500 miles to a quart of oil used. What would you do?

The factory put synthetic in them. Since 1986 I have never used anything else in literally hundreds of them. No no need to go back to ancient motor oil.

 

Re vacuum in the crankcase....

Some years back a common performance mod on competition engines was to install a crankcase evacuation system. This consisted of a nozzle installed in each header collector. The nozzle was at a 45 degree angle to the exhaust flow and was connected via hose to the engine's crankcase. This could generate considerable crankcase vacuum - sufficient so that when you shut the engine off you would hear hissing for a few seconds as the crankcase came up to atmospheric pressure.

Dyno tests that we performed sometimes saw 30+HP on a big block engine with no other change. I have not been active in that work for a few years now so don't know if it's still commonly done. It may be that clean-air type regs have outlawed it for competition or there may now be better ways though if there are, I doubt they are as simple! In any case, as has been stated, vacuum in the crankcase can definitely increase power.

 

Dry sump engines do a wonderful job of that. The scavange pump is sucking out twice what it is pumping in. I have seen dry sump engines with large pieces of valve cover gasket missing that did not lose a drop of oil.

Some BMW engines have so much manifold vacuum to the crank case a bad crankshaft seal manifests itself as a vacuum leak.

 

I would just add a quart every 500 miles and forget about it.

Doug

 

Ted Rutland parted out a lot of cars that had that type of owner.

 

I still say, just for an experiment, get rid of the syn oil and use the 20 /50 . I would love to hear the results.

G

 

Out of 7000+ 328s this one uses oil because of synthetic oil? Whatever. I'd laugh but its too dumb.

 

Gino - any advice you have for Brian regarding the 328 would be much appreciated.

 

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Apparently Abraham Lincoln said the same thing about the internet.

 

I admit I am not about originality. However if the original serves a purpose or meets a spec that replacements / modern parts can't I will go back to original. It looks like modern options are more serviceable. Would it make sense to upgrade? Is hose fitment the only issue or is there some type of throughput number the unit has to achieve?

It seems like we have to use the force, cut it open or use a bore scope (haha i have one) to see if these are still good. I am so glad I just pulled the starter and rear suspension - this is an easy get and no way I am passing up a look to whats inside.

Does coolant run through ours to heat it? It looks like it drains so it is not just a catch can... Or is it oil in, out the bottom and vapor out the top?

All these modern cars get expensive separators as an upgrade but most are running turbo motors. Glad I read this. Now my mind is spinning.

 

Mobil 1 recently came out with a genuine 5w/50 synthetic called 'FS X2 5w-50'. It's been years or decades (?) since we've seen a 5/50 right. Of course some of the oil nuts have already had it analyzed and it contains a bit more ZDDP than their 15/50 synthetic, which is already pretty good stuff. Appears to be the the same Group III base stock though. Not PAO group 4 which Motul, Redline etc use

AND wait there's more. Mobil 1 made a second 5w 50 (called 'Supercar 5w 50) specifically for the new flat plane Corvette V8 that keeps blowing up regardless, but that's a different conversation. Perhaps Brian and I share the sentiment that we'd laugh at them but it's too dumb it's just plain sad.

Running non synthetic may mask the oil burning issue a lower oil temps, but at higher (intended operating temp) oil temps the issue will be the same or worse and the engine just isn't as well protected with non synt.

 

I can only talk about the results with the oil I have been using. I dont go against the pros on here. I have always thought that since the 328s motor compartment gets really hot in the summer here in So Cal, that a thicker viscosity oil would not break down as fast. This being the reason for me using the 20 / 50 weight. The only time Mobile one was introduced, my car burned through at least a quart in less than 1000 miles, which had never happened before. This was in 2012. Since I have always used mineral oil, maybe it leaked through some of the gaskets as well. Cant there be a slight chance of not burning as much oil if the owner gives the thicker non syn oil at least one try ? Hes going through the oil quite fast anyhow, what can it hurt ? Then again, a quart every 500 miles is a big problem in my estimation. One would think the car was smoking out the exhaust a lot, but his car is not , and no leaking all over the pavement either. As far as engine protection is concerned, oil changes at 2500 to 3000 miles for the 328 when using mineral oil , I believe is more protection than the motor will ever need .

G

 

Im not trying to dis anyone, Im just throwing the experience with my car out there.

G

 

I would love for F chat to make a list of all 328 owners who are active on here, and their current mileage , what kind and how much if any oil their cars are burning, and at what frequency. We can update the list every 3 years or so. I think it would be very insightful.

G

 

Mobil 1 0W40 since I bought my '89 328 in '08. Uses a quart in around 3k miles. I change the oil every, well, er, uh, hmm...

Let's just say I change the oil 'periodically'!

 

The January 2018 edition of Roundel magazine (the magazine of the BMW Car Club of America) featured a lengthy interview with Ryan Stark who is the owner of Blackstone Labs. Blackstone is one of the major oil testing laboratories in the country. A major conclusion of the article was that all modern oils are excellent. To that point, when asked what oil he uses in his vehicles, Mr. Stark replied, "Whatever is on sale."

 

How is the vapor separator serviced?
Just remove it and clean it with a solvent?

 

And how do you know if you are cleaning an empty can in which all the baffles have rusted away?

 

I guess just by a new one now that its been this long.

 

Al Gore said he was full of it.

 

Usually by the time the baffles are all gone there are holes in the body. That one is kind of unusual.

It would be great if someone made them of stainless but considering the cars are 40+ years old maybe over kill.

 

Not very often do I here of an oil consumption problem on a 4 valve 308 or 328. That engine is an absoulty fantastic little unit.

As Brain stated. Have the customer come in..you personally set the oil level and record the milage. Have the customer return on the 1/4's to have the level checked by you..record the milage and level each time. Maybe even try a change of oil brand and weight..just some ideas.

We did this with the VW guys when they are trying to get warranty on thier engines. They had a massive oil consumption issue.

 

So, tell me, Oh Great One, what would cause the demise of vehicle that has oil added every 500 miles? As long as it is added.

Oil either leaks, or it is burned.

if it leaks and is replenished, why would the car expire?

if it is burned, the car probably needs an overhaul anyway, but how would replenishing burned oil regularly cause it to need being "parted out?"

500 mile / qt oil consumption was normal usage on (even new) 1950's, 1960s cars. owners just checked oil regularly and added oil and the cars ran for 100K miles or more.

I suppose if you have new generation owners who expects the oil level to remain the same after 5K miles, like is common on new modern tight tolerance cars and they never check the oil, yes, I suppose the car would have motor problems and go to the scrappers. Are you suggesting F-Car owners are idiots who never check their oil?

Or, i suppose you could freak out about 500mi/qt oil usage at $5/qt and then spend $30K at some F-Car mechanic getting you oil usage fixed. Hmmm. Whats the payout mileage on $10/1000 miles vs $30K rebuild?

Lets do some quick math: $10/1000 miles for oil, is $500 oil added for 50,000 miles of driving....



Doug

 

"500 mile / qt oil consumption was normal usage on (even new) 1950's, 1960s cars. owners just checked oil regularly and added oil and the cars ran for 100K miles or more."

I agree with the fact that oil was routinely checked/added as necessary but I don't agree with the 500 mile statement. Even in the muscle car era a quart of oil in 500 miles was considered pretty bad. For that matter, Mopar specified that the 426 Hemi, a heavily detuned race motor, had an "acceptable" oil consumption of a quart in 600 miles. That was the worst "factory acceptable" oil consumption I'm aware of for a US street engine. Having owned two street Hemis (wish I still did but who knew?), the actual consumption was a quart in around 1200 miles. These were engines 3x the displacement of a 3x8 and with what I assume (hope) were much looser clearances than those of a Ferrari motor. IOW, a quart in 500 miles for a 189 CID engine is pretty abysmal to my mind and if the oil isn't on the ground I can't see how it wouldn't be leaving a trail of blue-white smoke everywhere it went.