Holy cow, you've set quite the standard Allen! I'm gonna give it a shot! How did you clean the air intakes at the top of the rear end right behind the driver and passenger window? Did you remove them? I gotta tell you, I am obsessed with your results. What cleaning tools do you use to get into crevices and what not? What metal polish do you use? Are there any areas where you do not use the trinova, as in how heat resistant is it? Can you use it on the red valve covers for example? Sorry for all the questions but I am just so blown away. No wonder you won a Platino!
Another question. How did you get your ball polished wheels to shine like that? I have them on my 2009 and they don’t look that shiny. They have a plastic coating on them, so I’m unable to use metal polish. Sent from my iPad using FerrariChat.com mobile app
Thanks John! I find spending time cleaning the car to be therapeutic and takes me away from my hugely stressful job (slow to respond as work has been crushing me the last couple of days). Plus, the end results are pretty rewarding. For the high heat areas and engine metal parts I like Griots Engine Bay Detailer. It’s actually a lot like the Tri-Nova, just spray on and wipe off any excess. For the areas behind the engine panels I use the same process as the wheel wells. Simple Green, scrub any dirty spots with a brush or rag, dry, and apply Tri-Nova or the Griots Engine Bay Dressing. I’m going to clean behind the engine panels for the first time in three years when I do my annual next month so I’m curious to see how they’ve held up. For crevices I use everything from Q-tips to paint type brushes, depending on space. For metal polish I like Simichrome. Been using it for many years. Feel free to reach out at any time if you get stuck trying to get something clean and are having issues. I was lucky that the previous owner had them paint corrected and ceramic coated, so they were mostly like this when I bought the car. I have a few spots of crazing so I used some Griots polishing compound, which may have taken them up a notch. I think any paint polish followed by ceramic wax/coating should bring out more of a shine.
Can’t thank Allen and Sasha enough for letting me use their fantastic garage and helping oversee this project! I had a great time learning about and wrenching on the car together. For someone like me who is a novice, it turned out that despite a few tricky components, it wasn’t as bad as I anticipated. The 360 is definitely a “DIY- friendly” car. Looking forward to the next service! Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
I could not afford to take my car to the dealership. A Ferrari is no different than any car in my opinion. I have other cars and the Ferrari group is fantastic for info on repairing my car. Timing belt Exhaust cam variators transaxle heat exchanger- took more time to flush the cooling system and transaxle than replacing the heat exchanger!!!! All regular maintenance
Finished up my annual yesterday and thought I would post my sequence and intervals for those that might be interested. In aviation maintenance we use Sequence Control Charts to maximize efficiency and ensure no steps are missed. I took the time to analyze my previous sequence and make some changes to increase my efficiency. I think I could knock out an annual in one day minus any tasks like transmission mount bushing and valve cover gaskets, which I need to do next year. And cleaning everything. A couple random pics I took as I cleaned everything this year due to being caught in the rain a couple times this past year. One note on F1 flush and bleed. I realized I wasn’t getting as much F1 fluid out as I wanted after three flush cycles so I used a syringe and sucked out quite a bit more fluid, which resulted in almost a liter of new fluid in the system. That will be my new method going forward. Thanks to @colorfull for sanity checking my list and giving me a couple good recommendations I hadn’t thought of. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Since you've told me how you do it, I know how you do it That said, I don't know how you do it! Looks AMAZING
Wow what a great job! One thing that is great is all the technical data that is SHARED with the group. I was thinking about selling my 360 because I just did not drive it much. The local Coachella Valley FCA club has just exploded as far as things going on. I thank Frank for getting this rolling--
Since most of my 430’s history is on this thread I’m going to add my latest DIY effort. Big thanks to @LorenzoR for giving me a bunch of tips along the way, and regularly checking in on my progress over the three weekends it took to complete this work. I had oil leaking from the valve covers, wanted to upgrade exhaust manifolds, and needed to replace my transmission mount bushing as it was cracking (and after removing it was visibly sagging). I’ve included a few pics of the disassembly and reassembly. The biggest pains were removing and replacing the exhaust manifold nuts due to lack of access. I ended up with a nice collection of various 12mm wrenches that helped with that effort. Some notes: - Doing all this at one time was a good move. - Access to the valve covers was made much easier with the engine/gearbox frame removed, which had to be removed for the transmission mount replacement anyway. If I were only doing the valve cover gaskets I would remove the frame. - The Hill Engineering transmission mount bushing removal tool was awesome and made that job fairly straightforward. - I replaced my gearbox vent valve while it was accessible. - I used a thin line of 1211 silicone gasket on the valve covers, which helped hold the gaskets in place when I installed them and should help with longevity. It was clear where the oil was seeping over the old gaskets. - I ended up having to replace my cam variator solenoids due to oil in the connectors (all 4) and went with the Maserati solenoids, which actually have Ferrari stamped on them. The only difference is the wire length. I’ve posted a photo to show the difference. - The wire harness tape in the engine bay was degraded due to age/heat, so I ended up removing all the old brittle tape and rewrapping with the Tessa tape. This really cleaned up the wiring harnesses. - Realigning the exhaust was a pain. I ordered and used all new hardware, which I felt was prudent at 15 years and almost 26K miles. - Did a lot of cleaning while I had access to areas that aren’t normally accessible. I keep my 430 pretty clean, but behind some of the panels was a layer of dust that had me looking like Pigpen at the end of every day. - My heat shield over the F1 actuator wasn’t fully installed by the tech that did previous work in that area, and was starting to disintegrate, so I added some extra heat shielding (before and after pics below), and made sure it was properly installed. One of my airbox inlet boot’s clamps wasn’t properly installed, so that was fixed also. Happy to answer any questions. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login All back together, with no check engine light or leaks. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks for the kind comments! It’s nice to be able to take your time and make sure everything’s just right. I will say that each of these tasks has some stress (am I going to break something by over torquing or cross threading something, did I forget anything along the way, is that transmission mount bushing really in there that tight, etc.) but having a workshop manual, a laptop, a great deal of patience, and double checking everything pays off. Plus working at the top front of the engine on a coupe requires long arms and there are a number of fasteners that you’re working on by feel as you can’t see them. Additionally my hands and wrists are all scraped up due to the tight confines. Worth it though.
Wow just discovered this thread and I love it. I have been working on cars since I was 19, at the time I could afford a junker but could not afford to pay someone to fix it so had to learn myself. Now, like many on this thread, it is a big stress reliever and a place I can let my OCD run unchecked. Quick question for the group. I am getting ready to replace rear sway bar links and bushings. Looking at the diagrams it seems that there are two different bushing parts, 170716 and 170717. Anyone knows if I need two of each (a set per side)? Any tips welcome!
Welcome to the club Dreamgiver! I haven’t taken apart the rear sway bar but the diagrams show one of each bushing. The workshop manual doesn’t provide much in the way of details either.
I haven't verified the part numbers in your thread, but I can confirm that the rear bushes are different on each side.
Thanks guys. I was just able to confirm from Ricambi that 170716 is used on the right side and 170717 is used on the left side, so just one per side. Got the parts ordered and will tackle it during the winter hibernation. On a different note I went for a nice drive over the weekend and noticed this oil sweat on the engine. Having a hard time locating that port in the middle of the stain on the engine part diagrams Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks. Valve cover gasket was done 2 years ago under previous ownership, not sure if they did the variators. It looks like it is leaking from around that port but I am not sure what it is.
That’s where the cam variator solenoid wiring goes through the valve cover. I’ve attached pics that show the wiring. The orange ring is the seal on the back side of that clip. I would recommend checking the connector to see if you have oil in the connector, which would indicate that you need to change the variator solenoids. Image Unavailable, Please Login
