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Deployant buckles

Discussion in 'Fine Watches, Jewelry, & Clothes' started by Jack-the-lad, Dec 5, 2022.

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  1. Jack-the-lad

    Jack-the-lad Seven Time F1 World Champ
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    #1 Jack-the-lad, Dec 5, 2022
    I like deployant buckles. My Reverso Shadow came with one from new. It’s comfortable on the wrist and I enjoy the extra bit of security it can provide.

    I’d like to fit deployant buckles to a couple of other watches that have tang buckles, but I prefer not to change straps unless absolutely necessary. Is there a source for deployant buckles that can be retrofitted, or even complete strap/buckle assemblies? I’ve found a few sources on line but mostly European suppliers, although I have no problem with that other than logistics. Also, some of the the descriptions on the web sites are a bit vague as to fitment.

    Has anyone here had experience with retrofitting a deployant buckle to a strap that originally had a tang, or have sources for them? Many thanks.
     
  2. dsd

    dsd F1 Rookie
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    #2 dsd, Dec 8, 2022
    Most strap manufacturers sell them (Hirsch, Etc…). They are usually available as butterfly or fold over. Generic ones are less than $50. Most manufactures sell them too and can range from $250 to $7000.

    Very easy to retrofit and I have many of them.

    As to where to buy, Amazon sells them and most strap sites.
     
  3. Jack-the-lad

    Jack-the-lad Seven Time F1 World Champ
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    #3 Jack-the-lad, Dec 27, 2022
    After a lot of searching I think I might have finally found a compatible deployant buckle. This is for Grand Seiko leather strap, so I think that would be fine with my old 6105-8000. It’s from a small Japanese dealer, closed until 1/9/23 for new year break, so a couple more weeks of waiting….….

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  4. Mule

    Mule F1 Rookie
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    #4 Mule, Dec 28, 2022
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  5. Jack-the-lad

    Jack-the-lad Seven Time F1 World Champ
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    #5 Jack-the-lad, Dec 29, 2022
    Thanks. What’s your opinion of the quality and fit? They’re a lot less expensive than some others so I’m just wondering about materials and construction.
     
  6. Mule

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    #6 Mule, Dec 29, 2022
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2022
    Mid range. Fit is fine, quality is good stainless steel. More Tissot quality than Rolex. I have an Omega Seamaster on a Breitling blue strap with one of these buckles, and it works fine. A little thinner than the Omega and TAG factory buckle, and a little less finely crafted. Not high end, but they work.

    https://www.strapcode.com/collections/deployant-buckle

    Lots on eBay, too.
     
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  7. Jack-the-lad

    Jack-the-lad Seven Time F1 World Champ
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    #7 Jack-the-lad, Feb 1, 2023
    After weeks of looking around I ended up with two buckles: one signed Seiko and one signed Jaeger-LeCoultre. I’ll take them to the shop next week to see if either will fit.

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  8. johnireland

    johnireland F1 Veteran
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    #8 johnireland, Feb 2, 2023
    I have three JLC that all came to me with deployant clasps. I personally do not like them. The only one I can live with is the older style single fold clasp that is on my Reverso. The two ultra thins have the butterfly clasps. For me, they interfere with the softness of the leather, they are much easier for a thief to pop off your wrist in a robbery. Looking at them they are a collection of pieces and hinges that are sooner or later going to wear and fail and need repair. I already have a steel tang buckle for one, just waiting for a new strap in the short size. And I have on order, and 18k JLC buckle for my favorite watch. The gold clasps go for $4000 new and $2500 on the used market. But the fact is that they are popular so I'll keep mine in case I ever decide to sell the watch. Once these two watches are on proper tang buckles, I will order another one from JLC for the Reverso.
     
  9. Jack-the-lad

    Jack-the-lad Seven Time F1 World Champ
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    #9 Jack-the-lad, Feb 2, 2023
    In my opinion the deployant is kind of an elegant solution. I’ve found that the strap lasts longer with a deployant because the point near where the tang enters the strap is stressed when putting on and taking off of the watch, wears, and over time will break.

    Your point about security is well taken, though. A thug tried to take an IWC 3701 off of me but he got some resistance and ran, but he still had his hand on the strap. It broke, he had part of the strap, but I had…and still have…the watch. Unfortunately this watch has an integrated strap which IWC no longer makes and apparently is not available in the aftermarket.
     
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  10. Jack-the-lad

    Jack-the-lad Seven Time F1 World Champ
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    #10 Jack-the-lad, Feb 2, 2023
    Have you seen the limited release JLCs that are coming out?
     
  11. johnireland

    johnireland F1 Veteran
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    #11 johnireland, Feb 3, 2023
    No...but it feels like over engineering to me. Clasps on bracelets are logical. And my favorite of all those is the classic Rolex Jubilee. The JLC 18k tang is only $800 vs $4000 for the clasp. I'd rather put the additional $3200 into more watch. A new strap now and then isn't a big inconvenience...it often gives the watch a whole new personality.
     
  12. Jack-the-lad

    Jack-the-lad Seven Time F1 World Champ
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    #12 Jack-the-lad, Feb 3, 2023
    Take a look at the JLC web site or Hodinkee. JLC is selling some watches out if its vintage inventory. Do you have a Memovox? That’s my next JLC target,

    I guess we’ll just disagree on the deployants, but that makes the world go ‘round.:) I’m looking forward to one of the two I found getting installed on my Seiko 6105-8000 strap, even though it isn’t an original fitment for that watch. After over 50 years of ownership it’s earned an upgrade!
     
  13. LightGuy

    LightGuy Four Time F1 World Champ
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    #13 LightGuy, Apr 19, 2023
    I'm looking at a like new Blancpain Fifty Fathoms with a deployment clasp.
    I'm pretty hard on watches especially the buckle / clasp whatever so a replacement deployment would be in order.
    Higher the quality the better.
     
  14. Jack-the-lad

    Jack-the-lad Seven Time F1 World Champ
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    #14 Jack-the-lad, Apr 19, 2023
  15. Mule

    Mule F1 Rookie
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    #15 Mule, Apr 19, 2023
    Ha! I re-read my posts and never used the wrong word....but I didn't know it wasn't "deployMent". It is pretty common use, though.
     
  16. Jack-the-lad

    Jack-the-lad Seven Time F1 World Champ
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    #16 Jack-the-lad, Apr 19, 2023
    You’re right, it’s a common misuse. Incredibly, some web sites specializing in them use the incorrect word. I’m not sure how it got started. I didn’t know much about it until i started seriously looking for one.
     
  17. Mule

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    #17 Mule, Apr 19, 2023
    I guess you could argue the English translation is deployment. But the big companies use "folding buckle", fold over buckle" and "Oysterlock" instead of deployment or deployant.
     
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