes(factory seats are reconditioned, new foam and leather). are you folks using any padding, etc on the seats, or do you acclimate over time to the feel?
     
  6. greyboxer

    greyboxer F1 World Champ

    Dec 8, 2004
    12,667
    South East
    Full Name:
    Jimmie
    You seem like a fairly typical 308 size so its possible that either your position could be improved and/or the new foam & leather need to settle down a bit
     
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  7. ragtop1

    ragtop1 F1 Veteran
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    Nov 11, 2006
    5,242
    Ontario
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    Larry Warren
    Are you sure? that switch is for a QV - I could be mistaken, but I think the pin setup is different from your carb car. The QV window switches are on the centre console, requiring just a left and right switch. This could be your problem, as your car has 3 switches with totally different wiring/pin configurations. The arrows engraved on the switch are not the correct for a carb 308. See the image I sent you in post #3
     
  8. Glassman

    Glassman F1 World Champ
    Rossa Subscribed

    These guy's had your car for 6 - 8 months for a belt service???????? And pulled the engine? I must have missed a lot in a previous thread.
     
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  9. ragtop1

    ragtop1 F1 Veteran
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    Nov 11, 2006
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    Larry Warren
    #9 ragtop1, Dec 16, 2022
    Last edited: Dec 16, 2022
    # 1 - The Vitaloni California mirrors on your 308 are difficult to use. Many owners have swapped them out for the flag style mirror. I put the bigger flag mirrors on my ’78 and ran them for many years. But the original Californias are back on because someone shamed into putting the correct style on at a cars & coffee meet. Lol


    #2 – My oil pressure gauge takes about 5 seconds to respond.
    Your oil temperature is correct. (that's where mine runs (+ or - a few degrees)


    #3 – what Greyboxer said
     
  10. AZDoug

    AZDoug Formula 3

    Jun 17, 2009
    1,606
    Along the Verde , AZ
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    Doug
    Re oil pressure gauge response time:

    Do you have the Baldwin (I believe it is B253, from memory, please verify), or a Fram filter?

    Only the Baldwin filter has the stand pipe to keep the oil in the filter. The Fram filter does not.

    I do not know if there is an additional check valve internally in the oil filter mount to keep oil from running back down from that side.

    Doug
     
  11. rjd2

    rjd2 Karting

    Jul 28, 2016
    125
    I have a UFI oil filter in the car now. As long as it charges ok, i guess its fine, its just disconcerting a bit to watch an engine run for 30 seconds or so with no pressure.
     
  12. ClydeM

    ClydeM F1 World Champ
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    Nov 4, 2003
    11,910
    Wayne, NJ
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    Clyde E. McMurdy
    Mine recently has developed a nasty habit of the needle sticking. Right after start-up with the guage reading zero, I tap the glass and it jumps to where it should be.
     
  13. George Vosburgh

    George Vosburgh F1 Rookie
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    I just started a conversation with you. Please check messages.
     
  14. Dockboy

    Dockboy Formula Junior
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    May 11, 2013
    607
    Maryland
    ^THIS^
     
  15. versamil

    versamil Formula 3
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    Apr 28, 2013
    1,226
    Gaston, Oregon
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    Brian Healy
    I'm a little late to the party here, but i don't think anyone gave you a good answer on oil filters and the window. The oil filter in your car SHOULD have a tube right in the middle of it. I know your filter is on the engine, but any other filter you have, if you look in the hole, you shouldn't see any filter material- JUST a shiny tube that extends almost to the top of your filter. This tube serves two purposes- first it doesn't allow your oil to simply drain back into the engine when the engine is off. Since the filter is VERTICAL, doesn't this make sense? Second since there is a tube in the filter you can change the filter without dumping almost a quart of oil over the engine. IF you want to be proactive, remove the filter and check. Very little oil will leak out if you have the right filter- it will make a mess if it's wrong. If you make a HUGE mess, it's worth it to change the filter so your engine doesn't have to put a quart of oil into the filter before building pressure. DON'T wait until your next oil change to check.

    Windows going up slowly or not at all is the fifty year old grease in the window motor gearbox turning into concrete. Somewhat challenging to fix because of the rube goldburg cables that MUST be oriented correctly. Also the cable wraps around a small grooved pulley, and the cable naturally wants to unwind. There's a tool to keep the cable tight on the pulley. Long ago before I found the actual tool, I made something that worked, by slotting an oil seal, that was the right diameter. Necessity is the Mother of all inventions.
     
  16. GordonC

    GordonC F1 Rookie
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    Aug 28, 2005
    4,163
    Calgary, AB, Canada
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    Gordon
    That time to show oil pressure is not necessarily normal - my QV is perhaps 5 seconds. Could be a sticky gauge, but... what oil are you using? For viscosity, it should be a 0W or 5W (ie 0W40 or 5W40). You want as thin a cold oil as possible, it's still several times thicker than when it's hot - 10W to 20W are too thick when at ambient temperatures for a cold start. You want the oil to be able to pump and circulate as quickly as possible to get the pressure and protection.

    If the shop put in a 20W50 oil, get that changed out ASAP - something like the Pennzoil Ultra Euro 5W40 is a very good choice.

    Agreed that Fram filters dropped the stand pipe they used to have in the 60s and 70s, and shouldn't be used on 308 engines. The UFI filter also has the required/desired stand pipe, and is an equally good alternative to the B253 Baldwin filter.

    Regards,
    Gordon
     

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