Shifter Shaft Seal revisited

Just did mine a few weeks back. Really easy job. I used Verell's X rings. And detent kit. Shifts better than ever Even my 11 yr old agrees. And zero pan leaks

 

if you need info maybe I can help since I did mine recently, but my memory is not great.

 

What is the "detent kit"? Is that new ball and springs in the oil pan?

 

its a fake piece of trans pan that will hold the springs and ball bearings in place . so you can keep the normal tension on the gear shafts

 

And clean out the dinosaur bones and Big Mac leftovers outta the shifter while you are at it.

 

And all this time I thought the scent was from the leather!

 

I know... 16 years later. But I want to change my shift shaft seals and I am asking myself what the correct orientation of the cup seals is. Should the open ends of the cups face each other... So they seal the oil pan?

 

The front seal should have the flat side facing the front of the car (cup on the inside of the oil sump). The rear seal can be done either way.

 

Why not use the 'X' shaped seals from Unobtainium? Makes no difference how they go in and they have two sealing surfaces per seal.

 

Because the OEM seals work quite well. The cup type of seal gives a wide sealing surface.

 

Thanks, guys! Yes I would rather stay with the OEM-style. It worked fine as far as I can see... I am just changing ist because "while I am in there".
I think I pulled the seals out the way that both cups face the rear of the car... Or both flat surfaces face the front of the car.

 

Replace the shift blocks with Verrell's improved part while you're at it.

 

i dont remember what shift blocks are? bushings?

 

Yes. You need 2.
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Well... That is another part. Yes, I will replace these, but no, I will stick with OEM-Type. The current ones lasted 36 years, so... Why mess with it. I already have the parts in the shelf.

But again - Shift shaft seals: Orientation of the seal between engine and gearbox is not important?

 

fyi, I had asked about this on FChat when I did my seals a few years ago, and the answer was the rear one's orientation does not matter. That was confirmed by one of the best expert mechanics on FChat and is in one of my old threads about the seal replacement.

 

Okay then I did not search carefully enough. Thanks again for the confirmation!

 

Ok but you will need to replace them again in 36 years

 

Damn, you're right. I didn't think of this. :-D
I might have to sell the car in 35 years then.

 

There are two slient block bushings, one near the shifter and the other at the end of the shift shaft that goes into the engine. The rear one would have more environmental and heat deterioration, the inside one will probably be in good shape. All rubber will harden over time, but as long as they are not crumbling they will not affect shifting, you might just get a bit more vibration transmitted to the shifter. The urethane ones would be fine, but I am not sure what problem they were solving - maybe ease of installation and subsequent replacement or maybe a more accurate shift action at the expense of vibration - otherwise the stock metal/rubber bushings look fit for purpose. I found these bushings a real pain to extract and install, if you have small hydraulic press then no problem, otherwise, I might do the urethane ones if I could do it over for the ease of install.

In 36 years, with inflation our cars should be valued like a GTO, so think ahead with these maintenance items!

 

Yes, that was my experience as well. Last winter I serviced the shifter assembly and had a look at the front bushing. I didn't bother to replace it, although I had a new bushing at hand - It was looking like new and had no play in it.

 

As I recall, when my shifter bushing was bad, the original part type was not available at that time(I could be mistaken).I think that's why the non-original version was available on Unobtaniums website. But if the original type is now available, I have no issue with the stock part.

 

I have to do this too and already have my seals from my good buddy @Verell . I have drained my fluids and I am about to pull the pans. I feel like in my previous readings I saw somewhere to start by shifting into 3rd gear (or a specific gear). Does that make sense to anybody? Perhaps that brings the connected shafts to the most optimal position or gives some type of baseline of where you started?

 

also good to reference Birdman's service guide for Changing the transaxle oil

 

Pick a gear. Take note.

Drop the gearbox pan, note the position of the shift finger thingie.

Use felt marker to put alignment marks on the two halves of the shifter shaft and measure the distance between the two marks.

Disconnect stuff.

Yank out the old shifter shaft.

Replace the seals.

Replace the shaft (use many curse words).

Reattach stuff and align shifter shafts based on felt marker marks.

Confirm shift finger thingie is in the right spot.